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What is the hardness of your water? That determines what fish can be kept. Does your water provider have a website with hardness somewhere on it?

Going forwards, you could try mixing plain RO water with your hard tap water to get the hardness you need. That would leave some minerals from your tap water in the mix.

I assume you mean the danio has eggs in her ovaries, she cannot be be carrying fry as danios are not livebearers but egg layers. If there are no male danios she may expel the eggs but they cannot be fertilised. Celestial pearl danios are a completely different species. Either she is egg bound...

Is this water you remineralised yourself or did you buy it remineralised? If it's the latter, was it prepared to use for Rift Lake cichlids, which would mean made very hard and with high pH?

It would be easier and cheaper in the long term to keep soft water fish, though more money at the outset as even if the shop would take your current fish they won't give you much in part-ex. Going forward, with hard water fish it means having the salts available all the time and using them at...

A quick search on eBay and Amazon for "rift lake salts" and "cichlid lake salts" produces several products - Seachem Cichlid Lake Salt and Fritz Rift Lake Probiotic. The Seachem product just adds GH so you also need a separate buffer to increase KH. Though I don't know whether you would need...

So your hardness is 5.04 Clark. This unit is not used in fish keeping, it converts to 4 dH and 72 ppm which are used in fish keeping. You have soft water which is way too low for your fish - Colin gave you the minimum hardness for them When hard water fish are kept in soft water they suffer...

@JoeFinn1997 The most reliable way to find your hardness, or GH, is by looking on your water company's website. You need a number and the unit of measurement (there are several they could use). If you can't find it, tell us the name of your water company and we'll see if we can find the page.

We've had members in the past who have had problems when using similar looking root tabs. I think it was @AdoraBelle Dearheart who had a nitrite spike. I would stay with a reputable brand known not to cause ammonia/nitrite spikes such as Seachem Flourish root tabs and TNC Plugs.

I've found this -

I'd get another half dozen celestial pearl danios and 10 embers. You need to run both filters for at least 2 months. The bacteria numbers will increase as you add more fish, but as they live in biofilm they don't move much. The numbers increase by the current bacteria splitting into two so the...

With celestial pearl danios, I'd have bought a lot more than 6, probably around 18 of them. They are a shy fish which do best in large numbers. Being small they don't have a big bioload.

Pets at Home have done this for a long time. It's to cover themselves, not to help you. They may take all those details, but ask them something and they are unlikely to have a clue. Do they still let you buy a maximum of 6 fish?

Have you looked at these sites? https://www.loaches.com https://fishbase.mnhn.fr/search.php

I must have mixed your tank up with someone else's :blush: In a 36 gallon, I would stay with just the ones you have, no more. Female bettas don't live together in nature, so having a group in the confines of a tank means that there should be somewhere for each one to get away from the others...

How many females do you now have? This is a 20 gallon tank, isn't it? I would not put more than half a dozen in a 20 gallon as each female needs to be able to get away from all the others.

Bacter AE is really intended for shrimp tanks. From the manufacturer's website

In that case, the bacteria in the filter should be alive. Put the fish back in the tank, but test for ammonia and nitrite every day. If either ever read above zero do a water change.

How did you clean the filter? If you just rinsed the media in old tank water or even new dechlorinated water, the bacteria in the media will still be there. But if you used a more aggressive form of cleaning you may find you need to re-cycle the tank. Tell us exactly how you cleaned the filter...

It is very easy to suck up baby shrimps, this is why I always check the bucket before throwing the old water away :)

It looks a bit like elodea, aka egeria, aka anacharis.

IP67 is for up to 1 metre for 30 minutes. For IP68 First digit = 6 Second digit = 8 https://uk.rs-online.com/web/content/discovery/ideas-and-advice/ip-ratings My light was IP68. When the tube leaked, the manufacturer told me it was the individual LEDs that were IP68 and not to worry about...

Be careful with which sources you look at, many of them give poor, if downright inaccurate, info. Anyone can set up a website or post YouTube videos with little actual knowledge. SF is the best general fish site out there; even if it isn't perfect it's better than others. And as others have...

It was me that said it, after reading comments by Byron. He was involved with SF, writing many of the profiles on there. Numbers for shoaling fish - In a thread about tank size for rummy nose tetras he said Byron many times referred readers to Corydorasworld for accurate information on...

Some of the profiles on Seriously Fish are out of date. It is now recognised that cories other than the dwarf species need bigger tanks. SF's profile on Hoplisoma trilineatus also says "A group of at least six is best" but again this is out of date with 10 or more being the recommended number...

'False julii' is how a lot of people refer to them. It would save confusion if shops called them by their real name :rolleyes:

I once bought a small LED light which had the IP rating for fully submersible like the one in the photo ^ . Within a few days there was water inside the tube and the individual LEDs stopped working one by one. Within a week of buying it only half the LEDs worked. The manufacturer sent a...

Any chance of going back for a few more? Cories like to be kept in groups. 6 would do but 10 would be better. Many shops label these cories as julii but they're really trilineatus. Yours look like trilineatus, though @CassCats will know better than me. And they're not cories any more, both...

I wouldn't use it in water. Most of these tubes are meant to be used in lids.

Sand which does alter water chemistry. Some sands are made from coral or limestone which increase hardness and pH. Sand was suggested rather than gravel as sand is better for cories. Sand is the best option here, many US members use Quickrete play sand, it does need a lot of washing to prepare...

Thank you for the photos, they clear up exactly what is high and what's low. Nitrate gets into a tank in 2 ways. The first is from tap water. The US allows a maximum 45 ppm in mains water. The second way is made from nitrite which in turn is made from the ammonia excreted by the fish. Have you...

There is no correct way. If you want the wood to stay on the bottom of the tank, soak it until it sinks - or use something to hold it down. If the wood turns the water brown and you don't like that, change the water daily until the amount of brown is less.

Congratulations :hooray:

The first fish I had were goldfish which my sons won at the fair. The largest waited until half a frozen cube had thawed then swallowed the remainder whole. After that I've always thawed frozen food before feeding.

How high was nitrate? Although it is recommended to keep nitrate below 20 ppm, levels of over 100 ppm won't kill fish quickly. Nitrate is a slow killer. Ammonia and nitrite are the fast killers. Can you give us numbers for these two, please.

I wouldn't bother with ceramics, sponges are a better biomedium. If you really want to replace the sponges, do the baskets one at a time with a couple of months between. Change the one last in the direction of water flow first so that any biofilm which comes loose is washed into the new media...

I know exactly what you mean - that's how we did titrations many many years ago for A level chemistry practical exam. :) A trial titration first by adding several mls a time, which meant we knew how much was not quite the end point and how much was past the end point, then the actual titrations...

Chlorine/chloramine does not actually kill every bacteria, it just keeps their numbers very low. When there's no chlorine/chloramine, those very few are now able to multiply. Of course those with well water don't have chlorine or chloramine; it would be interesting to know how long a fishless...

If it was my tank, I'd first increase the numbers of the shoaling fish you have to 10 of each. That would then leave you full stocked.

The fish will be OK for a few hours. Mine have been OK for 8 hours during a planned power cut. The bacteria will be fine in even just damp sponges. They won't die off lifting the sponges out of water to cut them up.