Member's Planted Tanks (Follow Directions To Submit A Tank)

Please fully read and understand this first post before submitting your tank to this thread.

Member's Planted Tanks is intended to be a database of specifications with photos of member's planted aquariums. It should provide a valuable resource to other members of the forum and should be particularly helpful to less experienced planted aquarists. It also gives the individual member the opportunity to show off their hard work.

Do not post any replies regarding questions or feedback in this thread? I will delete them. PM the relevant member with any feedback or question you may have and if it is useful then the member will edit their post accordingly. Potential contributors should be aware that they may receive lots of PMs.

If you wish to submit your planted tank then please follow these guidelines.

1. Please do not contribute your tank unless it is well-planted, if it isn't then the Member's Aquarium Pictures Forum is the place for you. I would define "well-planted" as the aquascape being strongly dominated by living, true-aquatic plants that are growing healthily. Typically this would mean a minimum of 50% of the substrate covered in plants but there may be possible exceptions. PM me if you are unsure.

2. Follow this format for listing your tank specifications. It may be a good idea to cut and paste this into your post. If everyone follows the exact same format then I feel the thread will look very well-presented and professional looking. There is more detail here than many may be used to but in my experience the more detail the better, especially for potential planted hobbyists wishing to replicate any of the hardware, parameters etc.

Tank Volume (US Gallons, Litres), Dimensions (L x H x W - Inches, cm)

Filtration Type, media used

Lighting Type (T8, T5, PC etc.) and quantity (amount of tubes, Watts), colour temp.

CO2 Method of injection (DIY, pressurized etc.), quantity (average ppm), diffusion/reaction type, bubble rate

Substrate Type, quantity (Kg or depth in inches/cm), additives used

Fertilisation Types used, quantities and frequency of dosing.

Water chemistry pH, KH, GH, NO3, PO4, temperature

Maintenance Water change schedule, filter cleaning, substrate cleaning etc.

Fish list of species, quantity if necessary

Plants list of species (full scientific/Latin names please, common terms are too ambiguous)

Decor types i.e. bogwood, stones

Additional comments Give a brief history of the tank's life.

Discuss any problems you had with individual plants i.e. stunted growth, nutrient deficiencies and how you overcame them.

Talk about any algae experiences and you dealt with them i.e. changes in CO2, fertilising. Try to keep it brief yet well informed.

3. Try to keep the photos to a minimum, yet enough to portray the feel of the tank. Start with one whole tank shot, label the plants if necessary and provide a key. I'm leaving this to your common sense. If you feel close-ups are particularly relevant then provide them. If the size of the contribution gets out of hand then I will edit as I see fit. This may sound obvious but please crop the images to fit within a standard size desktop screen. All too often I see huge images in posts that overlap my visible desktop area.

4. Finally it has to be said I'm afraid (I hope this won't be relevant).

Don't even think about posting photos of someone else's work. I will probably be able to tell by the specs if it is genuine, if I'm in any doubt I will PM the contributor with some probing questions that will allow me to ascertain whether the submission is honest. If I believe there is cheating then needless to say the post will be deleted followed by possible disciplinary action. You have been warned.

I look forward to seeing your contributions.

Jimbooo's planted tanks in detail

Juwel Rio 180 - set up December 2004
101x41x50 - 180 Litres (39.5 UK Gallons / 48 USG)




Filtration – Juwel Standard filter as supplied (only use blue sponges and white floss)

Heater: standard Juwel as supplied

Lighting – 4x T8 tubes at 30W. Total WPG 2.5
Tubes: Arcadia Freshwater (7500K), Dennerle Special Plant (3000K), 2x JBL tubes (4000K and 6000K)

CO2 – 2 Hagen Nurtafin units - diy mixture

Substrate – 3mm Gravel plus laterite (as per ratio on box) substrate depth 2/3 inches

Fertilisation - Just started EI. Dosing Potassium Nitrate (to 15ppm) and Potassium phosphate (to 1ppm) plus the Kent Botanic range of Liquid fertilisers (Grow, K, FE and Micro). Dosing schedule is based on the EI theory, details in Zigs pinned article also in this section.
I do also add root fertiliser sticks beneath the larger rosette plants ie Amazon Swords etc..

Water chemistry – pH:6.8, KH:12, NO3:15, PO4:1, temperature: 25C

Maintenance – Water change schedule: 50% weekly, filter cleaning: rince one sponge per month in old tank water, substrate cleaning: gravel vac at each water change.

Fish – 6 Zebra Danio, 11 Cardinal Tetras, 1 Neon Tetra, 6 white cloud mountain minnows, 1 Boesmani Rainbow, 4 Blue Rainbow, 4 Sterbai Corys, 1 Sailfin Plec, 1 Flying Fox, 1 Angelfish, 6 ottos, ramshorn & trumpet snails

Decor: lots of bogwood / mopani wood, slate


Juwel Rekord 60 - Set up June 04
61x36x31 - 54 Litres (12 UK Gallons / 14 USG)



Equipment List

Lighting: 2x T8 tubes at 15W. Total WPG 2.14
Tubes: Arcadia Freshwater (7500K), Dennerle Special Plant (3000K)

Substrate: pea gravel (not ideal) with first layer Laterite

Heater: standard Juwel as supplied

Filtration: Standard Juwel as supplied

CO2: 1 Hagen Nutrafin Unit - diy mixture

Fish: 1 common plec, 6 glowlight tetras, 6 White cloud mountain minnows, 1 amano shrimp, 4 ottos, ramshorn & trumpet snails

Water chemistry and fertilisation are identical to the rio 180

Plant List and findings

1 - Vallisneria spiralis

This stuff grows like a weed in my tank, once I added the laterite it seemed to go into overdrive sending out about 7 or 8 runners a week. Needs weekly pruning, as the long leaves will cover the surface very quickly shading the lower plants. I prune simply by cutting the leaves 2 inches below the surface at a 45-degree angle to reduce browning at the tip. I have also noticed you can gently tug on the longest leaves and they will break off from the crown. This promotes a growth spurt for the following week.

2 - Amazon Swords (Echinodorus bleheri)
These plants were slow to get going. When I had a plain gravel substrate without co2 they would get nasty brown patches on them and tend to wither and wilt quite quickly. Since I discovered laterite and co2 they have taken off. A heavy root feeder that will thrive with a good substrate that needs to be at least 2 inches deep for the roots to take hold. When established the roots of this plant will reach all 4 corners of your tank! Prune by pulling the older leaves from the crown at the base, do not cut the stem. This will promote new growth.

3 - echinodorus "red flame"
From the same family as the Amazon sword, growth identical to above. With good fertilisation and light the red marbled effect is stunning. One of my favourite plants, prune as with Amazon sword

4 - Java Fern (Microsorum pteropus) (pic below)
One of the most useful and easy to propagate plants in the hobby. This little forest was made from one plant I originally had in my low spec rekord 60 (in the early days). When the plant has insufficient light and nutrients the larger leaves die, sprouting small plantlets at the tip. These plantlets can be removed when the leaves are an inch long and tied to bogwood or stone. My original plant produced about 50 plantlets that have been used on 4 pieces of bogwood to create the effect of one big plant. It will grow healthily in any light but growth rate will increase with higher light.


5 - Tiger Lotus Lilly (Nymphaea lotus var. rubra)
Beautiful plant, took a while to get going but once established (after 2 months) it throws off 2 new leaves a week. You need to train the plant for submerged life, remove floating leaves as soon as they get near the surface by tugging at the base; the stem breaks easily from the crown. Leaves are thick and leathery with a deep red colouration. Otto’s, Cory’s and suchlike like to sit on the leaves for a rest or under them for shade

6 - Anubias Nana
Tricky plant to grow without spot algae in my tank. Although it is a common plant in the hobby it does best in low light hence when in my tank under direct lighting the leaves cant keep up with the light so spot algae tends to creep onto the leaves. I have had success with it after putting in the lilies to shade the Anubias, with the lower light the growth rate has increased - cant explain why but it's a fact if a little confusing.

7 - Java Moss (Vesicularia dubyana) (pic below just after making the carpet - will bush out soon)
Very easy plant to grow can be attached to wood or stone and will take hold in a few weeks. Will also make a nice carpet if attached to a flat slate tile with a hairnet. Useful in lower light tanks where a carpeting effect is required.



8 - Dwarf Riccia (pic below)
Well where do I start. My favourite of all aquatic plants, naturally a floating plant but can be submerged to form a dense carpet. Dwarf Riccia is very rare and I have never seen it for sale since my chance purchase in a LFS. Online companies don’t seem to offer it either. Similar to Riccia fluitians but more compact, forms a hedge rather than a lawn if that makes sense. When the tank parameters are correct the whole plant will be covered in a dense layer of oxygen bubbles and your tank will look as if it is filled with lemonade!!


9 - Ludwiga Reapens
Nice plant and useful to add colour to the tank. Requires regular pruning, cutting off the bottom 1/3 and replanting the top. Can be propagated easily by snipping off at the internodes and planting each piece separately. One stem can then give rise to 20 new stems (pm me if your confused, I know I am) with age tends to send out way too many mid stem roots so worthwhile keeping on top of the pruning

10 - Hairgrass (Eleocharis acicularis)
Seems to be growing healthily in my tank but a bit of a pain to keep in check. The runners travel under wood and stone and pop up at the other side of the tank where they’re not supposed to be, getting fed up with it myself just haven't thought of a replacement yet.

11 - Micro Sword (Lilaeopsis novae-zelandiae)
Okay this stuff had caused me more trouble than anything else in the tank. The plant itself is beautiful and carpets more like a garden lawn than any other plant I have come across. The problem is it has always been swamped in algae in between the blades of grass. I have never managed to totally cure the problem; it is a slow grower so my lighting levels are most probably the cause.

12 - Micranthemum umbrosum (pic below)
Gorgeous plant bright green forms a bush like structure with pearling at the tips. The shape of the leaves means the oxygen bubbles are held in place at the tip. Good plant next to Riccia if they are both pearling. Needs to be prunes as with all stem plants, remove bottom 1/3 and replant the top.


13 - Riccia Fluitians (Crystalwort) (pic below)
Very close to dwarf Riccia but leaf structure is looser. This is the version used by Amano in his masterpiece tanks. Naturally floating but forms a neat "lawn" when submerged with bubbles across the leaf tips.


Please feel free to PM me with any questions or comments and i'll do my best to help. I have not included my cube tank as it has only been set up 8 weeks, too soon to advise based on the short time.

Tank – 30 US gallons. 75 x 45 x 45cm.



Filtration – Aquaclear 300 HOB with filter floss only. Fluval 204 with filter foam, ceramic noodles and filter floss.

Lighting – 2 Compact Fluorescent units each holding 2 tubes. Currently I have 2 6500/1000K tubes and 2 10000K tubes. Total lighting=96watts. 3.2 watts per gallon. Lights left on for 12 hours per day without a siesta.

CO2 – Pressurised cylinder with levels maintained slightly higher than 30ppm. Diffusion using bubble ladders.

Substrate – Small black gravel with a layer of laterite in the lower third. Depth varies from 2 inches to 3 inches depending on the gradients I have setup in the tank. The back right hand corner is a lot deeper as it is a raised area.

Fertilisation – using the E.I. method of dosing nitrate levels are maintained at 20ppm and phosphate at 1ppm. I add Seachem Flourish every second day for trace elements.

Water chemistry – pH=7.0, KH=10.6deg, GH=11deg, Nitrate=20ppm, phosphate=1ppm, Water temp=27degC

Maintenance – 50% water changes performed weekly on a Saturday. Gravel not vacced as tank is heavily planted ank gravel cannot be accessed. Pruning performed on water change day. Filter media in AC300 changed/rinsed monthly, media in Fluval204 changed every second month, the timing of these is such that media from both filters are not changed in the same week.

Fish – platies, swordies, harlequin rasboras, whiteskirt tetras, platy fry, guppy fry and swordy fry.

Plants –
1. Ceratophyllum demersum (also known as foxtail or hornwort)
2. Hygrophila corymbosa "Stricta"
3. Riccia fluitans
4. Samolus valerandi (water cabbage)
5. Lilaeopsis brasilensis
6. Echinodorus "Red Flame"
7. Echinodorus amazonicus
8. Mayaca
9. Ludwigia
10. Anubias nana
11. Limnophila sessiflora (Ambulia)
12. Didiplis diandra (water hedge)
13. Valisneria americana "Natans"
14. Eichhornia diversifolia

Decor – Driftwood with anubias attached. Ceramic log covered in riccia holding gravel back at back LHS of the tank creating a raised area.

Additional comments – Have had the tank since December 2003. Initially it was a simple tank with plastic plants and plastic decor. In January 2004 I splurged and bought decent lighting. Realising this still wasn't enough I also added a DIY CO2 system made of yeast/sugar/water/bicarb soda. It was only maintained intermittently and plants suffered as a result. I then started adding liquid ferts when I remembered and root tabs when I remembered. The initial planted attempt was using sand however the plants weren't that happy so I switched to my current gravel/laterite mix at which time I added a substrate heater. I then started using the E.I. method and became diligent in maintaining my CO2. Today I have added a pressurised CO2 system which I am sure will keep my levels stable thus helping eliminate the growth of unsightly algae. Snails are now my friend, the only thing that bugs me about them is when they block up my bubble ladder.

Tank – Volume: 22 US Gallons (19 UK Gallons), Dimensions: 30x12x15 inches

Filtration – Fluval 104 External. No Carbon. Sponges and Biological.

Lighting – Interpet T5 Compact Daylight 1 x 55W (Mylar reflector). Lights on for 5 hours, off 2, on 5.

CO2 – 2 Nutrafin kits, 1/4 teaspoon yeast, flat teaspoon bicarbonate of soda, sugar and water to lines. Each cannister replaced alternately every 5 days, levels achieved: 20ppm CO2

Substrate – 2 inches playsand with laterite mixed in lower level.

Fertilisation – Kent Fe (dosed as recommended on bottle)

Water chemistry – pH: 6.9, KH: 5-6, GH: 12, NO3: 5ppm, PO4: n/a

Maintenance – 30% weekly water change. Rinsed sponges in aquarium water weekly, prod sand (to help prevent compacting)

Fish – 2 Dwarf gouramis, 3 botia striata (for snail duty), 3 amano shrimp, 5 Corydoras Metae, 3 male guppies

Plants
1. Riccia fluitans
2. Hygrophila polysperma 'Rosanervig'
3. Vallisneria (not sure which species)
4. Amazon Swords
5. Nymphaea lotus (Tiger Lily)

Decor – Bogwood. Slate for riccia.

Additional comments – This tank was set up in March 2005 and the photo was taken 24th July 2005. Unfortunately the tank has suffered the fate of blue green algae (cyanobacteria). I think the main cause was low NO3 (5ppm), so I would recommend dosing NO3 as I currently do now.

Design wise, I have used far too many large leafed plants for the tank size, but I liked them at the time and couldn't bare to part with any of them.

RYO's 120L


Tank � Jewel record 120L

Filtration � Rena xp2 external, 2 x sponge pads, basket ceramic tubes.

Lighting � 3x 30w, sera daylight(6000k) +arcadia freshwater(7500k) + JBL Solar Tropic (4000k)+ reflectors

CO2 � Pressurised CO2 injection, ceramic glass diffuser, bubble rate approx 2 bubble per second

Substrate � play sand + jbl root tabs

Fertilisation � EI method using - KNO3, kent grow , kent fe.
KNO3,dosed days 1,3,5 to 15ppm
kent grow dosed days 2,4,6 @ 5ml
kent fe dosed days 2,4,6 @ 1ml

Water chemistry � ph -6.8, kh- 53.7 ppm , gh-35.8 ppm, phosphate - 2ppm , nitrate - 10ppm, nitite -0 , ammonia- 0 , temp 28 c

Maintenance � 50% water change every 7 days, sponge filter pads cleaned every month , ceramics every 4 months. Sand where i can access it turned every water change.

Fish �
1x False network catfish (Corydoras sodalis)
5x Leopard Corydoras (Corydoras Trilineatus)
3x Agassiz's Corydoras (Corydoras agassizii )
2x Zebra Loach (Botia striata)
1x Yoyo loach (Botia almorhae)
3x Siamese Algae Eater (Crossocheilos siamensis )
10xCherry barb (Puntius (Barbus) titteya)
1x German Blue Rams (Microgeophagus ramirezi)
4x Khuli Loach (Pangio kuhlii)



Plants � Blyxa japonica, Eleocharis parrulus, Eleocharis acicularis, Eusteralis stellata, , Microsorum pteropus Windel�v, Alternathera rosaefolia (pink stem) ,Micosorium Pteropus , Anubias Nana, Vesicularis dubyana , Cryptocoryne beckettii (petchii).

Decor � 2 x Bogwood chunks

Additional comments � Tank was bought feb 2003, while the plants have been changed(fair few times) the main decor has remained the same. I've not run into any major setbacks with this tank (thanks to the guys n girls on this forum and blind luck)

RYO's 60L




Tank � 60L

Filtration � fluval 204 - 2 x ceramic tubes 1x filter floss

Lighting � 3x15w 2x arcadia freshwater(7500k) + 1 arcadia tropical +reflectors

CO2 � Pressurised CO2 injection, ceramic glass diffuser, bubble rate approx 1 bubble per second

Substrate � Sera floredepot and jbl florapol mix, black fine gravel.

Fertilisation � EI method using - KNO3, kent grow , kent fe.
KNO3,dosed days 1,3,5 to 15ppm
kent grow dosed days 2,4,6 @ 5ml
kent fe dosed days 2,4,6 @ 1ml

Water chemistry � ph -6.4, kh- 53.7 ppm , gh-35.8 ppm, phosphate - 2ppm , nitrate - 10ppm, nitite -0 , ammonia- 0 , temp 30 c

Maintenance � 50% water change every 7 days, sponge filter pads cleaned every month , ceramics every 4 months, plants cropped once a month.

Fish � 3x Glowlight Tetra (Hemigrammus erythrozonus)
4x Pepperd Corydoras (Corydoras paleatus )
4x Dwarf otocinclus ( Otocinclus affinis )
7x Eirmotus octozona
1x Cardinal Tetra (Paracheirodon Axelrodi)
1x Bristle Nose (Ancistrus triradiatus )
4x Red Cherry Shrimp (Neocaridina denticulata sinensis ) last count

Plants � Eleocharis parrulus, Eleocharis acicularis, Eusteralis stellata, , Alternathera rosaefolia (pink stem)
Hygrophila rosanervis(pink veined hygrophilia), hygrophilia difformis(water wisteria), Vesicularis dubyana (true java moss)Cryptocoryne beckettii (petchii),Anubias


Decor � 2 small peices of bogwood

Additional comments � see journal
http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?showtopic=107901

Tank – 55 US Gallons, 48" x 18" x 13”

Filtration – Emperor 400 Power Filter w/o carbon, with extra Eheim bio filter media. (2) power heads running an ungravel filter.... Yes, even with running an "ole-school" undergravel filter, the tank still runs great!

Lighting – 130 watts of 6700k Compact Florescent + 40 watt 48 inch Nutri Grow bulb. Total 170 watts = 3.4 watts per gallon

CO2 – Pressurized CO2, 5 pound tank, Nutrafin ladder, 24/7 dosing, 30 to 35ppm CO2

Substrate – Regular ole pea-gravel.

Fertilization – KNO3, KH2PO4 - EI dosing, along with Micro dosing of Seachem Flourish.

Water chemistry – pH 6.4, KH 3, GH 3, NO3 15ppm (average), PO4 2ppm (average), temperature 83

Maintenance – 30% weekly water change as well as plant pruning.

Fish – 1 Discus, 15 Cardinal tetras, 5 Glow Light Tetras, 3 SAE's.

Plants – Java Fern, Riccia, Bolbitus Heudelotii, Rotala Indica, Sagittaria Platyphyll, Amazon Sword, Tiger Lotus Lilly, Micro Sword.

Additional comments –

I had been keeping fish for 10 years... during that time, i once had 5 tanks running, including both fresh and salt/reef. I then had to move, and got rid of all my tanks...
10 years later, i started this tank
This aquarium was started up in July of 2005.

I stacked/siliconed large river rocks up the back wall of the tank to give it a 'side of lake' look, plus to give lots of hiding places for the fish.

The biggest lesson I have learned on this 'new adventure' is the EI dosing and CO2 injection.

A couple extra pics....

What the tank first looked like!


Jojo, the idiot circus boy! B)


Bolbitus Heudelotii - a plant from where Jojo is from so it feel like home


The plants perl all the time! (that Bala moved onto another tank, my sons, shortly after this photo)


Riccia!


Walt

Tank: 20 US gallons
Filtration: AquaClear HOB filter
Ligthing: CoralLife 130 watt PC 6500k each bulb
CO2: Nutrafin natural plant system with DIY yeast and sugar mix
substrate: regular brown aquarium gravel
fertilization: EI method
water chemistry: ph 7.0 kh 5, kh 5 degrees, CO2 15-20 ppm
maintenance: 50% water change once a week
fish: a pair of apisto nijsseni, a trio of apisto cacatuoides, pair of apisto hongsloi, trio of apisto borelli, rock shrimps, algae eating shrimps, cardinal tetras, black neon tetras, pretty tetra, albino bristlenose pleco
plants: Bacopa australis, cryp crispatula var, limnophila sessiliflora, alt reineckii rosefolia, gloss elantinoides, eleocharis acicularis, tiger vals, anubias nana, ech bleheri, Rotala indica,crypt. wendetii "green", java fern, java moss

comments: I wanna thank everybody on this forum for helping me and answering all my questions regarding planted tanks and I just wanna show everybody the fruits of your advices and patience on helping a fellow enthusiast......My apistos seem a lot more happier now that the tanks looks natural and the water being more softer than before. In the beginning there is quite a few algae as I have 6.5 watts per gallon but as soon as the plants take off I see less and less and my ancistrus pleco is doing a good job(he recently clean off all the algae on my co2 ladder saving me some cleaning time). all plants are growing like crazy although i've been only trimming the limnophila cause it's growing in a very rapid rate.....So far so good..I can't complain and I'm very happy how the tank turn out....
Jan 23/06: I did some reaquascaping and re arrange some of the plants a little bit....the gloss have been growing crazy almost covering the whole front part of the tank...I do have some hair algae that is not visible through this pic and won't not really noticeable in exception of anybody who has great eyesight....lol....hope u like

Tank – 33US Gallons, 125 litres

Filtration – Eheim Professional 2222 Canister Filter

Lighting – 4 Interpet Daylight Plus tubes, total wattage 86W

CO2 – Pressurised C02 maintained at 30 ppm, 1 bubble per second

Substrate – Mixture of Ecco Complete and Seachem's Black Onyx Sand

Fertilisation – Dose 5ppm of Nitrate after each water change, 5ppm Of Potassium, Phosphate 1ppm

Water chemistry – pH 7.2 , KH 14, N03 roughly 10ppm, PO4 1ppm, temperature 26/78

Maintenance – 30% Water change weekly, filter cleaning every 2 months, substrate cleaning never

Fish – 7 Harlequin Rasbora, 1 SAE, 7 Amano Shrimp and 2 Cherry Shrimp

Plants – Java Moss attached to stones (Vesicularia dubyana) and a carpet of Glosso (Glossostigma elatinoides)

Decor – Slate rocks

Additional comments – I wanted a simple, relatively low maintenance tank, that would look good. Takashi Amano's tanks were my inspiration

Main problems occured at the very begining, with such little plant biomas and high levels of lighting algae was inevitable. A good supply of algae eaters helps to keep it under control until the Glosso takes off. This tank is now algae free, except for green spot algae appearing on the glass every couple of days.

Without the help and guidence of fellow planted tank members i would never have achieved this tank. Thanks to everyone who helped me along the way. I've learned alot!!!!

Paul

Tank – juwel record 60ltr/14gal (UK) dimensions 24” * 12” * 12”

Filtration – ehime’s aqua ball with spray bar mod, 50watt heater at the side of it.

Lighting – 1 * 15watt tube plus 1 * 18watt tube (giving me around 2.3 watt per gal)

CO2 – None at moment, did have it on but had a disaster killing my fish (waiting for a needle valve)

Substrate – 6kg silver sand

Fertilisation – 5ml of seachem flourish, 1ppm PO4 and 3ppm NO3 once a week (after water change) i was dosing per the EI method but stopped until i get mt co2 set up)

Maintenance– vac sand once a week when I do my 50% water change, with r/o/tap water mixed at a rate of 2 parts tap to 3 parts r/o ( I do the same time as my 96ltr planted tank and mix two big buckets of water, which is enough to do both).

Filters sponges are cleaned once a month (in tank water) very little maintains is needed on this tank.

Fish –
1 male killfish,
6 Harlequin Rasbora (Rasbora heteromorpha)
2 bronze corys

Plants –
Vallisneria spiralis ''Tiger'' (back left)
Microsorum pteropus ' (java fern) (left attached to bogwood)
Vesicularia dubyana (attached to bogwood)
Anubias barteri var. nana (back middle attached to bogwood)
Cryptocoryne beckettii (front right and left)
Elocharis Vivpara (hairgrass)

Decor – bogwood.

Additional comments – I've been playing around with this tanks a lot lately, I've added an extra light giving me 2.3wpg i also added pressurized co2, but unfortuanly i didn't have a needle valve to regulate it so the pressure rise with the heat killing four fish, one of them being a peppered cory I've had since the beginning i could of killed myself but there you go.

A the the moment I'm waiting for my dad who is an engineer to make me a needle valve to control the flow of co2 properly, which will Be diffused through a JBL spiral diffuser ( i want to change it for a glass ceramic type later).

I've replaced the java moss carpet at the front with Elocharis Vivpara (hairgrass) i want a lawn effect so i thought I'd give it a go.
I waiting for it to establish it's self, and then i'm hoping i can keep it lowish by simply trimming it with scissors.
I'll see how it go's, if it dose not work i might try riccia instead assuming i have enough light.


UPDATED:more resent pics 26/2/06 and info.

Jeremy's Fully Planted 29G Bowfront.



Tank – 29US Gallons, approx 110Litres

Filtration – Fluval 205 External canister filter

Lighting – x3 Energy saving compact fluroscent bulbs of 5000K color temp (20 watts, 18 watts, and 25 watts).
x1 15 watt Hagen Life-glo of 6700K color temperature.

CO2 – Pressurized CO2 system constiting of a CO2 bottle, an Aquamedic "Regular" regulator, and a DIY bubble counter.
Method of injection is through my filter inlet, where the CO2 bubbles are sucked into the filter and the gas dissolved in the external filter. Running at approx 1 bps. CO2 reading kept at approx 30 or 30+ ppm.
I also have a JBL permanant CO2/kH indicator in the tank for me to keep an eye out for overdosing and underdosing... very convienient, but does not give an exact CO2 reading.

Substrate – Normal Black Gravel from my LFS. Substrate has Tetra "Initialsticks" for plant fertilisation. When I can remember I also push into the substrate tabs of Tetra "Cryptomin", though I only need to do this around the sagitarius now.
Substrate depth varies from around 3-4 inches at the back to approx 2-3 inches at the front.

Fertilisation – No fertilisation routine, so no frewuent fertilisation. Only when I can remember or when i see plants turning a pale green do I dose the instructed amount of JBL "Ferropol" liquid fertiliser.

Water chemistry – pH= 6.8 to 7
kH= 7
gH= 21
Temperature= 27-28C

Maintenance – 30% Water changes once every 2 weeks.
Filter Maintainance- Unknown yet as I just installed my new Fluval 205 a few days ago.
Substrate vacuuming- very rarely, maybe once a month.
I clean the glass every 2-3 days to keep it clear of algea.
Water top-up every day, as my tank is an open top, water evaporates extra fast.

Fish – x11 Cardinal tetras, x4 Threadfin Rainbows, x3 Apistogramma Borelis (Yellow face and Opal), x1 True Siamese algea eater, x4 Kuhli loaches, x3 Amano shrimp, and x4 Ottocincluses.

Plants –
1- Java Fern (Microsorum pteropus), very easy to take care of, and grows quite fast under bright light. Many plantlets from on the adult leaves. Pearls alot with CO2 injection.
2- Java Fern "Windelov" (Microsorum pteropus "windelov"), same requirements as the normal Java fern, but with more beautiful leaves.
3- Moss, unsure of type, probably Taiwan moss. (Vesicularia sp.)
4- Dwarf Sagitaria (Sagitaria Subulata). Spreads rapidly by runners. Substrate feeder, so ensure that you have a nutritious subrate. Another easy-moderate plant to take care of.
5- Straight vallis (Vallisneria spiralis). A nice, narrow leafed Vallisneria. Also a root feeder and so requires a nutritious substrate. Under such conditions and CO2, it spreads very fast by runners similar to the Sagitaria.
6- Glossostigma (Glossostigma elatinoides). Under ideal conditions (high light, CO2, and a nutritious substate), this plant spreads very fast by runners. They stay low and carpets very beautifully. Growth may be over existing leaves and so the carpet thickens, thus shading out the bottom leaves. Requires trimming by pulling carpets that are too thick out, and replanting.

Decor – Bogwood and stones.

Additional comments – I set this tank up in June-July of last year when I got back from university summer holidays. My last tank, which i left running over the 2 month holiday turned into an algea pool. That was only a 15G.
I think my tank started to flourish and grow more beautiful after the addition of CO2, I used to use DIY setups for CO2 but i converted to pressurized a while ago (approx 5 months) and its been great ever since.

I used to keep Red-nosed shrimp in the tank along with my amanos, but later found that my moss strands keep turning into just the stalks, all the leaves were gone, and my java fern leaves were being chewed on the sides so that they were very narrow. I asked on this forum whether it couldve been the Red-nosed shrimp and it turns out that I was right. Red-Nosed shrimp have an appetite for plants as well, though not alot of it. I later got rid of the red-nosed shrimps.

I used to have a carpet of Glosso, but decided that it was too much maintainance, and that the next summer holidays, when I will be away for a good 2-3 months, the glosso may get out of hand, so I converted to simple moss carpets, which are much easier to maintain.

thanks for looking.
Jeremy

Llj's 15g high. How many colors can you cram into a tank?

Tank – 15g US high, (20"x18"x10")

Filtration – External HOB filter, Aquaclear 30, Media: 3 sponges

Lighting – 2 Coralife 28W double T5 Freshwater light fixtures, 6500-6700K.

CO2 – Nutrafin CO2 reactor with DIY yeast mixture changed 2x a week, 30+ppm, Nutrafin bubble ladder, 1 bubble every 2 seconds.

Substrate – Plain natural aquarium gravel, between 3-5mm, originally slanted back to front, but now kind of side to side with 2" depth on left and 1" depth on right. Add 6 Seachem root tabs every 3 month, evenly distributed in the tank. In Miami, FL this tank will have a substrate change to small, black gravel with laterite as a bottom layer.

Fertilisation – Use the EI method of fertilisation. 5mL of Nitrogen dosed on day 1, 3, and 5. 3.5mL of Potassium dosed on day 1 and 5. 3.5mL of Fe dosed on day 4. 3.5mL of Phosphate dosed on day 5. 4mL of Trace dosed on days 2 and 6. I use liquid fertilisers made by Seachem, not practical for large tanks, but for my small aquariums, very convenient.

Water chemistry – pH 6.8, kH 8 or so, haven't tested in a while for Nitrates or Phosphate. Temperature varies between 78F in the Winter in IL and 82F in the Summer. In Miami, it will be maintained at 78F.

Maintenance – Weekly 50% water change which usually includes rinsing the filter media, pruning stem plants, wiping the glass, and vacumning the bottom of detrius.

Fish – 9 Rasbora heteromorpha, 8 Corydoras pygmaeus, 4 Colisa sota

Plants – Myriophyllum aquaticum, Rotala rotundifolia, Rotala macrandra, Egeria najas, Glossostigma elatinoides, Alternanthera reineckii, Lemna minor (occasional visitor, often removed), Cryptocryne wendtii red, Cryptocryne willisii, lutea, or parva (not entirely sure on that one), Nymphaea lotus zenkeri var. 'Red',
Lysimachia nummularia

Decor – 3 small pieces of Mopani driftwood.

Additional comments–

This tank was setup in August of 2003 and has survived two tornados, toddlers dumping an entire container of fish food inside, 3 instances of severe Holiday tank neglect by party assigned to care for tank, a severe infestation of BGA, and Greenwater. The tank has been seriously planted for 8 months. I converted to CO2 injection in September of 2005, and started using EI in early February, I think, to combat BGA.

The BGA was taken care of by converting to the EI method. It took a few weeks but it went a way. The Greenwater was eliminated by doing a 3-day blackout. It has undergone numerous layout changes and modifications. It has been a challenge to light and aquascape this tank, and I was told by numerous friends and LFS managers that this tank shape was "useless" for serious planting because of its height and limited size.

Tank – Juwel record Volume 22gal , Dimensions 800mm x 400mm x 300mm

Filtration – atman 3338 (over kill) alfogrg/foam/filter floss

Lighting – 3 * 24 watt T5 tubes 14000K ( 72watts = 3.2wpg)

CO2 – 3.5kg pressurized, JBL regulator, diffused by a glass ceramic diffuser at 1 bubble per sec.
Substrate – 15kg black splintered glass, 6kg of tetra complete, 2kg of seacheam laurite (depth 2”)

Fertilisation – EI scedual:

Potassium nitrate10ml = 10ppm 4times a week
Mono potassium phosphate as and when required ( don’t need to dose PO4 due to high content in tap water)
Potassium sulphate1 * 5ml measuring spoon once a week to top up what it receives from the potassium nitrate.

Trace mineral mix from aqua essential 10ml 3 times a week

Water chemistry –
PH…....6.4
KH…...5.5’
GH…...9’
NO3...20/25ppm
PO4.…3ppm after a water change dropping to 1.5/2ppm at the end of the week.

Maintenance – i do a 50% water change as per the ei method, using 3 parts r/o to 2 parts dechlorinate tap water, i avoid cleaning the gravel to much but i do suck up larger particles if seen.
the filter is cleaned out once every 3 months.

Any pruning is done during water change, glass is cleaned as and when required.

Fish – about half a dozen platts and growing
12 rummy nose tetras.
2 albino red fin sharks.
About 4 amino shrimp.

Plants –
Echinodorus angustifolius
Echinodorus tenellus
Hemianthus micranthemoides
Hemianthus Callitrichoedes
Anubias Nana Var Nana
Microsorum pteropus ''Narrow'' (java fern)
Vesicularia dubyana (java moss)
Eusteralis stellata
Rotala sp. Nanjenshan
Bacopa monnieri

Decor – 8 pieces of bogwood and driftwood

Additional comments – view the tanks journal here

Plants: Front Left: Limnophila heterophylla. At the back: Crinum thaianum. On log: Microsorium pteropus. Front right: Echinodorus magdalenensis. Under log: Rotala wallichii. Back Right: Micranthemum umbrosum

Tank: Via Aqua VA380 10 UK gals, 11.89 US gals, 45 litres.

Filtration: Standard filter came with tank. Fitted in hood. Filter wool, sponge, cermic tube media

Lighting: Standard lighting came with tank. 11w so just over 1WPG in total.

CO2: None yet

Substrate: 1 - 3mm round, natural gravel. Depth to 5cm in places.

Fertilisation: Tetra Plant "PlantaMin" every 4 weeks.

Water chemistry: Will add later tonight. temp: 26 degrees celcius

Maintenance: 20% weekly water change. Weekly gravel vac. Filter wool cleaned weekly. Filter sponge monthly. Filter tank apart and thoroughly cleaned ever 3months.

Fish: 4 Harlequin Rasboras, 4 Pygmaeus cories

Decor: 1 piece of mopani wood.

Tank has been set up for 4 months now. Had twisted vallis and riccia on a piece of slate at one point but both browned and died fairly quickly. Thai onion plants at back grow like weeds. Currently have a small hair algae problem but think this is due to increased temp. due to hot weather recently. Tank has been at 29 degress celcius + for a week or so. Rotala Wallichii is a new addition and i'm not sure how well it's going to cope under log with little light. Wanted something with some red in it for contrast and to fill gap where you could see heater.

Tank - 3.5g - 12"x8"x8"

Filtration - Fluval 1 + , normal sponge , with spraybar.

Lighting - halogen 35w.

CO2 - Yeast bottle.

Substrate - silver sand, 1"-3" deep, depending on where in the tank.

Fertilisation - none used.

Water chemistry - pH 7 , KH 7, GH don't know, NO3 20-30ppm, PO4 don't know, temperature, 27c-30c at times

Maintenance - Water change schedule ; 75% once a week sometimes more often - filter cleaning ; when tank is cleaned 'squeesed' in old tank water - substrate cleaning ; stirred and debris removed by gravel vac.

Fish - 2 killifish (Fundulopanchax gardneri).

Plants - sorry quite new to plants so not to sure, java ferns , java moss, a crypt sp., Amazon swords, green tiger lotus, twisted vallis and a crypt wendtii

Decor - 3 pieces of bogwood.

Additional comments - I was expecting huge algae problems but tank was running for a long time without the plecs and there were no problems at all.



Please PM me comments.

Tank: 30 US Gallons / 114 litres Dimensions 24" x 20" x 28" / 60cm x 50cm x 45cm

Filtration: Eheim Professional II 2126 thermo filled with efisubstrate/filter pillow

Lighting: Arcadi Luminaire 4 x T5 Plant pro lamps @ 24 watt each total 96 watt

CO2: Jbl pressurized system with PH controller. Glass/ceramic diffuser. 3-4 BPS

Substrate: Red Sea Flora base 3" deep with heater cable

Fertilization: Plant Nutrition + (TMG) 5 ml per 50 liters weekly after water change as well as a half dose every other day!

Water chemistry: Ph7, KH 5 stopped measuring GH etc long ago!

Maintenance: 50% Weekly water change using RO water

Fish: 5 Ottocinclus Affinis, 10 Cardinia Japonica, 8 N.Mortenthaleri

Plants: Echinodorus 'Oriental', Sagitaria Subulata, Rotala Wallichi, Hemianthus Micranthemoides, Nymphaea Lotus, Hygrophylia Polysperma, Riccia Fluitans, Anubias Nana 'Petite', Microsorium pteropus, Micranthumum Umbrosum, Cryptocoryne Wendtii 'Green', Versicularia Dubyana

Decor: Sumatra Wood, 1 rock

Additional comments:

My first go at a Hi tech planted aquarium having kept all sorts of fish for many years including Inc Marine fish and corals. No algae problems to speak of as such. Problems only after neglecting the pruning resulting in the foreground plants growing too tall due to insufficient light! Started to get a nice Glossostigma carpet but it eventually all grew upwards.

Had some trouble in Keeping PH where I wanted it! Found I had to really up the gas to keep it at 6.8 Despite KH5 and limited surface agitation.