Am I screwed?

So, I bought a fluval 307 recently. Luckily it was second hand and only 45 euro.

I was setting it up today when I noticed the crack, as seen in the photos.

I'm guessing that it is no longer functional, right?

Or does the area within, where the crack is, even hold water/serve any function, or is it dead space.

Could I possibly salvage it?

The guy I bought it from was a gentleman, so I don't think he sold it in a broken state, but at the same time, I have no idea how it broke. Possibly when I was trying to close the latches as they can be a bit finicky. If that's how it happened though, I would've surely heard the crack, but I didn't.

'He was a gentleman'
My mom bought a car off a "gentleman", turns out he hid many things that weren't done, were broken and that were soon to break. Irrelevant, but just pointing out the fact that many people pretend

Anyways, I personally go by a rule that if something mechanical is broken I would get it replaced. Either the part or the whole thing.
Sorry it broke tho

Jinx_ said:

'He was a gentleman'
My mom bought a car off a "gentleman", turns out he hid many things that weren't done, were broken and that were soon to break. Irrelevant, but just pointing out the fact that many people pretend

Anyways, I personally go by a rule that if something mechanical is broken I would get it replaced. Either the part or the whole thing.
Sorry it broke tho

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That's a fair point, but he was genuine and on the website I found it on, has 800+ positive reviews.

RE the mechanical point, the part that is broken isn't exactly mechanical. I believe the only moving part is the impeller. I'll have to see if this section holds water or not, as I'm not sure it does. Someone in the know might have a better idea though.

Test run it, see if it's water tight. If it is not, drain it, let it dry, and then attempt to seal it with some aquarium safe silicone. Let it cure for 72 hours. Then leak test it again.


I like to keep my canisters in totes, helps detect possible leaks should they ever happen, but will be a good idea for you as well for leak testing

I had a look on the online shops I use based in the EU for a possible replacement and had no luck.. but I did find this place


But looks like you'd pay more for a new head than the 45 euro you already paid for the entire filter I'd definitely try fixing it yourself first though

CassCats said:

Test run it, see if it's water tight. If it is not, drain it, let it dry, and then attempt to seal it with some aquarium safe silicone. Let it cure for 72 hours. Then leak test it again.


I like to keep my canisters in totes, helps detect possible leaks should they ever happen, but will be a good idea for you as well for leak testing

Click to expand...

I just want to enjoy an aquarium already!

I bought it nearly a year ago, at a very good second hand price. For one reason or another I am icky getting it up and running now.

I thought that this new (to me) filter would be a simple plug and play and away we go. I have a 207 as well, that came included in the tank and stand price of 150 euro. The pipes were a bit stiff and the lever on the aquastop broke slightly.

That's what I bought this 307. For 45 euro, it's a bargain. Especially when you consider the price of pipes alone.

But alas, it's not turned out how I had hoped.

I'll be ordering some silicon but fuer looking at it again, I'm not optimistic at all. See pics attached.

MattW said:

I had a look on the online shops I use based in the EU for a possible replacement and had no luck.. but I did find this place

Fluval Pump Head 307

www.aquaristikshop.com

But looks like you'd pay more for a new head than the 45 euro you already paid for the entire filter I'd definitely try fixing it yourself first though

Click to expand...

I've seen that place before. For the replacement, it would be 85 euro, as its 20 euro for shipping.

Luckily I have a 207 that I got with the tank when I bought it, also second hand. Reason for buying this 307 was because the aquastop lever broke, slightly, on the 207. As well as the fact the pipes were gone a bit too stiff etc. I was getting a bargain on the 307, as pipes alone are 25 euro, ish, and I would've had to buy a new aquastop valve, also 25 euro.

Now though, it might just cost more after all.

The head does not see running water so as long as the motor runs and the top seals correctly to the canister you will be ok. Magnets are used to turn the propeller. Test it in your bath tub if you are unsure Just make sure that the intake is in water (i normally use a 5 gallon pail for such so the intake and outtake are in the pail and the filter is in the bathtub in case it has a leak.

do not muck with it with glue.

anewbie said:

The head does not see running water so as long as the motor runs and the top seals correctly to the canister you will be ok. Magnets are used to turn the propeller. Test it in your bath tub if you are unsure Just make sure that the intake is in water (i normally use a 5 gallon pail for such so the intake and outtake are in the pail and the filter is in the bathtub in case it has a leak.

do not muck with it with glue.

Click to expand...

That's what I was thinking (hoping). So that area where the crack is, is just dead space?

Looks like it's a matter of testing it out anyway before making and decisions.

Post a picture showing the entire filter with the crack.
If it's just the motor case and it doesn't extend into the impellor area, it should be fine. The only area of the motor that has water going through it is the impellor cavity and into the hoses. The actual electrical components in the motor are sealed in a plastic resin so water can't get into it.

If the hoses become hard on the filter, buy some plastic hose from a hardware to replace them.

This Video will show you how to dismantle the Head, So you can use Water Proof Epoxy to fix the lid.

Make sure you push the broken piece in place so it is as close as original as possible. Once bonded use aquarium silicone to make sure the joint is watertight.

This is perfectly salvageable.