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Molly - something wrong!

Jabes

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Canterbury, UK
One of our mollies has been hiding for the last few days but would come out for food. He looked fine, but today we've noticed something on his underside and we're obviously concerned. He has been hiding in a plastic pirate ship so could have hurt himself going in or out of that, or it could be another fish attacking him? (haven't seen anything except some chasing of each other which they like to do), or if he has some kind of infection?

He is eating ok and comes out for food.

Checked water, and ammonia and nitrites zero; no change to ph or hardness (we've had them for 5 months); tank is 120l and we only have 4 mollies and a dozen tetras in there so bags of space.

We did remove a big plant which wasn't doing very well and haven't replaced it yet and thought he might have lost a favourite place, I also put in some plant food last weekend (although have done so before without any problems)

Best wishes
James
 

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What are the tank dimensions (length x width x height)?

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What is the GH (general hardness), KH (carbonate hardness) and pH of your water supply?
This information can usually be obtained from your water supply company's website or by telephoning them. If they can't help you, take a glass full of tap water to the local pet shop and get them to test it for you. Write the results down (in numbers) when they do the tests. And ask them what the results are in (eg: ppm, dGH, or something else).

Depending on what the GH of your water is, will determine what fish you should keep.
Tetras, barbs, gouramis, rasbora, Corydoras and small species of suckermouth catfish all occur in soft water (GH below 150ppm).

Livebearers (guppies, platies, swordtails, mollies) occur in medium hard water with a GH around 200-250ppm.

If you have very hard water (GH above 300ppm) then look at African Rift Lake cichlids or use distilled or reverse osmosis water to reduce the GH and keep fishes from softer water.

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How many male mollies do you have?
A bigger male might have bashed him.

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Wipe the inside of the glass down with a clean fish sponge.

Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate every day for a week. The water changes and gravel cleaning will reduce the number of disease organisms in the water and provide a cleaner environment for the fish to recover in.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it is added to the tank.

Clean the filter if it hasn't been done in the last 2 weeks. However, if the filter is less than 6 weeks old, do not clean it. Wash the filter materials/ media in a bucket of tank water and re-use them. Tip the bucket of dirty water on the garden/ lawn. Cleaning the filter means less gunk and cleaner water with fewer pathogens.

Increase surface turbulence/ aeration when using salt or medications because they reduce the dissolved oxygen in the water.

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Add some salt.
You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt), sea salt or swimming pool salt to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

If you only have livebearers (guppies, platies, swordtails, mollies), goldfish or rainbowfish in the tank you can double that dose rate, so you would add 2 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres and if there is no improvement after 48 hours, then increase it so there is a total of 4 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, Bettas & gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.

The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria but the higher dose rate (4 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres) will affect some plants and some snails. The lower dose rate (1-2 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres) will not affect fish, plants, shrimp or snails.

After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.

When you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.
 
Tanks is 50cmx80cmx35cm, 120l
GH 16, KH 14 (API drop test), pH 8.2 (aerated). We filter the water with pozzani nitrate filter as local water has higher nitrates.
Tank is cleaned every week, 20% water change.

You suggest a big water change for a week, but also salt which implies not changing water quickly afterwards - would appreciate any guidance here.
I could also get some more plants to put back in as they are probably missing them but alternatively could wait until after trying to sort this out?
4 male mollies, all around the same size (about 2.5") so none are particularly bigger.
We have a fluval filter which is in three parts, we clean one side or the other every week in the outgoing water bucket as was recommended in the instructions
 
Last edited:
You suggest a big water change for a week, but also salt which implies not changing water quickly afterwards - would appreciate any guidance here.
When you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.
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The pH and GH are fine for mollies. :)

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Don't add anything new to the tank until the problem is resolved. That includes fish, plants, snails or shrimp. Get the problem fixed and then when everyone is happy again, add some plants.

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You can clean the entire filter at the same time as long as you wash the filter media/ materials in a bucket of tank water. Then re-use the media and tip the bucket of dirty water on the lawn/ garden.

You should also wash the filter case and impellor assembly (magnet with plastic blades in the motor) on a regular basis. These parts can be washed under tap water but be careful you don't lose any of the rubber grommets or plastic washers that might be on the impellor assembly.
 
Yes, have been cleaning the assembly every month or so.

In terms of what it looks like and what we should do? Water change then some salt? Does it look like an injury and this is a precaution or anything more sinister?

We have neon tetras in the tank too (x12) all seem very happy aside from 'storm' (the black molly)
 
Do daily water changes and gravel cleaning for a week.
Have salt in the tank for the next 2 weeks.

The salt will kill any fungus, bacteria or protozoa on the fish and the water changes and gravel cleaning will provide a cleaner environment for the fish to heal itself.
 
Ok, given the tetras in there should I go for the lower salt concentration first?
You didn't answer whether you thought it might be an injury or something else?

Thanks for your help
 
So we've been proceeding with the salt treatment and water changes. The area of the molly's skin is now white and seems a bit bigger. Is this just healing? Or could it point to something worse?

Mood wise he appears to be eating more now, no signs of issues on other fish or other parts of his body
 

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