Beginner queries!

Hello, I recently acquired the Aqua Nano 60 tank and I have had this running for 3 days now. The tank currently houses 4 mollys and 4 platys. I mainly have some queries as I am new to the hobby and want to ensure I am doing everything possible to give the fish a happy and healthy life in the tank.

My queries are as follows:

1.) How often should I be feeding the fish? I have been doing this once a day and providing them with 3 pellets each (as advised by the store). However, I just want to check this is ok and is not over feeding the fish.

2.) the tank comes with a built in filtration system and pump. The pump is currently pointed towards the surface of the water to increase water movement. However, the pump also comes with a Venturi attachment. Is the Venturi necessary or can I continue with the pump as is?

3.) Will I require any air rocks for additional oxygenation or will the pump suffice?

4.) How often should I be testing the water? I’ve tested a few times so far and all parameters seem ok. However, I have only been using strips and not the lab test kits. Is it worth switching to the lab kit for more accurate results?

5.) when do you recommended my first water change and also any cleaning of the filter? I seem to have mixed opinions as some people suggest leaving those while the tank cycles and the beneficial bacteria increases. However, some people suggest a 25% water change after 2 weeks.

Apologies for the long and probably very amateur questions. However, I want to learn along the way and ensure I can do the best I can for this new hobby and also ensure rhe fish live a healthy life!

Thanks all,

Joe

If you've only had the tank three days and already have fish, you are doing a fish-in cycle.
Cycling is the process of growing bacteria which eat the harmful waste from the fish. The first thing which builds up in a fish-in cycle is ammonia, but strip testers don't test for that. I suggest you buy either a strip tester for ammonia, or a liquid test kit which includes both ammonia and nitrite, the two killers.
The first part of this link explains what cycling is, but ignore the second part as that's for growing the bacteria before fish are put in the tank.
Whenever ammonia and/or nitrite read above zero, you need to do a water change to get them down to zero, every day if necessary.

JoeFinn1997 said:

1.) How often should I be feeding the fish? I have been doing this once a day and providing them with 3 pellets each (as advised by the store). However, I just want to check this is ok and is not over feeding the fish.

Click to expand...

During a fish-in cycle, feed them once every two or even three days. The less food they have, the slower ammonia and nitrite rise. Doing a water change a few hours after feeding will also help keep the levels low.

JoeFinn1997 said:

2.) the tank comes with a built in filtration system and pump. The pump is currently pointed towards the surface of the water to increase water movement. However, the pump also comes with a Venturi attachment. Is the Venturi necessary or can I continue with the pump as is?

Click to expand...

You don't need the venturi. Bubbles are mainly for the fish keeper. As long as the filter outflow moves water along the tank just under the surface, that's fine. If we have a heatwave like a couple of years ago, maybe use the venturi then as warmer water holds less oxygen.

JoeFinn1997 said:

3.) Will I require any air rocks for additional oxygenation or will the pump suffice?

Click to expand...

Air rocks/stones only help with oxygenation by churning the water up. As before, if the filter outflow is moving the water along, you don't need them.

JoeFinn1997 said:

4.) How often should I be testing the water? I’ve tested a few times so far and all parameters seem ok. However, I have only been using strips and not the lab test kits. Is it worth switching to the lab kit for more accurate results?

Click to expand...

I mentioned fish-is cycling earlier. During this process, you need to test for ammonia and nitrite every day until you are certain the levels are staying at zero. You have only a few fish at the moment, and if you add more in the future it is also sensible to test every day after each addition until you are certain ammonia and nitrite are staying at zero.
Liquid testers are generally reckoned to be more accurate than strips.

JoeFinn1997 said:

5.) when do you recommended my first water change and also any cleaning of the filter? I seem to have mixed opinions as some people suggest leaving those while the tank cycles and the beneficial bacteria increases. However, some people suggest a 25% water change after 2 weeks.

Click to expand...

With a brand new tank like this, until you have something to test ammonia, change half the water every day. Don't clean the filter for 6 weeks unless it gets so clogged that the flow drops significantly.

Yes, not changing the water will allow the bacteria to grow faster but it will also harm the fish. Ammonia burns their skin and gills, and burned gills can't take up as much oxygen as healthy gills. Nitrite binds to the fish's blood cells and stops oxygen attaching. Basically it does to fish what carbon monoxide does to us.

But it is possible to do fewer water changes.
Ammonia exists in two forms in water, toxic ammonia and less toxic ammonium. Our testers test both combined. The amount in each form is pH dependent - at low pH more is in the non-toxic form while at high pH, more is in the toxic form.
Common salt, sodium chloride, can be used to mitigate the effects of nitrite. The chloride part of salt stops nitrite binding to the blood cells.
Details of both are described here




One final thing. Never ever believe anything a shop worker says. Most of them are trained in how to sell things, and this includes making things up if it means a sale. Always do your own research, including asking on here. Many websites also contain mis-information as anyone can set up a website with little or no knowledge. The best site for fish research is Seriously Fish.

Essjay said:

If you've only had the tank three days and already have fish, you are doing a fish-in cycle.
Cycling is the process of growing bacteria which eat the harmful waste from the fish. The first thing which builds up in a fish-in cycle is ammonia, but strip testers don't test for that. I suggest you buy either a strip tester for ammonia, or a liquid test kit which includes both ammonia and nitrite, the two killers.
The first part of this link explains what cycling is, but ignore the second part as that's for growing the bacteria before fish are put in the tank.

Cycling Your New Fresh Water Tank: Read This First!

Cycling Your First Fresh Water Tank What is Cycling and Why is it Important? Fish waste, and especially fish breathing, plus uneaten food and other organic matter breaking down in a tank all produce Ammonia. This can quickly become toxic to fish if it is allowed to build up to any measurable...

www.fishforums.net

Whenever ammonia and/or nitrite read above zero, you need to do a water change to get them down to zero, every day if necessary.



During a fish-in cycle, feed them once every two or even three days. The less food they have, the slower ammonia and nitrite rise. Doing a water change a few hours after feeding will also help keep the levels low.


You don't need the venturi. Bubbles are mainly for the fish keeper. As long as the filter outflow moves water along the tank just under the surface, that's fine. If we have a heatwave like a couple of years ago, maybe use the venturi then as warmer water holds less oxygen.


Air rocks/stones only help with oxygenation by churning the water up. As before, if the filter outflow is moving the water along, you don't need them.


I mentioned fish-is cycling earlier. During this process, you need to test for ammonia and nitrite every day until you are certain the levels are staying at zero. You have only a few fish at the moment, and if you add more in the future it is also sensible to test every day after each addition until you are certain ammonia and nitrite are staying at zero.
Liquid testers are generally reckoned to be more accurate than strips.


With a brand new tank like this, until you have something to test ammonia, change half the water every day. Don't clean the filter for 6 weeks unless it gets so clogged that the flow drops significantly.

Yes, not changing the water will allow the bacteria to grow faster but it will also harm the fish. Ammonia burns their skin and gills, and burned gills can't take up as much oxygen as healthy gills. Nitrite binds to the fish's blood cells and stops oxygen attaching. Basically it does to fish what carbon monoxide does to us.

But it is possible to do fewer water changes.
Ammonia exists in two forms in water, toxic ammonia and less toxic ammonium. Our testers test both combined. The amount in each form is pH dependent - at low pH more is in the non-toxic form while at high pH, more is in the toxic form.
Common salt, sodium chloride, can be used to mitigate the effects of nitrite. The chloride part of salt stops nitrite binding to the blood cells.
Details of both are described here

Rescuing A Fish In Cycle Gone Wild - Part Il

Part II SO YOU STILL WANT TO KEEP CYCLING WITH FISH? If you are determined to ignore the above advice in Part I and still think you want to proceed with a fish in cycle, then you need to be aware of the information presented below. SOME IMPORTANT FACTS ABOUT AMMONIA Ammonia in water exists...

www.fishforums.net

One final thing. Never ever believe anything a shop worker says. Most of them are trained in how to sell things, and this includes making things up if it means a sale. Always do your own research, including asking on here. Many websites also contain mis-information as anyone can set up a website with little or no knowledge. The best site for fish research is Seriously Fish.

Knowledge Base — Seriously Fish

www.seriouslyfish.com

Click to expand...

Thank you. That’s very helpful. I appreciate the prompt responses. You are correct that the test strips seem to exclude ammonia. They do include Nitrate and Nitrite though which have been showing as zero so far. However, I do have a JBL combiset test kit also that includes NH4 testing so I will try this today and see what the results of that bring.

If the results for Ammonia and Nitrite are showing as zero then how often would you suggest a water change being required?

If they are both zero, weekly 40 to 50% changes. After 6 weeks, wash the filter media in water taken out during a water change when brown goo builds up.

We have an excellent article on water changes written by one of our expert members.

JoeFinn1997 said:

1.) How often should I be feeding the fish? I have been doing this once a day and providing them with 3 pellets each (as advised by the store). However, I just want to check this is ok and is not over feeding the fish.

Click to expand...

Once a day is plenty for most fish. They're cold blooded. Which means they don't need the calories to maintain their body temperature. Make sure you give them fasting days. At least one or two a week. That helps their digestive system clear out. And variety is important too. Alternate between high quality prepared foods and you might want to consider frozen or live foods.

JoeFinn1997 said:

3.) Will I require any air rocks for additional oxygenation or will the pump suffice?

Click to expand...

Probably not necessary.

JoeFinn1997 said:

4.) How often should I be testing the water? I’ve tested a few times so far and all parameters seem ok. However, I have only been using strips and not the lab test kits. Is it worth switching to the lab kit for more accurate results?

Click to expand...

The liquid tests are more accurate and you get more tests for your money. After your tank is cycled, you might want to test periodically to make sure that your parameters are ok. But you should keep up with water changes regardless. A good water change schedule and you won't even need to test.

JoeFinn1997 said:

5.) when do you recommended my first water change and also any cleaning of the filter? I seem to have mixed opinions as some people suggest leaving those while the tank cycles and the beneficial bacteria increases. However, some people suggest a 25% water change after 2 weeks.

Click to expand...

Water changes don't affect the cycle. The beneficial bacteria don't live in the water colunm. They live on surfaces in the aquarium, particularly the filter media.

JoeFinn1997 said:

Apologies for the long and probably very amateur questions. However, I want to learn along the way and ensure I can do the best I can for this new hobby and also ensure rhe fish live a healthy life!

Thanks all,

Joe

Click to expand...

Don't apologize. You're doing it for the welfare of your fish and we don't mind helping.

I’ve noticed today that my fish tank water has gone cloudy (when it’s been very clear since I started the tank). I’ve tested the parameters and everything is fine apart from the PH which seems to have dropped drastically. I had a PH of around 7.5 and now the PH is testing below the minimum range on the API liquid test.

I assume this is a problem that needs fixing so my question is how do I ensure this is fixed asap?

I’ve done a 25% water change as soon as I noticed the cloudiness.

Thanks

I will let others with more experience fact check me, but in the meantime: Since you are in the middle of a fish-in cycle, cloudy water might just be a sign of a bacterial bloom and a good sign. The beneficial bacteria you need in your tank are multiplying

Do you have a Master test kit ?

While the bacteria are beneficial they can cause oxygen lowering / depletion. Make sure you have ample water surface movement.

Check you ammonia and nitrite readings. Keep them under bearable level for your fish.

wgoldfarb said:

cloudy water might just be a sign of a bacterial bloom and a good sign. The beneficial bacteria you need in your tank are multiplying

Click to expand...

Bloom bacteria are not the ones we want to grow, I'm afraid.

Bloom bacteria 'eat' carbon based food; filter bacteria 'eat' nitrogen based food - ammonia and nitrite.
Bloom bacteria live floating in the water; filter bacteria live bound to surfaces.
Bloom bacteria multiply very quickly; filter bacteria take hours to multiply.

Because they live floating in the water we see bloom bacteria as cloudiness. Because they multiply so quickly, water changes can't keep up with them. The good news is that once they've eaten all their food they die and the water clears.


Another cause of cloudiness is dust in the substrate. Some substrates have a lot of dust and take a lot of washing before use to get rid of the dust.




Have you tested your tap water pH? You need to test a sample of freshly run water, then leave a glass of tap water to stand overnight and test it again. Maybe leave it a couple of days and test every day.
The pH can change on standing. It can increase if tap water has a lot of carbon dioxide dissolved in it. CO2 lowers the pH and when it gasses out on standing the pH rises. In some places the natural pH is low which can cause corrosion in water pipes so the water provider adds something to raise the pH in the pipes. This also gasses off on standing and the pH falls.

Essjay said:

Bloom bacteria are not the ones we want to grow, I'm afraid.

Click to expand...

Wow, I did not know this.... at some point someone told me that the cloudiness was a good sign and I guess at the time it made sense to me. Thanks for the info, I stand corrected!

Essjay said:

Bloom bacteria are not the ones we want to grow, I'm afraid.

Bloom bacteria 'eat' carbon based food; filter bacteria 'eat' nitrogen based food - ammonia and nitrite.
Bloom bacteria live floating in the water; filter bacteria live bound to surfaces.
Bloom bacteria multiply very quickly; filter bacteria take hours to multiply.

Because they live floating in the water we see bloom bacteria as cloudiness. Because they multiply so quickly, water changes can't keep up with them. The good news is that once they've eaten all their food they die and the water clears.


Another cause of cloudiness is dust in the substrate. Some substrates have a lot of dust and take a lot of washing before use to get rid of the dust.




Have you tested your tap water pH? You need to test a sample of freshly run water, then leave a glass of tap water to stand overnight and test it again. Maybe leave it a couple of days and test every day.
The pH can change on standing. It can increase if tap water has a lot of carbon dioxide dissolved in it. CO2 lowers the pH and when it gasses out on standing the pH rises. In some places the natural pH is low which can cause corrosion in water pipes so the water provider adds something to raise the pH in the pipes. This also gasses off on standing and the pH falls.

Click to expand...

The water is still cloudy today. Not sure if there is anything I can do to clear this/speed up the process?

No, there's nothing you can do. It's a question of waiting till all their food is gone and this varies from tank to tank - and water supplier to water supplier. Even water changes don't help because they multiply so fast.

If it's dust from the substrate that usually settles quite quickly and using fine filter wool/floss in the filter can catch a lot of dust, though not the very fine dust.

wgoldfarb said:

Wow, I did not know this.... at some point someone told me that the cloudiness was a good sign and I guess at the time it made sense to me. Thanks for the info, I stand corrected!

Click to expand...

It's not good or bad. It's just normal.