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I'm not familiar with this filter but it's possible there is a leaking seal that is sucking in air, have you greased the seals at all?

Is it the school holidays

If you can take the wood out, dry the area and use a cyanoacrylate super glue, otherwise you will have to use fishing line, just ensure the rhizome gets plenty of water flow.

As above really, excellent water quality, good diet and it should recover just fine.

Possible - but very difficult to replicate - take a read of Jeremy Gay's article on Decembers issue of practical fish keeping.

Nutrient rich substrates are beneficial but not a necessity, your lighting will be the driving factor in what you can or can't keep. Provided it isn't too intense - you should be able to grow the following without any need for additional lighting or nutrition: Cryptocorynes Anubias Echinodorus...

I wouldn't keep fish in a tank that small, it's big enough for only shrimp and snails in my opinion.

The plants you have should grow wel under the lighting supplied with the super fish 40 - it can take up to 3 weeks for plants to show any changes in their appearance once their environment changes, id leave them be and they should pick up without any need for fertilising.

Run an air stone under the eggs to prevent fungus.

I'd either use ammonia or add mature media, the fish food method is terrible as there's no real way to dose the correct amount to give you the ammonia concentration required, if using mature media, add the fish and mature media together - test your water parameters daily, things should be good...

Of course it works, but personally I'd rather use clay cat litter for the same results at a fraction of the price. Of course you could just use an inert substrate - aquatic plants will readily take nutrients from the water column anyway, the old 'root feeders' thing is a bit of an old wives...

Whether or not they come from a cycled tank isn't really relevant as long as they're healthy, a lot of aquarium plants are grown hydroponically out of water as it is cheaper and easier to do so. Most mail order companies grow them this way.

They will be fine, the copper is present in very trace amounts, it's the same with all plant fertilisers, I use them with inverts with no problems

My money would be on a CO2 deficiency, some of these LED outfits are very powerful in terms of light output. As others have already stated knowing more about your water chemistry will help. What plant species are you trying to grow?

T5 and t8 are not interchangeable, specialist planted tubes are a rip off, it's true that they have peaks in the red and blue spectrum but the real life difference they make on aquatic plants doesn't justify their high price point (tried and tested amongst the planted community) you can replace...

Hello - I have a Lido 200 - it's a great tank as it is high volume and has a relatively small footprint. As far as stocking goes the rules of thumb don't always work as a 15cm fish doesn't produce the same amount of waste as 5x 3cm fish. generally good tank mates for neon or cardinal tetras are...

Hello I will get round to adding photos at some stage but just a quick stock list update I now have: 6 juvenile angel fish (hoping to form a pair and remove the rest) A pair of Apistogramma Cacatuoides who have spawned three times since I added them last week A pair of keyhole cichlids who...

Put a Matt of moss down and they should spawn over that, when I had my group spawn a few years back the eggs/fry were always eaten by the parents, I've heard of many putting wire mesh over the bottom of the tank that allows the eggs to drop through and save them from predation.

If it still works fine I'd keep it till it breaks! I have a 20 year old Eheim that is still going strong.

Can you take a water sample to your local fish store? Before drawing any conclusions the best course of action would be to ensure your water chemistry is as it should be.

Personally I'd use coral sand as it will help buffer the pH by raising the mineral and carbonate hardness of the water. Fish always look better against a dark substrate though.

Did you test your water parameters with a test kit? Also what tank mates?

Water conditioners can cause wildly inaccurate readings on nitrate kits, I'd try testing a day after you add new water and see if there is a difference.

Bardills is pretty good, I get most of my stuff from there. Behind bardills is Japanese water gardens - they stock most bread and butter fish and aren't too expensive. Maidenhead aquatics at trowell is excellent but a bit on the expensive side. If you can get to pinxton then Wharf Aquatics is...

You could use a liquid carbon additive as an alternative to CO2, it is by no means as good but is better than nothing- given you have a rio 125 im going to assume you have the dual T5 light fixture which is quite a high output light unit. Without any co2 additive you will struggle to grow plants.

Hello - welcome to the forum, I am from Draycott in Derby so I know some decent local fish shops - let me know if you need any help

A single dwarf puffer would be fine, you may get away with two provided the tank is densely planted/harscaped and has excellent filtration and very frequent water changes.

The only problem I see is that the temperatures required to keep discus healthy (28-32oC) is at the very top end of what the rummy nose tetras will tolerate, personally I'd choose a different species. Same goes for the BN plecos but I have heard of them being kept up to 30oC but it's not...

It's just diatoms- common in newly setup tanks, completely harmless.

Vaseline the back of the tank, apply background and iron out air bubbles with a debit card. Edit: on the external face I should add!

Yes and keep the piping as short as possible

having the filter closer to the outlet is best, it will give you the best flow rate as the impeller isn't fighting as much water resistance and gravity.

As above - not only are they a good hiding place for fry, plant roots harbour micro fauna which shrimp and fry can feed on.

You're correct but research has shown that levels of 80+ppm have little long term effects on many freshwater species (I've been searching for weeks for the paper I read as I'd quoted some info from it in another thread but I can't find it online anywhere) obviously some species and juvenile fish...

Personally I wouldn't worry about your nitrate level, I wouldn't call it high personally, you could add fast growing stem plants but again if you have too much light they will be starved of co2 and stand to only make the problem worse, Hygrophila polysperma is a favourite of mine, it grows very...

Honey Gourami's are a nice alternative, the males are stunning when they colour up.

The only thing you can do in this instance is reduce your photoperiod. I wouldn't use algaecides for controlling algae personally.

Just a quick update, HC Removed and now everything is really starting to grow after the settling in period. Current inhabitants: 30 cherry shrimp 4 Alamo shrimp 12 red eye tetra 6 dwarf neon rainbows