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Price seems about right. Not a super common fish. If you are one of the fortunate few that doesn't have nitrates in your source water, and do regular water changes, feed properly, etc, then a very low reading is good. One thing though, make sure you following the directions on the nitrate test...

I always add schooling species in groups of at least 6. Never had a problem, as most tetras, danios, etc are small fish, so its not like adding say 6 4" cichlids at one time.

T5 tubes are shorter in length than T8-12's.

Was the tank new when you bought it? If so it should be under warranty, and the store should swap it out.

I would start with one and see how it works. I use two 12,000 lph wave pumps in my 400 ltr, on pointed toward the surface, one pointed straight across the center.

Can you post a pic of said fish? There are a couple of fish that go by that name.

Agreed, usually there isn't enough flow in aquariums. I either run multiple filters and a powerhead, or a single filter and a couple of powerheads. So I would add the aquaclear 30, you can always adjust the flow from the filters, if you find it to be a little too much.

I also agree with fluttermouth. Something with a base of 30-36" x 12" is a good size beginners aquarium.

The best way to keep it stable, is prepare the water a few days prior to your water change. This will keep the pH up, but stable.

Let them completely dry out then soak them. It's best to start with dry wood, that way all the sap and all is out of it.

No picture...

Are those java fern? If so they need to be attached to a rock or the wood when you find it. They will rot and die if planted in the substrate. The best thing I've found to use is black or green cotton thread. Just wrap it loosely around the roots and the rock/wood to hold the plant in place...

Uncured silicone will kill your fish. The only safe option is one of the underwater epoxies. Although I've used Plumbers epoxy in the past, I now only use stuff that says safe for aquariums.

I feed all of the above, except freeze dried and holiday tabs. Brand wise its a lot of Aqueon flake and pellets and Hikari pellets. I feed frozen bloodworms, mysis, brine shrimp, glassworms and squid. Live foods are blackworms, meal worms, crickets and dwarf red earthworms. Veggies are the...

As long as the Betta isn't bite sized, she should be just fine. Add a couple of more female balloon mollies, they are schooling fish by nature. I disagree with cf about the temp, although it is at the high end of your inhabitants tolerances. I would lower it but only to 78, 76 is just to low...

Did you use sand for your substrate? Sometimes if its not over rinsed, a scum will develop at the surface in a dead/low flow spot. Just clean it off with a paper towel.

Looks great! :good:

Has anything changed, temp going up or a different food being fed? Could he have just hit maturity?

You're most welcome.

Wills already said some sound advice. All I can offer is maybe ditch the internal for a hob or canister,depending on tank size. I feel for your loss. Good luck.

I can't tell what it is, but I've always gone with, if I didn't add it, it shouldn't be in there. The only exception being acro crabs. I usually remove them and add them to the refugium or just to the sump. Thy do help clean up scraps that make it in.

I can't help you with the equivalent part, but I do know the light is more focused and the tube should be as close to the length of the tank as possible.

I agree with the sand. Depth isn't that important, unless you have plants or fish that like to bury. Then you will need approximately 2-3".

Welcome to the board! Sometimes you get a ram or other dwarf cichlid, that just has that cichlid attitude. As long as its just chasing and not any real damage, I wouldn't worry about it.

Never seen it before myself. Although, I have seen fish pass frozen food, such as bloodworms, that looked like a clear tube. Angels generally lay one egg at a time and there's no "jelly" around them...

Glad to see you started this thread. I'm happily following along.

Umm, yeah, need the pix.

I also like option #2.

Dwarf cichlids tend to do best with plants. At 1 wpg swords, cryptocoryne, anubias, moss and java fern will all do well. Or plastic, if you prefer, the fish don't care. A 200 gph would be all you'd need. I would use a maxi-jet 600.

Personally I'd go with the l.e.d.'s. A friend of mine sales those at his shop, and over the freshwater tanks look really good.

Looking good. I think that's the perfect amount of rock. Once you get some wood and plants in there it will look very full. I have small powerheads in most of my aquariums, the added circulation adds more oxygen and keeps detritus stirred up for the filter to remove.

I think your planned moves are the best. As for other occupants, maybe a group of hatchetfish in the 200, but that's about all I can think of right now.

I have to disagree. There's a lot of research stating that cyst can lay dormant up to 30 days without hatching. There's no fish so raising the temp to speed up the life cycle will not hurt, and adding the meds won't hurt either. There are virulent strains of ich now, due to people not treating...

Angelfish would be nice, or a pair of keyhole cichlids, not the most colorful, but lots of personality and very gentle. As for plants there is a huge variety of sword plants in different colors and leaf shape.

Before replacing the rocks, take a glass of tap water and test it. Then test again 24 hrs later adding an airstone will speed the process up. The test is to see if you have excess CO2 in the water. CO2 lowers pH, as it leaves the water the buffers in the water will raise the pH.

Rearranging the tank decor just after adding the new fish will break up any territories that might be established. This will give the new fish a better chance of carving out there own little spot.

I go by foot print not gallons. My only concern with your selection is the sajica and red point, if you're not 100% positive of them being the same sex they may hybridize.

Letting your plants dry in the sun works. When I worked at a lfs we would soak them in a bucket of water with a cup of bleach. Then we would rinse them well, and soak them in fresh water with an overdose of dechlorinator. You can also reduce the light to just a few hours in the evening, just...

The snails definitely. Each will eat a snail a day and can be left permanently in the tank. They don't seem to breed readily, but if they do, they are easy to sale. I do recommend however, removing as many by hand as possible to drastically reduce the population of the pest snails first.

Sorry for your loss. Finish the medicine part of the treatment, so you don't develop a strain of ich that immune to the medication. Then leave the tank empty for 30 days at 84 deg F. This will kill any free living parasites and the cyst will hatch and die without a host. To keep the tank...