Fluffy spots on guppy and balloon molly and guppy going pale

Lisha175

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Hi so I just got some new fish for my aquarium that wouldn’t get along with my guppies so moved my guppies to the tank that has the older baby guppies and I’ve just noticed today that one of my guppies is losing colour and looks really pale and I also put one of my balloon Molly’s in the tank too cause I thought the male balloon molly was attacking it as it had a white fluffy spot underneath it but I’ve noticed today that most of that is gone and now my other older guppy has a white fluffy spot on its side? Can someone please help??
I’ve attached some photos
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No not at the moment I’m getting some in the next few days to put in there I’ve only just put the fish in there last night but the balloon molly had the white fluffy stuff on it before I moved them and now it has disappeared off the balloon molly and is on the guppy!!
 
How old are all the tanks, and do you have a water testing kit? What are the water test results?

I can't see any white fluffy stuff, are you able to get any photos of that?
 
The tank I moved them from is about 6 months old and the tank there in now is about a month old. I’ve got a ph test kit cause the lady at the fish shop told me that that is the only test kit I need the ph is about 7.2 in both tanks. Is there any other water test kits I should get?
sorry that’s the best photo I can get of the white spot.
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If it's white and fluffy and sticks out from the body, then it's probably Saprolegnia fungus that gets into open wounds.

If it's smooth and covers the body and fin but doesn't stick out, then it's probably excess mucous that could be covering a wound or there is an external protozoan infection on the fish.

Did you quarantine the new fish before adding them to the main display tank?

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I need better pictures of the black molly.

Test the water quality for ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH and GH.

Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate every day for a week.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it's added to the tank.

Add some salt, (see directions below).

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SALT
You can add rock salt (often sold as aquarium salt), sea salt or swimming pool salt to the aquarium at the dose rate of 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres of water. If there is no improvement after 48 hours you can double that dose rate so there is 2 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

If you only have livebearers (guppies, platies, swordtails, mollies), goldfish or rainbowfish in the tank you can double that dose rate, so you would add 2 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres and if there is no improvement after 48 hours, then increase it so there is a total of 4 heaped tablespoons of salt per 20 litres.

Keep the salt level like this for at least 2 weeks but no longer than 4 weeks otherwise kidney damage can occur. Kidney damage is more likely to occur in fish from soft water (tetras, Corydoras, angelfish, gouramis, loaches) that are exposed to high levels of salt for an extended period of time, and is not an issue with livebearers, rainbowfish or other salt tolerant species.

The salt will not affect the beneficial filter bacteria but the higher dose rate (4 heaped tablespoons per 20 litres) will affect some plants and some snails. The lower dose rate will not affect plants, shrimp or snails.

After you use salt and the fish have recovered, you do a 10% water change each day for a week using only fresh water that has been dechlorinated. Then do a 20% water change each day for a week. Then you can do bigger water changes after that. This dilutes the salt out of the tank slowly so it doesn't harm the fish.

If you do water changes while using salt, you need to treat the new water with salt before adding it to the tank. This will keep the salt level stable in the tank and minimise stress on the fish.
 
I’ve got a ph test kit cause the lady at the fish shop told me that that is the only test kit I need
Never believe anything a fish shop tells you. The two most important tests are ammonia and nitrite as these can kill fish quickly. Any level other than zero will harm fish. Nitrate and pH testers are useful, but won't kill quickly.
 

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