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PH and red gills

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BigAznDaddy

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Hi,

I think I know the issue but wanted to check here. I think my issue is high PH impacting the fish. I didn't pay attention to the substrate previously and I think it might be one that increases the PH. Things seemed to be going fine and I added all the background stem plants a few months back. About 1 month back i noticed red gills on my fish. I tried increasing the water change amount and medications but it didn't seem to really help things. I have read that overnight the plants can increase the PH of the tank. I've noticed that the fish do seem to get worse overnight but I'm not 100%. For now I'm going to try to reduce PH chemically and grab some peat moss. I think ultimately i need to replace the substrate but any other thoughts would help. Thanks

Tank size: 50 gal
tank age: 11 months
pH: 8
ammonia: 0
nitrite:0
nitrate: 5ppm
kH: ~ 120
gH: ~200
tank temp: 76


Fish Symptoms (include full description including lesion, color, location, fish behavior): Red gills, gasping, corys often surface breathing

Volume and Frequency of water changes: past 2 months 20% each week

Chemical Additives or Media in your tank: I think substrate is the issue. might be crushed coral or limestone

Tank inhabitants: 8 rummy nose, 10 glolight danios, 1honey red gourami, 8 corys, 3 amano

Recent additions to your tank (living or decoration): added lots of stem plants 2 months ago and glowlights about 1 month back replacing some black phantom tetras that were previously in the tank

Exposure to chemicals:

Digital photo (include if possible): setup and substrate. only had anubias previously so most plants are from last few months
 

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BigAznDaddy said:
For now I'm going to try to reduce PH chemically
Click to expand...

NO! This is not likely to work (I'll explain below) and it can easily kill the fish.

Can you post on all substances/additives being used, including conditioner, plant fertilizers, and anything else.

What is the pH and GH and KH of the tap water on its own? If not already known (note, tap water, not tank water here) check the website of your water authority. When testing pH of tap water you need to ensure any CO2 is outgassed or the reading may be off.

When doing water changes, do you vacuum into the substrate?

I'll have more with the above data posted.
 
Byron is correct. Also did you by chance miss dechlorinating the water? Could be a chemical burn
 
Can you post on all substances/additives being used, including conditioner, plant fertilizers, and anything else. API Stress coat as water conditioner, AQ-coop Easy Green 5-6 pumps weekly, Easy iron 1 pump weekly. Did use seachem excel for a little 2 months ago but stopped when i realized it was mainly for algae.

What is the pH and GH and KH of the tap water on its own? If not already known (note, tap water, not tank water here) check the website of your water authority. When testing pH of tap water you need to ensure any CO2 is outgassed or the reading may be off. Tap is pretty hard which is why i started using RO water mixed about 1 month ago. PH 7.6 GH 300 KH 150. When i mixed i tried to put in 120 GH and KH Here is the county measures https://www.sandiego.gov/sites/default/files/annual_drinking_water_quality_report_online.pdf

When doing water changes, do you vacuum into the substrate? Yes i did but after added plants cut back a bit. 1 out of 3 changes i'll do some vacuuming

I'll have more with the above data posted.
 
Last edited:
I have high PH I cant bring down and my fish do not have bad gills... It could be from something other than the PH?
 
for medications i've tried Prazipro, Maracyn, API General cure, expel p. I just grabbed some gram-negative antibiotic flake. i run the wave maker for additional flow and to try to clear detritus, about 250 GPH. I also have started running an airstone at night. No CO2
 
here are some of the fish.
 

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Some observations from the data in recent posts.

If you mix RO and tap water, fine, but it must be consistent every water change. GH and pH (and temperature).

The substrate may be calcareous, one way to test is to put a handful or two in a half bucket of RO water and test in 24 hours and 48 hours. Use RO because the tap water has a KH that may influence it.

Do not use any medications unless you are fairly certain of the issue and that the intended medication is the most effective and safe. Many of us have killed more fish with medications that the actual disease, in hindsight. We have some members very experienced in fish ailments (I am not, and I won't guess). The cumulative effect of drugs/medications can harm and even kill fish.

The non-medicinal additives are causing problems for fish, which even if not the direct cause will be indirectly weakening the fish.

Conditioner--Stress Coat has aloe vera which is known to effect fish gills. Change to API's Tap Water Conditioner. It is the most highly concentrated so less is needed, and there are no additives, it deals with just what is needed regarding chlorine/chloramine and heavy metals.

Plant additives--stop the Excel, this is a dangerous disinfectant-derived toxin. Stop the iron, this is a heavy metal and poisonous to fish, plants and bacteria if overdosed, and there is iron in the EasyGreen which will be more than enough. Use the EasyGreen minimally, it does impact fish so as little as possible.

The issue behind all additives: Fish "drink" by taking in water through their cells. Substances dissolved in the water and that are able to diffuse across the cell membrane do, entering the fish's bloodstream and internal organs.
 
Byron said:
Some observations from the data in recent posts.

If you mix RO and tap water, fine, but it must be consistent every water change. GH and pH (and temperature).

The substrate may be calcareous, one way to test is to put a handful or two in a half bucket of RO water and test in 24 hours and 48 hours. Use RO because the tap water has a KH that may influence it.

Do not use any medications unless you are fairly certain of the issue and that the intended medication is the most effective and safe. Many of us have killed more fish with medications that the actual disease, in hindsight. We have some members very experienced in fish ailments (I am not, and I won't guess). The cumulative effect of drugs/medications can harm and even kill fish.

The non-medicinal additives are causing problems for fish, which even if not the direct cause will be indirectly weakening the fish.

Conditioner--Stress Coat has aloe vera which is known to effect fish gills. Change to API's Tap Water Conditioner. It is the most highly concentrated so less is needed, and there are no additives, it deals with just what is needed regarding chlorine/chloramine and heavy metals.

Plant additives--stop the Excel, this is a dangerous disinfectant-derived toxin. Stop the iron, this is a heavy metal and poisonous to fish, plants and bacteria if overdosed, and there is iron in the EasyGreen which will be more than enough. Use the EasyGreen minimally, it does impact fish so as little as possible.

The issue behind all additives: Fish "drink" by taking in water through their cells. Substances dissolved in the water and that are able to diffuse across the cell membrane do, entering the fish's bloodstream and internal organs.
Click to expand...

Thanks i'll stop medication and switch to a different conditioner and see if that helps.
 
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