Blacks spots on aquarium plants?

Heather7465

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I'm struggling to keep aquarium plants healthy green and alive! What am I'm doing wrong? I use API root tabs and leaf zone. Some Aquatic plants turn spotty black, some turn brown, and some turned to soft mush breaking apart such as my MADAGASCAR LACE. I use a Fluval plant light that is turned on low light for 10hrs a day. Here is a picture of my current fern I'm struggling with. Advice?
 

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i not a huge expert on it, but the black dots look like black alge, do you have snails in you tank (that will eat it)?
I have a Red Racer Nerite snail and unwanted bladder snails that hitched a ride on one of my plants. I'll do some research on black algae since I'm not familiar with it. Thank you!!
 
I'm struggling to keep aquarium plants healthy green and alive! What am I'm doing wrong? I use API root tabs and leaf zone. Some Aquatic plants turn spotty black, some turn brown, and some turned to soft mush breaking apart such as my MADAGASCAR LACE. I use a Fluval plant light that is turned on low light for 10hrs a day. Here is a picture of my current fern I'm struggling with. Advice?

I'll comment on the Java Fern and then in general on the issues.

Black spots that are relatively uniform in size and in rows on the underside of the fronds [= leaves] would be spores for new adventitious plants. But what we see here is not that; difficult to see accurately but some of the black spots appear to be raised up from the frond, which suggests black brush algae which is frequently seen on this plant if it is permanently under bright lighting (floating plants usually solve this). Irregular black blotches are likely due to nutrient issues.

Which brings me to the general issues on all your plants you mentioned. The light/nutrient balance. Can you provide any more data on the lighting? "Low" if it really is low would affect some of the other plants that need brighter light, depending what the "low" is providing in intensity. There is also the spectrum, do you know the Kelvin? Duration cannot make up for lighting that is not of sufficient intensity to drive photosynthesis, and this is specific for each plant species though we obviously can find some middle ground for some plant groupings. But if the "low" really is not bright enough for say the Nymphaea lotus I think I see in the photo, leaving that light on fgor ten hours will have no more benefit than five hours. And there would seem to be insufficient nutrients to balance the light so I would suggest reducing the time to maybe 7 or 8 hours (on a timer is best), along with some other changes.

This brings us to nutrients. A major problem is certainly the API Leaf Zone. This is only iron and potassium, so the other 12 or so essential nutrients need to be provided somehow, and the fish load alone is unlikely to do this, so a comprehensive supplement will be better. The other thing is too much iron is deadly, I have known this alone to kill plants. A comprehensive product like Flourish Comprehensive Supplement, or Brightwell Aquatics' FlorinMulti, will benefit. This is a low-tech or natural method tank, not high-tech, so either of these products will provide the full range of nutrients [except carbon, hydrogen and oxygen which are naturally present] the plants need, and each is in proportion so you are not risking over-dosing. Too much of a nutrient can cause plants to shut down assimilation of another nutrient, and some nutrients beyond what is needed can negatively impact plants. Nitrogen is included in both of these but in limited quantity because most people have fish and nitrogen is not missing; plants use the ammonia/ammonium as their preferred nitrogen source, and that is not likely to be lacking. Calcium and magnesium are also minimal in these products, because many people have sufficient in their source water, so knowing your GH is important.

The API root tabs have had not-so-good reviews from some in past threads. Their website will not disclose the ingredients, "trade secret" they say, which to me says forget this product, it is very likely not worth it. I know from using them for over a decade now that Flourish Tabs produce incredible results in substrate-rooted plants like swords, Nymphaea, aponogeton, etc.

May have more when I know the requested info (light data, and GH).
 
I have a Red Racer Nerite snail and unwanted bladder snails that hitched a ride on one of my plants. I'll do some research on black algae since I'm not familiar with it. Thank you!!

So far as I know (others can correct me if I'm mistaken here) Nerites are safe with plants. The bladder snails certainly are safe. And neither will deal with "problem" algae adequately. Nothing will eat black brush algae except two fish species, but I won't get into those as that is not the solution to this issue.
 
I'll comment on the Java Fern and then in general on the issues.

Black spots that are relatively uniform in size and in rows on the underside of the fronds [= leaves] would be spores for new adventitious plants. But what we see here is not that; difficult to see accurately but some of the black spots appear to be raised up from the frond, which suggests black brush algae which is frequently seen on this plant if it is permanently under bright lighting (floating plants usually solve this). Irregular black blotches are likely due to nutrient issues.

Which brings me to the general issues on all your plants you mentioned. The light/nutrient balance. Can you provide any more data on the lighting? "Low" if it really is low would affect some of the other plants that need brighter light, depending what the "low" is providing in intensity. There is also the spectrum, do you know the Kelvin? Duration cannot make up for lighting that is not of sufficient intensity to drive photosynthesis, and this is specific for each plant species though we obviously can find some middle ground for some plant groupings. But if the "low" really is not bright enough for say the Nymphaea lotus I think I see in the photo, leaving that light on fgor ten hours will have no more benefit than five hours. And there would seem to be insufficient nutrients to balance the light so I would suggest reducing the time to maybe 7 or 8 hours (on a timer is best), along with some other changes.

This brings us to nutrients. A major problem is certainly the API Leaf Zone. This is only iron and potassium, so the other 12 or so essential nutrients need to be provided somehow, and the fish load alone is unlikely to do this, so a comprehensive supplement will be better. The other thing is too much iron is deadly, I have known this alone to kill plants. A comprehensive product like Flourish Comprehensive Supplement, or Brightwell Aquatics' FlorinMulti, will benefit. This is a low-tech or natural method tank, not high-tech, so either of these products will provide the full range of nutrients [except carbon, hydrogen and oxygen which are naturally present] the plants need, and each is in proportion so you are not risking over-dosing. Too much of a nutrient can cause plants to shut down assimilation of another nutrient, and some nutrients beyond what is needed can negatively impact plants. Nitrogen is included in both of these but in limited quantity because most people have fish and nitrogen is not missing; plants use the ammonia/ammonium as their preferred nitrogen source, and that is not likely to be lacking. Calcium and magnesium are also minimal in these products, because many people have sufficient in their source water, so knowing your GH is important.

The API root tabs have had not-so-good reviews from some in past threads. Their website will not disclose the ingredients, "trade secret" they say, which to me says forget this product, it is very likely not worth it. I know from using them for over a decade now that Flourish Tabs produce incredible results in substrate-rooted plants like swords, Nymphaea, aponogeton, etc.

May have more when I know the requested info (light data, and GH).
I appreciate all your knowledge on aquarium plants because I love the aesthetics of a live planted aquariums! But I am out of my depth. I'm going to have to learn more about the Kelvin color tempature scale because I don't know what I'm choosing for lighting temp. on my Fluval. I'm randomly picking colors based off fish behavior also the time of day. That is probably my first issue I need to address.
As for floating plants, to help with lighting I haven't had much luck there. Amazon Frogbit is my favorite floater that I cannot keep alive because I can't keep the top leaves dry due to splashing from air stone. Got rid of floating hornwort because it was constantly plugging up the suction on filter.
Thanks for your advice on using Seachem
Flourish Comprehensive instead of API root tabs because honestly I haven't noticed any changes to the plants since I started using them. I found the Flourish Comprehensive online on Amazon for a good price and will try to find the Flourish Tabs as well! Thanks!
I think my Gh ppm is 60 which is soft for a freshwater aquarium. I added a photo for reference.
Thank you Byron for all your suggestions. I'll look into black algae and address the issue. Plus research more about my lighting tempatures.
 

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The GH if 60 ppm [= 3 dGH] is very soft but workable. The tabs will be sufficient for the swords, so far as nutrition is concerned. My GH is zero, and just one tab per sword plant works well, replaced every 3 months.

The light..."white" light is composed of colour wavelengths (think of the spectrum of a rainbow). The "warmer" the colour, which means more red/yellow and less blue, the lower the number, eg. 4000K. The "cooler" the colour, which means more blue and less red, the higher the number, eg. 10000K. Aquatic plants grow best under light that is in the range of 5000K to 7000K (natural mid-day sun falls in this range too, not surprisingly). It is this total mix of the "white" light that is critical. Having for example red, green and blue LED diodes over the tank is not the same as having "white" diodes that have 6500K or thereabouts. So if using LED, it is the white diodes that matter. I believe most "plant" intended LED units use just white diodes, and they likely have around 6500K.
 

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