molly with internal parasite, velvet, and fungus

AdoraBelle Dearheart said:

Doesn't look like velvet to me, looks like a gold dust molly colouration,

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Yay!!!! I’m just so happy hearing that! But the top of her head is like… i dont know it looks weird and she lost a scale…

The reason I had doubts about her being a gold dust molly because Petco told me that 10gallon would be perfect for 5 mollies (and they gave me three males and two females…)

I’m a beginner and When I did some research the sex ratio was so wrong and I went back and surrendered (lost the receipt) two male lyretail mollies and got one shortfin creamsicle female named Mango and “gold dust” female Eva. Obviously I didn’t know better and didn’t qt them..

So thats why I didnt trust Petco and they literally told me that they are not trained in sexing fish..

Also they are in black out in increased heat because I read somewhere that higher temperature will speed up the metabolism of the parasite(velvet…parasite? Virus? Infection?) and darkness because velvet is sensitive to light.

I feed them flakes, freeze dried brine shrimp and krills, and squash and garlic juice and pea sometimes)

AdoraBelle Dearheart said:

Sorry if any of this sounds harsh! Not meant to be, I'm bummed out about losing my dog, and I realise it's coming across in my posting, but genuinely trying to help! And no judgement either, I learned about quarantining the hard way too

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Omg I am so sorry for your loss.. I lost my dog (13year old) and it has been 8years but I still can’t get over it.. And btw you didn’t sound harsh at all! This was all due to my lack of knowledge. I hope you feel better!

Byron said:

The starting point is the GH, KH and pH of your source water, tap water presumably. You need to ascertain these numbers, then we will know how to proceed.

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This is the information I got from the city website and my location. I think the water here is generally soft?..

Could you please look at it and guide me on how to proceed?

From that table, the numbers you need are
Hardness average = 258.9 ppm
Alkalinity (as caCO3) average = 204.4 ppm (this is what we call KH)
pH average = 7.9

That hardness should be more than enough for mollies.
But your tester gives 100 ppm hardness and 80 ppm KH. That is a huge difference from the values in the table.

Have you tested both your tank water and your tap water? If they are the same, it could be your tester. You could try taking 2 samples of water to a fish store (one tap sample, one tank sample) and ask them to test GH and KH. If they agree with your results, either there's something in the tank changing your water or you have the wrong table. But if the store's results are the same as the table, you porbably need new testers.
Make sure the store gives you numbers rather than words.

She seems to be not all black. Can't really see in these pics wether it's yellow or gold when it comes to those spots on her head. Which would make this molly a very dark gold dust molly. I don't really see anything bad about her. But she's doesn't have a real good shape.

Essjay said:

From that table, the numbers you need are
Hardness average = 258.9 ppm
Alkalinity (as caCO3) average = 204.4 ppm (this is what we call KH)
pH average = 7.9

That hardness should be more than enough for mollies.
But your tester gives 100 ppm hardness and 80 ppm KH. That is a huge difference from the values in the table.

Have you tested both your tank water and your tap water? If they are the same, it could be your tester. You could try taking 2 samples of water to a fish store (one tap sample, one tank sample) and ask them to test GH and KH. If they agree with your results, either there's something in the tank changing your water or you have the wrong table. But if the store's results are the same as the table, you porbably need new testers.
Make sure the store gives you numbers rather than words.

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I concur, you (Mollyforever) need to resolve this considerable difference.

Byron said:

I concur, you (Mollyforever) need to resolve this considerable difference.

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Thank you!! I shall proceed and buy a new tester kit! @Essjay thank you so much for explaining everything!!

Essjay said:

From that table, the numbers you need are
Hardness average = 258.9 ppm
Alkalinity (as caCO3) average = 204.4 ppm (this is what we call KH)
pH average = 7.9

That hardness should be more than enough for mollies.
But your tester gives 100 ppm hardness and 80 ppm KH. That is a huge difference from the values in the table.

Have you tested both your tank water and your tap water? If they are the same, it could be your tester. You could try taking 2 samples of water to a fish store (one tap sample, one tank sample) and ask them to test GH and KH. If they agree with your results, either there's something in the tank changing your water or you have the wrong table. But if the store's results are the same as the table, you porbably need new testers.
Make sure the store gives you numbers rather than words.

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Sooooo.. i just tested the water in my 20g that is in cycling..
Its strange because the test results show higher GH and KH of 500 and 120ppm…. With zero nitrate and nitrite and 0.5 ammonia

And when i tested my tap water
GH: 500
NO3: 10
NO2: 0
Cl2: O (zero cl2 in tap water)
KH: 120
pH: 7.2
Ammonia: 0

Do you think I have a faulty test kit??

GH 500 is almost rock!

I think I'd take some water to a fish store and ask them to test. If they come up with the same results as you've got, there's something odd going on, but if they get different from you, and similar to the table, it would suggest your testers.

What test kit for GH are you using?

Byron said:

What test kit for GH are you using?

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Both SJ wave brand : ammonia strips and 6-1 aquarium test strips

Mollyforever said:

Both SJ wave brand : ammonia strips and 6-1 aquarium test strips

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Don't know those. I asked because the API liquid GH test confused many with the colour change per drop.

I agree with Essjay, take a sample of water to the store.

From my API test, my gH is 6.... but I am red green colourblind (I think a big reason I've ended up trying various brands of liquid tests if I'm honest).... the water board website says my total hardness should be more like 4 drops. For kH I easily see colour change, and the website says slightly more than 2 drops, I usually measure 3 which reduces to 2 in between water changes so that makes sense.

What I am saying is maybe you are simply reading the test wrong.

Byron said:

Don't know those. I asked because the API liquid GH test confused many with the colour change per drop.

I agree with Essjay, take a sample of water to the store.

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Unfortunately I am unable to go to the local fish store because i cant drive (personal reasons) and im a full time mom of a two yr old. My husband is a full time grad student and our times just dont match… and my babysitter just left for school so im basically stuck home. i ordered the api master kit and it ll arrive in three days so hopefully I ll get a more accurate readings!

Did you order the master test kit which contains pH, high range pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate? This doesn't contain GH or KH. That comes separately in a pack of just those two.


Ammonia, pH etc work by adding drops from a bottle. or two bottles dpending on the test, then waiting 5 minutes (or immediately for pH) then comparing the colour to a chart.
GH and KH are different. With these you add 1 drop at a time, shaking the tube after each drop, until the water changes colour.

Essjay said:

Did you order the master test kit which contains pH, high range pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate? This doesn't contain GH or KH. That comes separately in a pack of just those two.


Ammonia, pH etc work by adding drops from a bottle. or two bottles dpending on the test, then waiting 5 minutes (or immediately for pH) then comparing the colour to a chart.
GH and KH are different. With these you add 1 drop at a time, shaking the tube after each drop, until the water changes colour.

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Omg thank you!!! i will buy two kits..or should i buy the api test strips? Those seem to check all five! Except for ammonia but i have one for ammonia already!