Pearl Danios scales are sticking up

Hi,

I have 6 pearl danios, and I noticed a moment ago that one of them has his scales all sticking up a bit - kind of like the hairs on the back of a dog's neck do when it is aggressive.

One of the scales appears to have a small white fungal growth under it. As usual it is murder trying to get a photograph of the fish in question, but here goes...

On the top photo, you can just make out how the scales are sticking out (in this case on his belly). On the second photo you can see his white spot.





Any idea what causes the scales to stick out like that?

Cheers,

Stephen.

Sadly to say once a fish showns sign of stiicking out scales that the last stage of dropsy and there is no cure, i would issolate the fish don't want him dying in the tank.

Not the writer of this information below.



Dropsy



Symptoms:

This disease is very common among African Cichlids, and is commonly called "Malawi Bloat," even though it affects fish from Lakes Tanganyika and Victoria. Dropsy is also very common within the Carp family and among Anabantids. It is characterized by swelling of the body and especially abdomen, which causes the scales to stand out with a pine cone appearance. Eyes may protrude or cave in. Reddening at the vent and/or base of fins may be observable as well as body ulcers and long pale feces. In advanced cases, skin discoloration and scale loss may also occur. Sick fish will not show any desire for food. They will often hang near the bottom, resting on the gravel, or at the top, gasping for air. In the latter stages of this disease, the fish may lose its equilibrium and hence ability to swim properly.



Cause:

Three main causes for Dropsy have been identified. The over use of salt (NaCl), prolonged exposure to poor water conditions, and improper diet, which lead to a parasitic infection. Other causes include poisoning, internal injuries and cancerous tumors. The swelling is not the disease itself, but rather a symptom, which is caused by a build-up of fluids in the body cavity due to internal organ failure.



Treatment:

Treatment of this disease is difficult, as by the time it is recognized, permanent damage to the internal organs of the fish will have occurred. Immediate treatment must be performed if there is to be any chance for survival. Metronidazole (Flagyl) and or Clout are the best medications for treatment of Dropsy. Notwithstanding, not much is known for certain about the etiology of this disease and some experienced aquarists use antibiotics to fight Dropsy. For oxytetracycline, baths of 20-100 mg/litre for five days is suggested. For tetracycline hydrochloride, treat with baths of 40-100 mg/litre for five days. And for minocycline hydrochloride a dilution of 250mg/10 gallons of water is recommended. On day 2 change all the water and add the medicine again at the same dose for another 2 days. Increase aeration during treatment. Do not use minocycline a third time in a row. Caution: tetracyclines are photo sensitive so turn the tank lights off during treatment and cover the whole tank with a blanket. If the fish is still eating, you can soak the food in a concentrated solution of the antibiotic before feeding.

You can read more about this disease, treatment, and how to prevent it in the future by reading our article: Malawi Bloat.

Oh dear - that sounds grim. The strange thing is he seem as active as ever - not off his food or anything. Water conditions are good, though I had been treating the tank for whitespot (using half doses die to my Clown Loaches).

Is it contagious? I will isolate him, but I don't have a second tank so it would be an isolation net job as long as it doesn't put the other fish at risk.

Thanks,

Stephen.

Only contagious if the other fish peck on the dead body, so i would put him in a net if you have no issolation tank, could try an epson salt bath to help try and draw the fluids out, also some shelled peas while he's in the net.

Thanks for the quick response - I'll see how he goes.

Cheers,

Stephen.