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Yes, the video was on its side but I managed to see what you were talking about. The surface disturbance is in my view fine for these fish. The vegetable food I would probably reduce, one disk placed in the same spot each time. The cories do not have teeth so they cannot rasp this food, and I...

Now that the species have been mentioned in the last couple posts, my first comment would be that you have substrate-level fish but nothing above them. All the dwarf cichlids including the Bolivian Ram (and yes, it is ideal on its own with a tank of cories and characins, but it will own the...

Keep an eye on the kerri tetras. I had this species in the 1990's, and it is not a problem in sufficient numbers. Not your fault, but having been just two in their former home may have affected them, depending upon the time. My group of 12 were fine, but other sources report fin nipping which...

This was cited from my profile of this species which I reearched and authored about 12 years ago. I used Seriously Fish, Fishbase, and reputable sources though with more than 200 profiles written I cannot remember all of them. My practice was always to take the majority view from the...

Yes, that was my thinking on the "neons." To the temperature question, one has to consider each species and their preferred range. Starting with the Corydoras, this is not a warm water fish (none of the species should be maintained above 25C/77F long-term; short term as summer heat waves and...

Do it before acquiring any more fish. This is tricky though, as the current death-causing whatever is unknown, and changing the substrate will be highly stressful, and stress on top of already-stressed fish is anything but advisable. But, assuming the issue gets resolved, the plan should be...

The movement of the duckweed in this video is as much as you want or need, and maybe less would be better. But it doesn't look that much, but who can tell. One thing about this hobby is that being in front of any aquarium allows one to see the factors much better than any number of photos or...

Yes, I saw that. One thing I would advise, is not having more than one species of Paracheirodon (the cardinal and green neon). I believe you have three cardinals left, I would leave these (or rehome them). P. axelrodi (cardinal) and P. simulans (green) are very closely related, and most...

Assuming the species are Pethia padamya (Odessa) and Puntius semifasciolatus (Golden), either should be OK with respect to environment/conditions. The latter is a tad larger, but this is a 4-foot 55g so fine.

Yes, but I don't know where to begin because it is your aquarium and I do not know what you may like. There are hundreds of suitably-sized species, and well suited to your soft water, that could work. It is also not easy suggesting fish from a pretty much blank slate, both for not knowing what...

Yes, I understood this, I was merely pointing out that once you decide on a species, you need to ensure it has what it needs before you acquire them.

Yes, that is duckweed. There are times when this is well worth having, primarily as a food for plant-eaters, but also in small tanks it does have a positive benefit on water, but the shade value is minimal. More substantial plants are better, Water Sprite, Frogbit, Water Lettuce are three I...

Cyanobacteria is caused by high organics in the presence of light. The only way to deal with it is to address the organics/nutrients issue, and ensure the light is properly regulated for the aquarium. I can assure you that unless the cause--organics/nutrients--is not dealt with, the cyano will...

First comment, you cannot rely on online calculator sites. Those programs cannot possibly take into account the factors that must be considered when combining two or more fish species. Tank size and numbers is not the important issue. I mentioned some time back that this tank was not really...

First bit of advice, never acquire a fish to solve a problem. This is not a problem anyway, but the caution on acquiring fish (or any critter) is significant. YoYo Loaches are not all that efficient at eating snails. Few loaches actually are. But given the size of most loaches, and their...

First, when the tank light comes on, and when it goes off, there must be ambient light in the room. This alleviates the shock to the fish which can lead to severe stress. It takes fish about 30 minutes to adjust to different light levels, and they should never be fed or water changed or...

That is the tropical species, at least the name is correct for this one. Here's a couple photos of my Frogbit when it bloomed.

May have lucked out, but be vigilant, this can change literally overnight. It happened with my Bolivians.

Light seems good. Be brief with the dawn/dusk periods, 30-45 minutes, no less than 30, but not beyond an hour. And moonlight, as little as possible. Light is an issue for fish, more than plants. Consistency is the key, same time every day for changes and durations, and a period of total...

If the smaller tank is going to be it, I would not at this point add anything, but when all is resolved, the cardinals can be increased. Keep an eye out for good floating plants, this is still something that would help you here. I would not add more frogs, most members will advise not...

This is a cichlid species, as are the two smaller (different species) but one of the experienced cichlid members will know which...let's start with @Wills. Wills will fill you in, but I think you have no choice but permanent separation, perhaps a local store will take them? The larger is...

My first comment is that I have often read members suggesting that the moisture on the leaves is the problem, but I do not believe it is. Condensation is normal in all tanks. [ @AlexT are you sure during total darkness water is not evaporating and condensing on the tank cover? If the tank...

The list of species in post #11 obviously will not work with all of them, but until you pin down one or more, offering advice on others is difficult. You might do well to check the info on SF for the species, paying particular attention to size, numbers needed of each species, where they swim...

There is likely nothng here to worry about, as I'll explain. First, with an acidic pH the "ammonia" is largely ammonium which is basically harmless. Plants and nitrifying bacteria take up both when present. As for the increase after a water change, I suspect your water authority uses...

This is better. GPG is grains per gallon which I can't remember how to convert, but the ppm is one of the two units we use so this will tell us. The 8.4 has 143 ppm and the 11.7 has 200 ppm. Ppm is parts per million, which is the same as mg/l (milligrams per liter). The other unit we use is...

OK, I will tag a couple members who may know more about the pleco issue. Wait until they have advised before doing any other "treatments." Water changes are fine, as I said. @GaryE @Colin_T

That's OK. You won't be able to delete either post, but I will ask a mod to combine them, if I can find one online. Back to your issue(s), ich once in a tank is in the tank and has to be dealt with in the tank. The easiest and safest treatment is simply increasing the tank water temperature...

My post was in response to Alex's question about the plant in his tank. Sorry we got this confused. Cories won't do any harm to aponogeton. Mystery snails I know nothing of.

You have two threads with this question, and the same photo. I cannot see a mod online at the moment to ask to combine the two, but posting in two threads can be very confusing. But stop adding all the medications, they are likely more harm than good. Clean water, so water changes are fine...

What substance is the 2.8, I cannot see it. But I do not see the GH (general or total hardness) anywhere, and that is what you/we need. If you can post a link to your water authority website I will have a look for it, sometimes it is "buried" somewhere. But not always unfortunately.

We will definitely need the photo(s). Ich that comes in on a fish is in the tank, so removing the fish has no value. Are you treating that fish? And what medication/additive did you use to treat the tank with the pleco?

I will just note that the substrate must be suited to the needs of the fish. Without knowing what you intend in this tank, we can't offer much advice. If the substrate gets blown around the tank the filter is too powerful. Sand makes a better aquarium bacteria bed than gravel, it is the small...

Aponogeton plants are not what I would call sturdy, perhaps Lcc86 could enlighten us on this plant. I would say Echinodorus swords are ideal because any of the smaller plecos that graze leaves would have no problem.

Red Tiger Lotus (Nymphaea lotus) is indeed a beauty. Its growth habits vary depending upon light intensity and nutrients. Red leaf plants appear red because they reflect red wavelength light. Red and blue light is essential for photosynthesis, and green added does improve plant growth. But...

Welcome to TFF. :hi: On the tank leak, I doubt it can be sealed without emptying it of everything and drying it out. The silicone seems to have been pierced or given way. I would not touch the tank in any way, meaning don't tap it or bump it, and hopefully the leak will be confined to...