Amazon swords going strange 🤔
- Thread starter Antoz
- Start date
Uberhoust
Fish Herder
The most obvious difference is that the new leaves are immersed type of growth as opposed to the emmersed growth form the original leaves have. The color seems a bit off too, not as dark green as they are on my amazons, but I am not that good with diagnosing the plants growth based on the leaves. Mine get some root tabs every so often but other than that are ignored.
@Uberhoust covered the different leaves. Basically the new leaves are underwater leaves and are a different shape to the terrestrial leaves.
The colour is probably from lack of nutrients. A liquid aquarium iron based plant fertiliser would probably help. I used Sera Florena but there are other brands available.
The colour is probably from lack of nutrients. A liquid aquarium iron based plant fertiliser would probably help. I used Sera Florena but there are other brands available.
Antoz
New Member
The extreme length of the submersed leaves (the longer newer leaves) may indicate a lighting issue. Do you have any data on the tank light, such as intensity, spectrum, and duration daily?
Leaving that, the species is Echinodorus grisebachii, and as someone already mentioned the new leaves which appear from the centre of the crown will be the submersed form since the plant is now being cultivated under water. The older outer leaves are the emersed form because nurseries grow these plants emersed (leaves in the air, but roots in water-logged substrate such as the plants would naturally have in their habitats, marshes and bogs, etc) because this is far easier for them and less expense. The extreme length of the new submersed leaves, and especially given their pale colour, suggest they may be growing longer to reach brighter light. You light data will help us here.
To the nutrient issue. The liquid fertilizer pictured should be OK from the ingredients. But there is no doubt that sword plants greatly improve with good substrate tabs. You mention using these, but which brand (this does make a big difference)?
Leaving that, the species is Echinodorus grisebachii, and as someone already mentioned the new leaves which appear from the centre of the crown will be the submersed form since the plant is now being cultivated under water. The older outer leaves are the emersed form because nurseries grow these plants emersed (leaves in the air, but roots in water-logged substrate such as the plants would naturally have in their habitats, marshes and bogs, etc) because this is far easier for them and less expense. The extreme length of the new submersed leaves, and especially given their pale colour, suggest they may be growing longer to reach brighter light. You light data will help us here.
To the nutrient issue. The liquid fertilizer pictured should be OK from the ingredients. But there is no doubt that sword plants greatly improve with good substrate tabs. You mention using these, but which brand (this does make a big difference)?
Antoz
New Member
Thanks very much for the detailed reply , it’s mega appreciated
It’s a Fluval flex 57 aquarium using the lighting included which states as a aqua sky led.
I have it set at full white with half red hue.
12 on 12 off for day/night.
The root tabs I got off ebay being totally honest I have attached a picture. But nothing reallt much info about them on packet.
Would cutting the big leaves at the base be of any help in the situation ?
Many thanks for all the help
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No. Don't cut the leaves off unless they are brown and dead. Leave the green leaves alone. I made a funny
CaptainBarnicles
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Why do you want to cut them? The immersed leaves are supposed to look like that
On the tabs, I've no idea about those, but I will say the data on the package is certainly correct so far as swords being heavy feeders, and "slow-release" is good. But I can't really say yes or no with these.
The light duration is quite long, and I doubt nutrients will be sufficient to match this which may be the answer. I would have the white (added red fine) for 8 hours daily, it can be any 8-hour continuous period, use a time to ensure it is the same each 24-hour period (plants and fish are affected by this). You don't want to be increasing the liquid fertilizer to match more light, it may reult in problem algae, so it is better to reduce the photoperiod.
Colin posted as I was typing and I fully concur...do not cut off any leaves.
The light duration is quite long, and I doubt nutrients will be sufficient to match this which may be the answer. I would have the white (added red fine) for 8 hours daily, it can be any 8-hour continuous period, use a time to ensure it is the same each 24-hour period (plants and fish are affected by this). You don't want to be increasing the liquid fertilizer to match more light, it may reult in problem algae, so it is better to reduce the photoperiod.
Colin posted as I was typing and I fully concur...do not cut off any leaves.
Antoz
New Member
Ah ok I was only thinking as they flopping over and going yellow. And blocking light from hitting plants underneath. This plant lark is all new to me
and so much mixed things on web. So thought ask here to people who doing it on the day in day outAntoz
New Member
Thanks very much for this Byron very helpful , I will follow those steps and bring the daylight down.
Very kind of you to take time to help sir
CaptainBarnicles
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It's just converting to its underwater form and will take a little while to adjust, as long as you've got decent root tabs (I recommend seachem flourish) they'll do OK 
Antoz
New Member
Oh that’s great thanks very much captainbarnicles,It's just converting to its underwater form and will take a little while to adjust, as long as you've got decent root tabs (I recommend seachem flourish) they'll do OK
I’ll get some of those ones in there as well.
Mega thanks for the input
CaptainBarnicles
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Found this pic online, this is what you're aiming for
Antoz
New Member
Oh yes now that looks lovely all healthy and green.
I’ll just concentrate on sorting out the lighting and getting the right fertilisers in there and hopefully all sorts out. Thanks a bunch for this
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