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Yes, a small size can, and I would get the mini which are the smallest bites. All of my fish relished these as their staple, from hatchetfish to pencilfish to tetras to rasboras to cories.

Another thing, it may be overall less expensive to buy larger packages, but fish foods do deteriorate. When I had my fish room I bought larger packages, took some out, and froze the rest. Then took out some to thaw as needed weeks later. But if you only have one tank, and remembering that...

From the posted photo of the ingredients, this looks OK. There is a limit to how much one can scientifically "dissect" foods, as TwoTankAmin mentioned somewhere. I first look for ingredients, and I want to see "whole" whatever, such as whole fish, whole herring, whole shrimp, etc. I do not...

OK, that is basically a standard 29g with those dimensions. The dimensions are more important generally. The rasboras are OK, if you want 15 then get them all at once. Shoaling fish always settle in faster the more there are, one beenefit. And for those species that do have an hierarchy or...

This is highly dangerous for fish, do not mess with the parameters individually like the pH. It is tied to the GH and KH, and other factors like CO2, and whatever. Soft water fish live in soft water with little or no KH. The pH is usually on the acidic side (there are some exceptions, we...

Never listen to store staff when selecting fish. There are very few who know anything about it. What is the tank size, both volume and length/width? What fish species and how many of each?

For the fish species you have, water current is fine.

My article on water changes pinned at the head of the Tropical Discussion forum should answer your questions. https://www.fishforums.net/threads/regular-partial-water-changes.471488/ You cannot use water tests to determine when water changes are needed, except obviously when something is...

In terms of ingredients, Hikari prepared foods are about as poor as you can get, and I would never feed these to my fish. On the fish, what is the tank size (volume and dimensions length/width)? I couldn't see this anywhere in this thread. I'm asking because of the gouramis.

Dwarf cichlids are bottom feeders, so foods for cories and loaches usually stand out. Bug Bites is my #1, and there are a couple of sizes, but I would probably use the mini or the next larger. The apisto will pick them off the substrate. Shrimp pellets also work. Frozen daphnia and shrimp as...

I would re-home these. This "ChineseAlgae Eater" tends to become very nasty as it matures, and there are confirmed reports of it eating the slime coat off other fish. It gets large, and mean. Compatibility/Temperament: As it matures this fish becomes aggressive, especially toward...

Plants that should be rooted in the substrate, yes. Anubias, Java Fern and all floaters are not substrate-rooted plants. If you bury the rhizome of Anubias or Java Fern, it stands a good chance of rotting.

I fully concur with sharkweek. On the plant issue, I suspect the plants are simply losing the lower leaves as they grow. This is normal for stem plants. The new growth will appear towards the light, and the plant will not sacrifice it by pushing nutrients to the lower portions which are not...

Welcome to TFF. The cause of the problem is numbers of the species Changing the decor will not solve it. And from what you describe, I would expect the small clown loach to not be alive very long, unless you separate them. There is no other solution. Acquiring more is likely going to enrage...

Java Fern like Anubias is attached to wood, rock, etc. either by inserting the rhizome into a crevice of using black cotton thread. It will grow roots to attach itself in time.

I know a lot of fish species, but not all by sight especially the cyprinids...what are the two fish here?

What species of fish? And what plant species? What you are observing may not be the fish, but the plants and the fish are taking advantage of the biofilm.

Colin's questions are well put. While adjusting parameters is always possible, it is not as easy as it might sound. It makes water changes more cumbersome because the water has to be prepared outside the aquarium to the same [parameters before being added. And the mineral salt mixes are not...

The marble hatchetfish is in the genus Carnegiella. The species in this clade are the smallest of all the hatchetfishes; the species in both Thoracocharax and Gasteropelecus are significantly larger, G. sternicula attains close to 4 inches, and its cousin G. maculatus attains 3.5 inches. The...

Good to hear. In hindsight, the cardinals demise may have been more to do with the medication than ich, can't say for certain, but characins are highly sensitive to any medication/drug (many brands suggest half strength for these fish). Cardinals are certainly not harmed by heat, at 86F/30C...

The plants in your list in post #15: First is small, similar to Salvinia, so I would get something more substantial. Second (Frogbit) is more substantial, and a nice plant. Three and four are Anubias species, should be fine for attaching to wood, and it will be less likely to become...

Just be careful of whatever sand you do buy. Some aquarium sands are much too rough for pygmies, and some is calcareous and will increase GH/KH/pH. And avoid black or white. A natural tan or brown tone is ideal and very natural.

The need for well covered tanks is significant. The hatchetfishes are surface fish identified by their rounded keel. The large pectoral fins are attached by powerful muscles that propel the fish from the water, enabling it to glide considerable distances (up to 12 feet have been recorded)...

One has to be careful with any substrate, but I think that overall sand is the best for an aquarium. I had far worse anaerobic patches with my fine gravel than I ever did with sand, though admittedly I did not go poking around in it. Plants rooted in the sand do release oxygen as a by-product...

Is chloramine added to your municipal water, or just chlorine? The chloramine is a bond of chlorine and ammonia, and several members find ammonia at this very low level (0.25 to 0.50) following a water change. Conditioners break the bond but the ammonia is still present. But should not be an...

I cannot recall reading this in the past, and frankly it makes little sense. A new tank means scarcely any natural nutrients--these come from feeding fish and water changes--so I always dosed Flourish Comprehensive Supplement as soon as a plant went in. It depends what this actually means...

Yes, stem plants left floating usually work well. Wisteria can work this way, but not everyone has success with it. Pennywort was one stem plant I grew well (I never had very bright light, because of its effect on fish, so plants had to manage and not all would). But true floaters like Water...

Settings with the tank light, whether intensity or duration, and any changes to plant fertilizers if any, all these need to be individual and given time. For example, when I was working to eradicate black brush algae, the light was my prime concern, so an hour less, then 3-4 weeks later another...

These are slow growing plants, so that means less light intensity and less nutrient requirement. You really must get some floaters, believe me, their impact is phenomenal for all this.

Yes, I know...too bad, poor mollies.

Make changes slowly, it takes days for each to take effect, so you can't jump the gun.

Some observations. The "Daylight" period is your prime plant light. This is the light that most matters to grow plants, and control algae. The dawn/dusk/blue periods are extras that need to be under control. Anything up to an hour in the morning before the "daylight" comes on and in the...

The light duration is a factor here. Closer to 8hours will likely help. Nutrients (organics) have to be available, and missing regular water changes increase these, but the light has to be there too.

Nannostomus marginatus, to get the spelling right (my slip in the last post). I would never get less than 12-15 of this species. And 15 would be my choice. Cardinals up to 12. Cories I believe are 9, fine. And a pleco if memory serves me, fine.

Well, "the algae isn't running rampant" seems something of an understatement...I never had it like these photos. And you don't need to resign yourself to this either. You mentioned previously that the plants were doing better with the white light change, so there is no doubt but that your...

Pencilfish...the species is all-important. There are currently twenty described species in the genus Nannostomus (this genus holds all "pencilfish" species at present). Many are peaceful and extraordinarily beautiful, but a few are real terrors. Those I would look at for this tank are...

@Magnos Diffused daylight does make a huge difference with problem algae. I had issues with black brush algae in a couple tanks for some time, and about 9 years ago with monthly calibrations I worked the balance out to seven hours of tank light per day, and no increase in algae. The plants...