Cabomba Yellowing

Planted cabomba about 8 days ago. It's been bright green and has stood up about 2" taller since planting. I dosed with Florish when planted too, but I noticed today that the "leaves" towards the bottom have started to yellow. Is this normal or is something wrong?

pictures of the plant?

Colin_T said:

pictures of the plant?

Click to expand...

Pictures

Anyone have any ideas? Seems to slowly be getting worse.

some palntnutrientsare mobile. Meaning the plant can move them around within the plant as needed. When these nutrients are in short supply the plant may removetham from older leaves to support new growth. The old leaves tend to yellow and then die. if the problem is not corrected all the older leaves will die leaving only a few at the top of the plant. These mobile nutrients are nitrogen, potassium phosphate, magnesium, molybdenum and chlorine. Yes chlorine is a nutrient but plants don't use the toxic chlorine gas. but instead use chloride salts like sodium chloride, potassium chloride and others.

I would check the following:

1. are you using tap water. If so it probably was sterilized with chlorine by the utility . After the water is sterilized chloride salts should be pressent in the water. Molybdenum should also be pressent in tap water and plants don't need much of either of these nutrients. Soif you are using tap water you shouldn't have to worry about Cl and Mo. However if you are using RO water These could be a problem.
2. What is your nitrate level You don't want zero nitrate. 5PPM would be enough for the plants.
3. What is the hardness of your water> You can use a GH test kit. The GH test kit detects the presence of magnesium and calcium. plants need both of these. If your GH is low you might have to get a GH booster to increase the level. Increasing GH by 2to 3 degrees should be more than enough for plants.
4. there are test kits for phosphate. You only need about 1ppm of phsophate. potassium test kits are hard to find.

Just cut off the yellow areas

StevenF said:

some palntnutrientsare mobile. Meaning the plant can move them around within the plant as needed. When these nutrients are in short supply the plant may removetham from older leaves to support new growth. The old leaves tend to yellow and then die. if the problem is not corrected all the older leaves will die leaving only a few at the top of the plant. These mobile nutrients are nitrogen, potassium phosphate, magnesium, molybdenum and chlorine. Yes chlorine is a nutrient but plants don't use the toxic chlorine gas. but instead use chloride salts like sodium chloride, potassium chloride and others.

I would check the following:

1. are you using tap water. If so it probably was sterilized with chlorine by the utility . After the water is sterilized chloride salts should be pressent in the water. Molybdenum should also be pressent in tap water and plants don't need much of either of these nutrients. Soif you are using tap water you shouldn't have to worry about Cl and Mo. However if you are using RO water These could be a problem.
2. What is your nitrate level You don't want zero nitrate. 5PPM would be enough for the plants.
3. What is the hardness of your water> You can use a GH test kit. The GH test kit detects the presence of magnesium and calcium. plants need both of these. If your GH is low you might have to get a GH booster to increase the level. Increasing GH by 2to 3 degrees should be more than enough for plants.
4. there are test kits for phosphate. You only need about 1ppm of phsophate. potassium test kits are hard to find.

Click to expand...

1. I am using tap water, treated with Prime.
2. Nitrate is currently around 2.5, but I just did a water change 2 day before testing.
3. 10.9GH/1.7KH
4. I'll check around for a phosphate test.

The other issue I think it may have been is the lighting. It was LED, but just the small ones that came on the tank hood and some of my other plants seemed to be struggling as well. Couldn't find anything giving the kelvin rating, but total was only 5.5W. About 4 days ago I upgraded to the fluval aquasky 2.0 18W. Currently running at 70%W, 60%G, 55%R, 7%B. Going to slowly build to 100%W, 80%G, 70%R, 10%B, just taking it slow to make sure I don't get a bad algae outbreak by adding all the light at once.