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If it was 'beeter' it would only have one 't'. :)

They're in the genus Dendrobaena. In the UK they're usually called Compost Worms (Google Compost Worm). Any reddish/pinkish worms you find in the garden are these. Earthworms are greyish. They're great fish food but I wouldn't feed many at all to koi or goldfish, as they're quite high in...

I would never use a product called "general cure". It may be a good product, but the name suggests it's anything but.

I wasn't aware the API kit now has a table. Is it a unit conversion table? I too, have never owned a TDS meter. Some very soft water fish require a minimal TDS, but I've never really kept any of them. People like @GaryE, who has kept a lot of those fish, would need one.

So it does, my mistake. But I'm sure with your knowledge and experience that you must be aware of many more reasons why a fish would not eat, other than internal bacterial or protozoan infections. For one thing it's a very common symptom of a heavy worm infestation.

So people can now search for BBS, TDS, MTS, Red eyed tetras, red tailed sharks, and a host of other very popular fish. It seems like it's a few years late, but nice afterthought. Well done. Can they search for pH, GH and KH yet?

This is probably intestinal roundworms. Flubendazole will kill tapeworms, but not roundworms. Since you're in the UK, the best course of action would be a full course of Sterazin. It's a 10 day course.

That 0.2 ammonia is deadly at pH 7.5 If you had followed their instructions and added fish, those fish would be dying. Always test first and never rely on a manufacturer's claims. They care about profit, not fish, and not you.

MaloK has it the wrong way round. GH measures only dissolved magnesium and calcium, because these are the main ions that cause hardness. TDS measures the total dissolved solids, which is magnesium, calcium and everything else. TDS therefore will always be higher than GH.

The drops are the same, whatever the GH. 1 drop = 1dGH = 18ppm (approx). 200ppm is about 11dGH, so your test will change colour with the 11th or 12th drop.

This is about 180 gallons UK, 217 gallons US. That's about 800 litres. Spray bars work best when disturbing the surface from just below the surface. That would give you two benefits, filtration and aeration. If you go the airstone route you'll need quite a vigorous one. As has been said, it's...

I think Lucy is referring to the whiteish patch on the black area of the body, not the fin.

You really need one of these compost-worm species for a worm farm, because they eat dead and decaying plant matter (ie kitchen scraps). The true earthworms tend to just eat soil.

You don't need to stock within 48 hours, you just need to add a source of ammonia within 48 hours. The bacteria just need ammonia and nitrite. They don't care where it came from. I would never add livestock without testing the filter first.

They all do, as far as I know. I use the API.

These are not scaleless fish, but their electrical systems mean they're a very different kettle o' fish when it comes to medications. They react badly to most.

I had that on my last one. Trouble is you can't treat it because they can't handle medications. A guy at Waterlife assured me Protozin would work but it didn't, and probably just made it worse, imo. I stopped keeping them after that.

They'll be hungry now, just don't overfeed.

MIne spawned successfully in GH 7-8, KH 2. (I'm still using the same water, but I still can't tell you the TDS). They were the form that was being farmed in Singapore in the 1970s. I've kept them since but no fry were made. Anton's book (The Cichlid Fishes of Western Africa) says pH needs to...

They're from soft water. Seriously Fish seems to suggest they'll also thrive in hard water, but I'm not sure if I believe that. Hopefully @GaryE can enlighten us both here. He's already said they wouldn't like Turkana hardness...

If you like those four species equally, I personally would do a single species tank with a handful of thomasi, with no other cichlids. My opinion of thomasi based on my own experience is that they're one of the most peaceful cichlids on the planet. I was actually shocked when I discovered they...

This is one reason why I use my phone rather than a computer. Malware doesn't seem to have reached phones yet in a big way.

Someone on the news said every affected system will need to be physically rebooted, which apparently will take years. Is that true?

If the 48 is 13 wide, I'd go for the 36. If it's 20 wide I'd go for the 48. Turkana jewels need hard water. I would not keep them with A. thomasi. The other choices I can't really help you with.

More info needed. What kind of African Cichlids? What would the two footprints be?

Has Guppies + Betta ever worked? I doubt it. You need to do option 4... Remove either the Betta or the Guppies.

I'd say not long because she looks to be squared off at the front. You need to get her out of that death trap asap. Set her free to go hide in the plants.

I would keep anything Ctenopoma-y. I've kept kingsleyi and they are an absolute joy. Beautiful fish, endearing personality. And they seem very intelligent.

This is what it's all about. Tiny little living jewels, in little remote waters, just being ridiculously colourful for the sake of it. It's why I fell in love with fish. The ottogartneri woke up my sweet tooth, love those colours. The escherichi reminds me of zebra danios.

I have a cat drinking fountain bowl thing with a tiny pump that's about 2" big. Maybe hide something like that to stop it settling?

Phone. I don't have a computer. I have a laptop somewhere but it probably died of boredom a long time ago.

The dad will also have a say in how they look. And they can store sperm for months so if you haven't had them long the dad may have made his contribution before you got them. emeraldking knows all about the genetics. I don't.

I don't adjust my water but I do filter it all through PolyFilter before it goes near fish. I use a garden water butt (indoors). I pump the water into the tank, refill the butt from the tap, then it sits for a week with a small internal filter full of PF. Sat there for a week, it does need to...

I haven't really delved into all these Seachem products, but they do a Lake Cichlid buffer, American Cichlid buffer, a Malawi buffer, a Tanganyika buffer... and a few more. They're basically just adding GH and KH and other trace minerals, in different proportions. Storing water with limestone...

The safe way is always to adjust the water before it goes into the tank. Seachem make quite a large range of remineralising salts, mostly for making water hard enough for the African Rift Lake Cichlids. You could draw your tapwater into a container, mix in one of these products, then add the...

They're platies. Guppies are colourless when they're born.

I usually don't get much debris but I clean out the impeller almost every time, because they can usually do with a clean after a few months. I do that on kind of a 'why not, while I'm here' basis.

If a filter is flowing well it doesn't need to be cleaned. Whatever amount of mulm that collects within it is just the solid end product of nitrification, and gets colonised by the bacteria (it increases the surface area available to them). I've kept mostly biggish fish in my time, and I've...

I never switch filters off for water changes or feeding. I always have the intake just below half-way up the tank. That way far less solids go into the filter to block it (a prefilter sponge also helps) and I can do a 50% without switching it off.

First thing to do is get it back in the tank asap. The additional stress of being in a bowl is not helping. Keep the water very good (0 ammonia and nitrite, nitrates as low as possible) and it should be fine. What did you use to medicate the sores? And yes, keep the light off.