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I agree with Byron. The number of fish you are discussing here won't be an issue in a 29 gallon, especially one that's turning over nearly 3 ppm ammonia in 24 hours. Those fish won't create that much ammonia.

Murky green color water is normally a sign of 'green algae' growth - likely phytoplankton. Take a sample of the water. If the water is green, then its phytoplankton. If the water is clear, then its green dust algae. Algae is caused from imbalance between: light, CO2, and nutrients...

The good news is that ammonia at low pH is far less dangerous... Congrats on the cycle being complete. Adding a few extra plants can help as well, as the plants can use ammonia directly from the water, and that means less nitrate build-up.

Ironically, the size of the tank doesn't change the duration of the cycle. Its all about the concentrations... so you add more ammonia to a big tank, but you also add more bacteria (theoretically) when you add more water (as there's a trace in there) and there's more surface area for them to...

Yup. When you add too much ammonia, it builds up the nitrites pretty quick and then takes longer for it to process it all back down to zero. I'd do a confirmation dose on the 10 G. I'd add 3ppm ammonia and then test in 24 hours. But, you are likely good. But, if you aren't getting fish...

The betta probably only needs 1ppm.

You want to do the water change. High nitrite levels will encourage the wrong bacteria. So, I'd just do a complete reset of the cycle... change all the water out, and add ammonia to 3ppm. Test in 24 hours and you'll get a better sense of where you are in the process. You might be surprised...

The danger is sometines we ttinker too much. Sometimes you need to just remain patient and do nothing, letting nature takes its course as they say. Regarding plants and ammonia. Its true that some plants would suffer, especially at higher concentrations, but others will be more than fine...

What are you doing when you get that reading at 0.25 ppm nitrite? Are you dosing ammonia again immediately? If you are... stop. Day 1: Dose ammonia to 3 ppm. Day 2: Test ammonia and nitrite. If they are BOTH zero after 24 hours, you are cycled. Stop here. You can add more ammonia to...

I assume there are some typos in this post, but wanted to address a few points. 1 - it is valuable to test pH during a cycle, because when the pH drops, that indicates that you've reached the capacity of the buffering ability of the water, and a pH crash will stall a cycle. A water change to...

Exactly. The clean water is like the band-aid, and the treatment is the 'healing ointment'... its not always necessary, but its something that mollies in particular can very easily handle. Tetras are more sensitive to that sort of treatment.

I am going to disagree with you here, Colin. The bath and/or dip has a therapeutic effect. Agreed there is a bit of stress involved in the catching for the treatment. As for the advice to just 'add a heap of salt to the tank', I'd suggest that that is some very poor advice for a new...

Clean water is the best thing.... the cleaner the better. If the one eye is looking better again, stick with the treatment we've already discussed. Yes, do the 50% water changes to keep the water as pristine as possible. The water can't be too clean for the fish.

Just a reminder for any giving advice for this last member... its a 10 gallon tank. Having a lot of fish in a small container can lead to a lot of problems, especially for a new fishkeeper. Experienced fishkeepers can 'bend' rules and get away with it, knowing how to cope with the extra...

If its both eyes, its likely disease related... Or... its possible to be double wounds, but that's less likely. That means its a possible bacterial infection and a QT would be recommended for this one fish. Check the water parameters, make sure the pH is steady, the ammonia is zero, the...

I wouldn't worry about 'rinsing' her off before putting her back in the tank. Just netting her out of the main tank, putting her into the salt bath and then back is going to be stressful enough. Adding an extra step will just make it worse. Any of the salt that gets transferred to the main...

Yes. As pointed out, the directions on the box are not related to a therapeutic fish bath. Those directions are only relevant for full time use in the main tank, and should not be used. Salt is a treatment option for freshwater fish, but in my opinion, should never be used full-time.

No. That's not correct. I would say, that the temp match warning is a good one @Kelly Preussner . The temp needs to be within about a degree... and make sure the salt is dissolved completely in the container BEFORE adding the fish. Epsom salt is a good option as well... again, make sure...

There's two different concentrations being discussed... that's why there are two different concentrations. 1 - concentration for a TREATMENT BATH - that's the one in the linked articles. That is meant for a BRIEF (30 min) time as a special treatment for the fish. this is HIGHER than normal...

Welcome to the forum. The bulging eye could be one of 3 things. It could be an infection... or it could be a damaged eye due to hitting some material in the tank, or a wound from an altercation with a tankmate. So... how do we deal with this. First, the pH is not 'high' for these fish, with...

I'm more partial to https://www.seriouslyfish.com/species/corydoras-habrosus from the dwarf cories groups... They are a little more 'true' to the corydoras behavior. The other dwarf cories species are more mid-water swimmers than the others. So... give me the salt and peppers... (Note: Not...

Albinos come in a variety of other species as well, but in the aquarium trade, its primarily those two. And I agree with seangee... 6 is better.

Indeed, pandas are a little smaller... which would be better in the small tank. Albino cories aren't a specific species though. They generally are going to be either paleatus or aeneus. Both would be fine without the addition of aragonite in the filter, but if it makes you feel better, you...

It wouldn't be nearly as frequently as that. And you'll be changing the water every week anyway once you have the fish in tank, so all will be fine. Which species of corydoras are you planning on? Most likely, the aragonite will be unnecessary.

You didn't kill the cycle. No worries. So, what happened was that you had a pH crash, due to the water losing its buffering ability. Not a big deal. It stinks a bit, but its not anything more than a hiccup. I would have advised against the addition of the baking soda, as this creates a...

I see. So, I think the product name is what confused me. Start Right is from Jungle, and that's just a water conditioner for chlorine, etc. API Quick Start is their nitrification bacterial starter. Anyway, we are losing the cycle now... Where is your tank in terms of the cycle now?

That's a different question. I was merely pointing out that it wasn't 'luck' that finfayce didn't have an issue while doing that. Yes, used filter media is the top choice for starting a new tank. However, bottled bacteria is an alternative. And using old filter media can lead to...

Start Right is a dechlorinator product. It removes the chlorine and heavy metals from the tap water. It doesn't do anything with the bio-filter. It is also a bit of a myth that rinsing the filter in tap water will kill the biofilter as well. The beneficial bacteria live inside a biofilm...

If the tannins bother you - it will make the water look like a fairly dilute tea... the more tannins, the darker the tea coloration - you can remove the tannins by putting carbon in the filter. The carbon will adsorb the tannins. I don't recommend it, as I like the look of tannins, and...

Guppies, platies, and all livebearers in general, do NOT eat plants. They do eat microfauna and bits of algae that grows on the plants. They are gluttons and are constantly grazing. That's their role as omnivores. They are constantly on the look out for food, and live plants provide a...

Adding either of the two products I mentioned will not cause a problem to your tank... though for max effectiveness, I'd suggest emptying the water out of that tank, including the Stability that you've added... and all of the ammonia-laden water. These products work best with LOW ammonia...

https://www.fishforums.net/threads/cycling-your-new-fresh-water-tank-read-this-first.421488/ This thread likely will answer all your cycling questions. If not, feel free to ask more. We love to help with this.

Yes, cories are sand lovers! On the 'yellow and blue' cichlids... I believe you are describing Africans. I believe the yellow ones you are thinking of are the "Yellow Lab" fish... Labidochromi caeruleus. And the blue are likely "Electric Blue Hap"... Sciaenochromis Fryeri Its also...

I agree with Abbeys Dad, but I'd recommend confirming the similar water by testing rather than assuming. For a variety of reasons, each tank is unique, so checking is always a good idea, especially for temp. Also... regarding the cichlids... all the fish you've already mentioned are soft...

A few clarifying questions and then a general piece of advice. How much ammonia are you dosing with your fishless cycle (in ppm)? How many live plants are in your tank? Light, etc.? What is your substrate? Did you transfer any media from the older tank to this one? Finally, Stability is not...

This has run its course.

If you are not planning to keep the smaller tank going with fish, or are moving ALL the fish over to the bigger tank, I'd suggest moving ALL the filter media from the small tank into the large tank. You can squeeze them into the bigger tank if you wish... getting a bit of mulm in the bottom of...

Always an enjoyable time looking through your planted tank threads.

Yes, you are getting closer... but, you need to add ammonia periodically to provide food for the bacteria. http://www.fishforums.net/threads/cycling-your-new-fresh-water-tank-read-this-first.421488/ This how-to will give you a better sense for things. But, not knowing your routine, its hard...

No filter comes pre-cycled. They all need to go through a process. Yes, this filter, as with any other should be done the same way. A filter can be 'cloned' if there is a tank with existing filter media and then the existing media can be used to either greatly reduce the process or to...