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Guppy, internal bleeding??

Colin_T said:
Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate every day for a week and add some salt.

Do not move any fish into the other tank because if these fish have an infection, you will spread it to the other tank. If you have already moved them, monitor the other tank closely for similar symptoms.

If the other tank has an established filter, you can take some of the old filter media/ material and put it in the new tank's filter. This will help to cycle the new tank and should get rid of the nitrite problem within 24-48 hours.
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I made the mistake and already moved the fry in the breeder box into the other tank this morning since it turned out to be a male. I will just wait and monitor the fish closely. Also No2 is at <0,01 at the main tank, I just checked. I will do many water changes and as many gravel vacccums as I can. The fish aren't hiding anymore and also the yollow one with the most internal bleeding is swimming around completely normal now. I will not make any conclusions to fast but I think(hope) it's getting better. But one question I have to ask is following: it is about another illness. My one lyretail molly has a fin that looks kind of melted, I asked on five different forums, asked a fish keeper that lives near me and looked it up. I never found any informations. It does look like fin melting but since he already has it for a few months everyone at the internet said, that it's just how his colorations and tail is. I also just left it like this because I did a two week fin rot treatment, without any improvement and added salt a few moths ago but at a lower consentration than I do now. Can that possibly be related to the cause of the internal bleeding? Maybe a possible parasite? And sorry to trouble you sooo much
 
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NCaquatics said:
Photo of the Molly's tail?
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Screenshot_20201129_190200.jpg
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Yeah thats normal and fine. Some lyretails have their fins grow like that, my female lyretail is like that too.
Not melting, just the way it grows.

You can add more vegetation to the diet as well to see if it helps, spirulina flakes 1-2x a week would be great for livebearers.
 
NCaquatics said:
Yeah thats normal and fine. Some lyretails have their fins grow like that, my female lyretail is like that too.
Not melting, just the way it grows.

You can add more vegetation to the diet as well to see if it helps, spirulina flakes 1-2x a week would be great for livebearers.
Click to expand...
That's good to know and I finally can stop worrying about him. And I will defenitely try feeding them spirulina flakes in the near future, thank you very much for all your help!
 
It could be excess mucous on the molly's tail, but there are other issues with the molly. It is skinny and has flared gills. This would suggest gill flukes and intestinal worms. These two parasites would weaken the fish and make it more susceptible to other issues.

Salt should deal with the gill flukes but you will need a dewormer for the intestinal worms. The fish can live with worms for a long time if there's only a few in them, but it is something that should be treated in the future. Until then you can feed the fish more often (3 times a day) to help provide them with more nutrients so they can replace the blood they are losing to the gill flukes and worms.

Monitor the fish's poop and if it's white and stringy then it will need to be treated for worms sooner rather than later. If the poop is coloured and looks normal, then it can be dewormed in a few months. If it does have worms, let me know and I will provide you with instructions on treating them.

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You should check the GH of the water. Mollies need a GH above 250ppm and a pH above 7.0. Your pH is fine but if the GH is too low, they struggle.

The GH can usually be obtained from your water supply company's website or by telephoning them. If they can't help you, take a glass full of tap water to the local pet shop and get them to test it for you. Write the results down (in numbers) when they do the tests. And ask them what the results are in (eg: ppm, dGH, or something else).
 
Colin_T said:
It could be excess mucous on the molly's tail, but there are other issues with the molly. It is skinny and has flared gills. This would suggest gill flukes and intestinal worms. These two parasites would weaken the fish and make it more susceptible to other issues.

Salt should deal with the gill flukes but you will need a dewormer for the intestinal worms. The fish can live with worms for a long time if there's only a few in them, but it is something that should be treated in the future. Until then you can feed the fish more often (3 times a day) to help provide them with more nutrients so they can replace the blood they are losing to the gill flukes and worms.

Monitor the fish's poop and if it's white and stringy then it will need to be treated for worms sooner rather than later. If the poop is coloured and looks normal, then it can be dewormed in a few months. If it does have worms, let me know and I will provide you with instructions on treating them.

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You should check the GH of the water. Mollies need a GH above 250ppm and a pH above 7.0. Your pH is fine but if the GH is too low, they struggle.

The GH can usually be obtained from your water supply company's website or by telephoning them. If they can't help you, take a glass full of tap water to the local pet shop and get them to test it for you. Write the results down (in numbers) when they do the tests. And ask them what the results are in (eg: ppm, dGH, or something else).
Click to expand...
The Gh is about 10-15 but I tested it with test stripes since Gh wasn't included in my water test kid. So I don't know how accurate it really is. And yeah, I have to admit he is pretty skinny. Since the other male molly is the dominant one I wanted to seperat them (I though maybe it was fin nipping) but I rarely see him get bothered by the other molly. I seperat them because I only could move him to the 50 litre tank and in there he probably would have felt stressed in this small space.
My fish sometimes have stringy poop but really seldom. I just thought it is from feeding to less (I have heared that then they get stringy poop). But can you tell me the instructions please, I want to buy the medecine just in case and probably treat them after they recover because of the internal bleeding. (also the smaller tank has noticeably more stringy poop so a parasite is pretty likely I think, but also the fish in the smaller tank seem a lot healthier, they don't have any problems and don't have damaged fins)
 
Intestinal Worms like tapeworm and threadworms cause the fish to lose weight, continue eating and swimming normally, and do a stringy white poop. Fish can do this for months and not be too badly affected. In some cases, fish with a bad worm infestation will actually gain weight and get fat and look like a pregnant guppy. This is due to the huge number of worms inside the fish.

Livebearers like guppies, mollies, swordtails & platies are regularly infected with gill flukes and intestinal worms. If the fish are still eating well, then worms is the most likely cause.

You can use Praziquantel to treat tapeworm and gill flukes. And Levamisole to treat thread/ round worms. If you can't find these medications, look for Flubendazole, which treats both lots of worms.

I'm not sure what medications are available in Germany but in the UK you can look for the following medications:
eSHa gdex contains praziquantel that treats tapeworm and gill flukes.
eSHa-ndx contains levamisole and treats thread/ round worms.
NT Labs Anti-fluke and Wormer contains flubendazole.

Remove carbon from filters before treatment and increase aeration/ surface turbulence to maximise oxygen levels in the water.

You treat the fish once a week for 4 weeks. The first treatment will kill any worms in the fish. The second, third and forth treatments kill any baby worms that hatch from eggs inside the fish's digestive tract.

Treat every fish tank in the house at the same time to prevent cross contamination.

You do a 75% water change and complete gravel clean 24-48 hours after treatment. Clean the filter 24 hours after treatment too.

Do not use the 2 medications together. If you want to treat both medications in a short space of time, use Praziquantel on day one. Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate on day 2 & 3. Treat the tank with Levamisole on day 4 and do a 75% water change and gravel clean on day 5, 6 & 7 and then start with Praziquantel again on day 8.

The water changes will remove most of the medication so you don't overdose the fish the next time you treat them. The gravel cleaning will suck out any worms and eggs that have been expelled by the fish. Repeating the treatment for 3-4 doses at weekly intervals will kill any worms that hatch from eggs. At the end of the treatment you will have healthier fish.
 
Colin_T said:
Intestinal Worms like tapeworm and threadworms cause the fish to lose weight, continue eating and swimming normally, and do a stringy white poop. Fish can do this for months and not be too badly affected. In some cases, fish with a bad worm infestation will actually gain weight and get fat and look like a pregnant guppy. This is due to the huge number of worms inside the fish.

Livebearers like guppies, mollies, swordtails & platies are regularly infected with gill flukes and intestinal worms. If the fish are still eating well, then worms is the most likely cause.

You can use Praziquantel to treat tapeworm and gill flukes. And Levamisole to treat thread/ round worms. If you can't find these medications, look for Flubendazole, which treats both lots of worms.

I'm not sure what medications are available in Germany but in the UK you can look for the following medications:
eSHa gdex contains praziquantel that treats tapeworm and gill flukes.
eSHa-ndx contains levamisole and treats thread/ round worms.
NT Labs Anti-fluke and Wormer contains flubendazole.

Remove carbon from filters before treatment and increase aeration/ surface turbulence to maximise oxygen levels in the water.

You treat the fish once a week for 4 weeks. The first treatment will kill any worms in the fish. The second, third and forth treatments kill any baby worms that hatch from eggs inside the fish's digestive tract.

Treat every fish tank in the house at the same time to prevent cross contamination.

You do a 75% water change and complete gravel clean 24-48 hours after treatment. Clean the filter 24 hours after treatment too.

Do not use the 2 medications together. If you want to treat both medications in a short space of time, use Praziquantel on day one. Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate on day 2 & 3. Treat the tank with Levamisole on day 4 and do a 75% water change and gravel clean on day 5, 6 & 7 and then start with Praziquantel again on day 8.

The water changes will remove most of the medication so you don't overdose the fish the next time you treat them. The gravel cleaning will suck out any worms and eggs that have been expelled by the fish. Repeating the treatment for 3-4 doses at weekly intervals will kill any worms that hatch from eggs. At the end of the treatment you will have healthier fish.
Click to expand...
I will defenitely do the worm treatment as soon as I can, the only problem is that here it's pretty hard to get these medications online. And if I find them they cost about 40-50 euros per medication... But I havnt really looked on 'no-name' websites since I don't really trust them but there they probably arent as expensive. Also I will look in shops as soon as I have the chance to (because of the lockdown that lasts till December 6th) and maybe they have these medications.
Also, thank you so much for your help! Really, the fish with the wound is completely healed, no fish has been hiding anywhere the last 24 hours and I finally know what the Golden dust molly in particular has. I will feed them a little more than usual till I start with the treatment. So thanks a lot!
 
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I got the medicine yesterday (there were some troubles with shipping and they didn't have it in the shops I went to) and tomorrow I plan to begin the treatment. But my problem is that I kept the No2 level as low as possible even though I am honest, for my eyes the two colors (for <0,01 and 0,025) look almost the same.
IMG_20201213_163734.jpg

But I asked three different people and they said it was more the <0,01. I do water changes now almost every 2-3 days, 30-45% or more but they still have this redness. (I don't use a declorinator but I use a water conditioner from jbl, it is labeled to declorinate the water) Today I noticed the redness got again really bad in comparison to yesterday (last water change was one and a half days ago). Is this something to worry about or is it normal? (other water parameters: No3: 1, Nh4: 0)
 
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I wouldn't worry about the nitrite.

If you can post some more pictures of the fish with the red in them, I will have a look. In the mean time, just keep doing water changes every few days and keep adding salt.
 
Colin_T said:
I wouldn't worry about the nitrite.

If you can post some more pictures of the fish with the red in them, I will have a look. In the mean time, just keep doing water changes every few days and keep adding salt.
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Screenshot_20201214_102212.jpg
Screenshot_20201214_102044.jpg
Screenshot_20201214_102027.jpg

That's the same fish. Also in the second picture she has clamped fins I know, but none of my fish has clamped fins all the time, they just clamp there fins sometimes for a few seconds, that's normal isn't it? At least I researched about it a few moths back (when I first got fish) and I read that that's not an indicator for an illness if the fish only does it for a few seconds. And yes, I will continue doing water changes every 2-3 days but I don't know how long I should continue adding salt to the tank. I have read that after 2 weeks, you should stop because the fish will be damaged (I forgot what exactly) is that true or is it nothing to worry about (maybe I just remember it falsely)
 
Clamped fins can be a disease but most fish use their fins for communication and sometimes if they are stressed, they will clamp them. Having said that, the middle and bottom pictures show excess mucous on the dorsal (top) and anal (bottom) fins. It's not bad and the salt and water changes should fix it, but keep an eye on them and if they continue to clamp their fins or rub on objects, post some pics here and let us know what is going on.

Normally you only use salt for 1-2 weeks after the problem has resolved so soft water fishes like tetras and Corydoras don't end up with damaged kidneys. However, guppies don't have problems with salt and are fine for a month or more with salt.

As a general rule though, just keep salt in the tank for 2 weeks after the problem has resolved. This gives the fish plenty of time to recover from whatever was causing the problem and then you can stop using salt.
 
Colin_T said:
Clamped fins can be a disease but most fish use their fins for communication and sometimes if they are stressed, they will clamp them. Having said that, the middle and bottom pictures show excess mucous on the dorsal (top) and anal (bottom) fins. It's not bad and the salt and water changes should fix it, but keep an eye on them and if they continue to clamp their fins or rub on objects, post some pics here and let us know what is going on.

Normally you only use salt for 1-2 weeks after the problem has resolved so soft water fishes like tetras and Corydoras don't end up with damaged kidneys. However, guppies don't have problems with salt and are fine for a month or more with salt.

As a general rule though, just keep salt in the tank for 2 weeks after the problem has resolved. This gives the fish plenty of time to recover from whatever was causing the problem and then you can stop using salt.
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OK, so I will continue using salt but maybe remove my corydoras from the tank since they seem to be salt sensetive fish. I do not treat the second tank with salt. The fish there seem to be helathy, they don't have clamped fins (i have not once saw them clamping their fin). They don't have excess mucuos, do they? I can't really tell, if I try to Google it, I can't find good reference pics, but to me they seem completely fine.
Screenshot_20201214_115110.jpg

And I can use the dewormer and the salt at the same time, right?
 
Don't move the Corydoras until after you have finished using salt. If there is a disease in the tank, the Cories can transfer it to the other tank, and so can the water that gets transferred across with the fish.

The Cories will be fine for a couple of weeks with salt.

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Yes you can use dewormer and salt at the same time.

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I can't tell anything in that picture.
 
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