Cory catfish dying????!?

Okay, so, one of my corys got sick, and i thought it was ick (it still could be this is my first time seeing it). The cory had a white spot that was pretty small when I moved it to a quarantene tank. I got him some medication thats "against fungal infections, skin and gill flukes". I would like to add that it was the only fish showing any type of symptoms. It was very lethargic when i first noticed the spot. Anyways, i moved it to a different tank and started medications straight away, and he seemed to be doing good the first few days, he got more active, he also never had an issue with feeding. It also looked like some sort of white crust was forming over him, i will add those photos as well as from today. The crust was off this morning, and cory turned very pale, for a second i thought it was dead. Its not, but he is swimming around frantically and it looks like he has an open wound. Someone please help?

This is not white spot. White spot (Ich) looks like grains of salt sprinkled over the fish.

It has a sore on its head. It might have scratched itself and it became infected. It doesn't look really bad because there is no red around the wound. The red is blood. But it doesn't look good either.

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What is the name of the medication or what are the ingredients in the medication you have?

How long have you had the fish?
How long has the fish had the sore?

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You can try salt or a broad spectrum medication that treats fungus and bacteria (not anti-biotics unless you absolutely have to).

Feed the fish more often if it eats. The extra food will help provide it with more nutrition and that can help it fight off diseases better.
Make sure you remove any uneaten food so it doesn't cause water quality problems.

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BEFORE TREATING A TANK
Do the following before treating with medication or salt.

Wipe the inside of the glass down with a clean fish sponge. This removes the biofilm on the glass and the biofilm will contain lots of harmful bacteria, fungus, protozoans and various other microscopic life forms.

Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate. The water change and gravel cleaning will reduce the number of disease organisms in the water and provide a cleaner environment for the fish to recover in. It also removes a lot of the gunk and this means any medication can work on treating the fish instead of being wasted killing the pathogens in the gunk.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it is added to the tank.

Clean the filter if it hasn't been done in the last 2 weeks. However, if the filter is less than 6 weeks old, do not clean it. Wash the filter materials/ media in a bucket of tank water and re-use them. Tip the bucket of dirty water on the garden/ lawn. Cleaning the filter means less gunk and cleaner water with fewer pathogens.

Remove carbon from the filter before treating or it will adsorb the medication and stop it working. You can leave the carbon in the filter if just using salt, but take it out if using chemical medications or anti-biotics.

Increase surface turbulence/ aeration when using salt or medications because they reduce the dissolved oxygen in the water.

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SALT
You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt) or swimming pool salt to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, Bettas & gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.

The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria, fish, plants, shrimp or snails.

After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.

If you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.

When you first add salt, add the salt to a small bucket of tank water and dissolve the salt. Then slowly pour the salt water into the tank near the filter outlet. Add the salt over a couple of minutes.

If there's no improvement after a few days of salt or medication, post more pictures.

okay, so, the wound was pretty small in thr begining so i thought it could be ick, thank you for clarifying. the medication is sera mycopur and it has: acrilavine, cupric chloride, cupric sulfate and aqua purificata ad. I have to be honest i dont know what any of those things are. Its a german product from what i can see, and it was the only thing avaliable in my nearest pet store. Ive had the fish for about 6 months, and the sore spot has been here for 5-6 days? its started small but it got a lot bigger very fast. for the tank its in right now, i did a complete cleaning few days before putting him inside, both filter and the tank itself, however the tank does have some plants that are currently coated in algae (thats another fight ive been having recently), im not sure if that can cause any harm to the fish, usually the agae are harmless to fish right?

maricacirk said:

acrilavine, cupric chloride, cupric sulfate and aqua purificata ad.

Click to expand...

acriflavine, copper and water

acriflavine is like an anti-septic chemical and kills most microscopic things like fungus, bacteria and protozoa.

copper kills external protozoan parasites like white spot, velvet, costia, chilodonella & trichodina.

the water is used to dilute the ingredients and make them into a liquid so you can add so many drops per litre.

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The copper won't do anything to treat this problem but the acriflavine should have helped a bit. If it didn't you will need to try something a little stronger. Perhaps something with a combination of acriflavine, Methylene Blue and Formaldhyde, or something like that. These types of medication should be used in tanks without filters because Methylene Blue will wipe out the filter bacteria and stain everything blue.

Methylene Blue will treat fungus and bacteria.
Formaldehyde kills all sorts of things.
The combination of the 3 ingredients should be enough to kill most things.

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You can also try daily water changes and salt. Do a 75% water change and gravel clean every day for a week. Add salt to the new water when you do the water changes.

Salt is a disinfecting agent and kills most freshwater parasites (not white or velvet), as well as most bacteria and fungus.