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You are setting a difficult goal. Most fish suited to this size tank are going to be shoaling fish, and that means a decent number or they will not be in good health. As for the non-shoaling fish that might work, there will likely be issues with each species that need to be addressed. I have...

Light intensity is a main factor, and nutrients to balance. You have primarily stem plants, which need brighter light because they are fast growers, and there is evidence the light may not be that intense because the lower leaves of the stem plants are dying off. And this is almost always...

I see no reason why the cories and a pair of cichlids can't be OK, along with the cardinals and rummynose. But it is confusing, especially 37 pages of posts.

The first thing is numbers, and in this sized tank a group of 15 cories will be better adjusted, healthier, and less stressed. The more the merrier, in other words. This is crucial to fish health. He can have all one species if he wants. The three groups of five was one suggestion if he...

I have always had smallish fish, and a 4-foot or 5-foot tank holding a couple hundred is indeed a sight. Some are "nano" but many are probably not technically, but still small. What are your water parameters, especially GH and pH of the source water? And what are the dimensions, length and width.

Ammonia/ammonium uptake by plants is continual, 24/7, day and night. They will rapidly remove all ammonia occurring from natural processes, unless there is something seriously wrong with the biological system. But taking any aquarium with a decent planting, there simplay cannot be too many...

"If you're not getting corydoras then dwarf cichlids are fine." @CaptainBarnicles Can you please explain what you mean here, I don't understand why cories and dwarf cichlids cannot be together, if this is what you meant. ?

Colin's idea is one method, but not one I would recommend. Cories will dig into the gravel, sand pit or no sand pit, if gravel is there. And that is where the bacterial issue comes up again, wearing down their barbels. And do not put sand on top of gravel, the sand being smaller-grain will...

Agree completely with Colin in post #2. To answer your second part, is it necessary to fertilize...it depends. Each species of plant needs light of a minimum intensity to photosynthesize, and at the same time it needs some 17 nutrients. Different plants have different needs for light and...

Normally, a bacterial bloom (the cloudy or hazy water) can cause a rise in ammonia, but not the reverse (per say). If the plants recently added were planted and the substrate was stirred up in doing the planting, ammonia could be released. Decomposition of organics in the ubstrate produce...

You need a timer, this is a serious issue for fish. https://mjvaquatics.com/lighting-how-it-affects-freshwater-fish/

Cories are pretty much the most peaceful and placid of fishes. But there are exceptions, and things to be aware of. Most Corydoras species are roughly the same size, somewhere in the 1.5 to 2.5 inch/3 to 6 cm length. Then there are the three or four "dwarf" species, 1 inch (2.5 cm) or less...

I thought there were photos of the tank, but not in this thread so I may be thinking of another member. You need to have a few chunks of real wood (meaning, actual wood suitable for an aquarium, as opposed to fake ceramic or PVC or whatever. Ancistrus ned real wood to graze, it has to do with...

I think there are two very important distinctions here, which I suspect @TwoTankAmin would agree with, but if not he can tell us. First, none of these products--with the sole exception of SafeStart and Dr. Tim's--contain the actual nitrifying bacteria species, at the second stage...

Males of most loricariids are territorial, but so far as I know these two species are not overly so, and it would be more likely with two males of the same species.

Problem algae does not directly affect fish. It is more risky for plants if they become covered with it. It does suggest an imbalance, and this could include organics, so indirectly it can alert us to possible issues. Which is why we want to keep it under control. See my post #15 above. Go...

I don't follow this. All fish mentioned are egg layers. In any aquarium with such fish, the eggs will be gobbled up almost as fast as any fish can lay them. Rarely do any survive predation to hatch. Cories will readily eat their eggs, and so will the upper fish. Over the years I have had...

Ammonia is not occurring from the plants, nor the fertilizer. We see this frequently from different members. I wouldn't worry, the test may not be all that accurate. I can't remember, is there a plant substrate here--if yes, this might well cause ammonia.

The algae is much more likely due to the light being too much, which can be intensity or duration or both. I would deal with the duration first, and reduce it. You recently raised it when you saw the algae, but I would suspect it should have been reduced. Seven hours may be sufficient...

The leaves have to receive sufficient light and nutrients. The light reaching the bottom of the tank is much less intense and not sufficient for growth. Photosynthesis occurs in the leaves, and light is what drives it, so inadequate light and the leaf dies.

If you do not regularly trim stem plants, the tops keep growing and once they reach the surface will then grow across the surface, on and on. By this time there will not be sufficient light for the lower stems, unless you are running a high-tech system.

This is why I have never bothered with stem plants much. Stem plants are fast growing, which means more light intensity and nutrients. All plants put their energy into new growth, that is their strategy. Some plants can even move what are called mobile nutrients from old leaves to new leaves...

I agree on not using the QT if ammonia or nitrite is showing, as it is here (post #4). If you could dump some floating plants in, it might work. But if ammonia or nitrite are not zero, do not add fish.

Cardinal tetra --you have 12, that's OK. Rummynose Tetra--you have 12, that's minimum. Corydoras--a group of 15, same species or mix; if a mix then get 5 of each species if you have 3 species. Zebra pleco...You need chunks of wood with tunnels or crevices. Mine remained hidden most of the time...

We don't know. The GH and KH is due to whatever carbonate minerals the water may have come into contact with, and this is unlikely to change. I assume these values are the water out of the tap, not in the aquarium, as other factors in the aquarium could affect them. The pH you have said is...

Yes.

No, the water is very soft.

Sand normally does not need stirring. Provided it is not too deep, say up to 2 inches. Some "dead" spots are normal and part of a healthy substrate. Fish will move sand around some, and plant roots if planted in the substrate provide oxygen. Snails help too. Anaerobic spots especially under...

As others have advised, I would not get dwarf gourami. Also, gourami and cichlids should not be combined, they are too much alike. A pair of Apistogramma is fine. Corydoras need a group, and you have the space so 12-15. I would have 15-20 in a tank with these dimensions. You can mix...

Plants in the back are not easy because they receive the least amount of light intensity. The Water Sprite I am certain will be better floating. As for the back, I tend to use Amazon Swords, not as a "wall" which I think looks so artificial anyway, but three plants (always better in odd...

Again, GH is the more important, don't get hung up on pH. And I'm sorry, but none of us can possibly say the fish are thriving in such conditions. all we can do is research the habitat conditions and provide them, and the fish will then and only then be likely to thrive, rather than survive...

May be better left floating then.

This was answered by captain and essjay on the last page. Most of the fish have issues.

How much Water Sprite? Maybe a photo of the tank will tell us. You could have one or two floating, and leave the rest, depending how many plants. This plant, a Ceratopterus, is a true fern, and daughter plants will form on alternat fronds (leaves) and once settled, you will have many...

When they are settled in, they tend to occupy fairly specific levels. I have never known rummynose, and I have had this species for 20+ years, to swim above mid-tank except at feeding time.

]This would be better floating, it is an ideal floater. When planted, its high light needs sometimes cause it to fall apart.

I saw Tiger Barb, and @Essjay is correct on its unfortunate behaviour problems. But there is a lovely barb very similar, except the males have a ruby red head. Black Ruby Barb, Pethia nigrofasciata. It is not too boisterous, and swims mid-level. I would not have it with hatchetfishes though...

Thanks, I thought so but couldn't find it in this long thread. Both these tetras are lower level, so you want to be looking for fish that live at or near the surface, and mid-tank. Corydoras in a group of 12-15 are good if you go with them, they are obviously substrate level, but this is still...