First fish tank urgent advice please

Apologies if this is a stupid question, what is the water test for?

If for example I am going to do a 25% or 50% water change once or twice a week given that there are 35 fish in the tank and add seachem prime, why is there a need to test the water? Is it still necessary?
You should read the section on cycling a tank. We thought you ready had.

You need to test for Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrates regularly. If Ammonia and/or nitrites are present immediately do a large water change ie absolute minimum of 50%. Also do a change if Nitrates are over 20. The API freshwater test kit £30-35 or so is the one recommended most often on here. Test strips are also available but not as accurate apparently and aren’t value for money though are cheaper on purchase.

Youve a bit of work on your hands but heater and test kit will set you on your way.
Did you find out your water hardness figures from your water providers website?
 
You should read the section on cycling a tank. We thought you ready had.

You need to test for Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrates regularly. If Ammonia and/or nitrites are present immediately do a large water change ie absolute minimum of 50%. Also do a change if Nitrates are over 20. The API freshwater test kit £30-35 or so is the one recommended most often on here. Test strips are also available but not as accurate apparently and aren’t value for money though are cheaper on purchase.

Youve a bit of work on your hands but heater and test kit will set you on your way.
Did you find out your water hardness figures from your water providers website?

Will have a read, thanks

I was just thinking, not wanting to be controversial as this is all new to me so learning, if regular water changes are done and seachem added then there wont be a concern with ammonia, nitrate and nitrites as the water is replenished regularly

if I just remove and replace most of the tank water every week, it guarantees healthier water conditions!?

Based on last quarter the hardness level states the value as slightly hard and Ph values are as follows

Average7.53
Maximum7.79
Minimum7.35
 
We test the water as things have a habit of throwing a curve ball at us, something might die and go unnoticed, causing an ammonia spike. Our source water may not be as consistent as we hope, and be higher in Nitrates than usual. Something could be added to the tank that leaches Nitrites (Cheap ferts.)etc etc.

You'll need the number and units for the water hardness, slightly hard isn't a consistent label, and probably doesn't match what we call slightly hard.
 
Will have a read, thanks

I was just thinking, not wanting to be controversial as this is all new to me so learning, if regular water changes are done and seachem added then there wont be a concern with ammonia, nitrate and nitrites as the water is replenished regularly

if I just remove and replace most of the tank water every week, it guarantees healthier water conditions!?

Based on last quarter the hardness level states the value as slightly hard and Ph values are as follows

Average7.53
Maximum7.79
Minimum7.35
As well as the point @kwi made, which does happen, and the first thing we check when something seems wrong is to check the water parameters - but when changes are made, such as when you decide to replace the gravel, that is often the cause of what we call a mini-cycle. You lose a huge chunk of the beneficial bacteria in one go, ammonia and nitrite levels spike, it requires daily water changes for a while to keep on top of things, and testing the water lets you know where you are in that process, and when that crisis has passed and you can resume weekly changes again.

It's also a matter of routine and experience, and things like stocking. By the nature of keeping cichlids, you have to keep the tank overstocked to handle aggression and territorial issues, which gives you less wriggle room in terms of water quality. When things go bad, they can go bad fast. At this point, you can't tell whether weekly water changes will be enough, it might work out that in terms of your bioload and filtration that your particular tank, with your water (tap water in some areas has higher nitrates than others, for one thing) that yours would need to be twice or even three times a week, no one can tell you how often it will need to be done in your tank, not without some regular testing to establish a baseline.

I'll use my tank as an example. I don't usually test weekly, only because the tanks have been established for a while and I've got a pretty good handle on it now, I over-filter and understock, and maintenance is always managed. But I keep this one tank understocked, with excess filtration;
DSCF4065.JPG


And a weekly change is usually all that's needed when stocking is as it is right now, and you see how densely planted it is, which does a lot to maintain water quality, and isn't usually possible in a cichlid tank. But when I have baby fish growing out in there and the bioload is heavier, it needs changes 2-3 times a week to keep the water quality good.

But when I first set up the tank, it mini cycled for four days, needing 75% water changes daily for those four days, and daily testing so I knew when the cycle had passed and the tank was stable again. I couldn't assume it was okay without testing, because anytime ammonia or nitrites are above zero, fish are being harmed and can be killed. Then another time I added some cheap root tablets (plant fertilisers) that released too many nutrients into the water column, spiking nitrites. Daily 75% water changes and testing daily for 17 days to keep on top of that, and it still killed one of my fish before I discovered the cause and removed as much of the fertiliser as I could, then a few more days of management before it settled again. The fish didn't show signs of stress either, the only reason I knew nitrites were high was because of testing the water, by the time fish show signs of ammonia or nitrite poisoning, it's often too late.

If any fish get ill and you medicate them, some medications can crash the cycle, meaning you need to test the water to see how things are and how often you need to water change to manage it. You can't rely on weekly changes to keep the water good all the time I'm afraid. Filters break, fish get sick and die, unforeseen issues affect the cycle and water quality. I'd also say that a good number of the issues people come to the forum for help with stem from water quality issues, it's always one of the first things we ask for a reason, because it's so often the cause of the problem.
 
Will have a read, thanks

I was just thinking, not wanting to be controversial as this is all new to me so learning, if regular water changes are done and seachem added then there wont be a concern with ammonia, nitrate and nitrites as the water is replenished regularly

if I just remove and replace most of the tank water every week, it guarantees healthier water conditions!?

Based on last quarter the hardness level states the value as slightly hard and Ph values are as follows

Average7.53
Maximum7.79
Minimum7.35
Hi . I'm only fairly new to fish keeping too . But you will definitely need a good test kit sooner or later .When fish look sick or die and you've changed water and it's still happening and your scratching your head trying to figure out what's wrong .All these things can be expensive, but once you have all you need ,the spending wont be as high
 
Based on last quarter the hardness level states the value as slightly hard
We really do need a number and the unit of measurement. If your location is West Midlands (rather than Wedr Midlands ;) ) it should be somewhere on the water company's website (there are only 3 that don't give it - in north east England, Wales and Essex & Suffolk). If you can't find it, tell us the name of the company and I'll have a look.

"Slightly hard" means in the band 5.6 to 8.4 dH, or 100 to 150 ppm. This is actually soft water - water companies use words that make water sound harder than it really is. This is not hard enough for Rift Lake cichlids so you will need to add Rift Lake salts to the water. Knowing the exact hardness will help us to see how much of these salts you need to add.
 
@essjay I've sent you my post code via PM

Thanks all for the info, I've ordered the api freshwater test kit online so will report back with my results.

It's been 48 hours since i filled the tank back up, all appears well but I'm resisting from feeding them to get the tank established.

I've ordered a heater online to be on the safe side which should be with me tomorrow incase it doesn't arrive at my lfs for Saturday

Regarding the filter the one i have is the same as the link below, which only has a filter foam inside


Is there anything i can add in to improve the filter, I've read crushed coral could help and improve filtration?
 
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I have looked for the hardness for @ash222 and it's 6.74 dH/120 ppm. This is soft water.

I don't know much about Rift Lake cichlids, but I'm pretty sure it's too soft for them. If anyone knows how hard they need, I'd be grateful if you could tell us :)
There are prepared salts to adjust the water to make it suitable for them, eg by Seachem. These contain more than just calcium carbonate (ie coral or limestone)
 
@essjay thanks for looking into this for me, now i know its the German hardness level I'm looking for!

I've been doing a bit of reading and watching plenty of videos re Ph levels and increasing water hardness. It appears crushed coral is recommended as it gradually increases the levels without shocking the fish

Also when positioning the ornaments/rocks is it best to leave a gap at the rear of the tank and not keep them flush against the back of the tank?

Also past few days I've been monitoring the thermometer it has remained at a constant 25 degrees without the heater! but having the central heating on may had a bearing!

The heater has arrived today! so will set it to 25 degrees

Your thoughts would be appreciated
 
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I think Rift Lake salts would be better than coral. You can increase the hardness slowly by using a bit at first, increasing the amount to get the hardness they need. I would recommend getting a hardness test kit so you can keep an eye on the GH to make sure you don't increase it too fast, and to know when you've reached the target level.
There are a few recipes on-line for DIY Rift Lake salts. They contain epsom salt, bicarbonate of soda and salt (some say common salt, others marine salt)

Have we identified the species of fish you have? There are two main Rift Lakes and they have slightly different chemistry so you need to know what you have before altering the water.
 
I would suggest that you purchase a water hardness pen meter. I use one and they are very accurate and not expensive and very easy to use. I use a TDS-3 meter pen which I purchased off E-bay for around 10 USD and measures water hardness in PPM. It also takes the water temperature.
 
I think Rift Lake salts would be better than coral. You can increase the hardness slowly by using a bit at first, increasing the amount to get the hardness they need. I would recommend getting a hardness test kit so you can keep an eye on the GH to make sure you don't increase it too fast, and to know when you've reached the target level.
There are a few recipes on-line for DIY Rift Lake salts. They contain epsom salt, bicarbonate of soda and salt (some say common salt, others marine salt)

Have we identified the species of fish you have? There are two main Rift Lakes and they have slightly different chemistry so you need to know what you have before altering the water.

I have no idea what species or what the names of the fish are :confused:

Waiting for my water test kit, good news though as i went to my local aquarium to do a water test, following the seachem prime treatment ammonia level was zero! But nitrates were 180ppm

I've Added another dose of prime today hoping that will bring the nitrates down

The aquarium has recommended i do 20% water changes every 2 to 3 days which should bring it down, so I'll be doing my first water change tomorrow

Also first time i fed them today just a small amount as recommended by the aquarium.
 
I have no idea what species or what the names of the fish are :confused:

Waiting for my water test kit, good news though as i went to my local aquarium to do a water test, following the seachem prime treatment ammonia level was zero! But nitrates were 180ppm

I've Added another dose of prime today hoping that will bring the nitrates down

The aquarium has recommended i do 20% water changes every 2 to 3 days which should bring it down, so I'll be doing my first water change tomorrow

Also first time i fed them today just a small amount as recommended by the aquarium.
That's great news that there was zero ammonia, that the cycle is intact :) If the tank is suffering from old tank syndrome (very possible when nitrates are that high, even after you diluted it by more than 50% when you filled the tank with fresh water) then it is wise to do smaller (20%) water changes a few days apart, to bring it down gradually, and as the fish adjust to any differences in your source water. So I agree with their advice :)

If you post some close up photos of the different fish, someone here will likely be able to identify them for you! Then you can look up their requirements and care needs on Seriously Fish, which is a really good source for info.
 
That's great news that there was zero ammonia, that the cycle is intact :) If the tank is suffering from old tank syndrome (very possible when nitrates are that high, even after you diluted it by more than 50% when you filled the tank with fresh water) then it is wise to do smaller (20%) water changes a few days apart, to bring it down gradually, and as the fish adjust to any differences in your source water. So I agree with their advice :)

If you post some close up photos of the different fish, someone here will likely be able to identify them for you! Then you can look up their requirements and care needs on Seriously Fish, which is a really good source for info.

Phew fantastic puts my mind at rest, will do the water changes and keep you all updated :)

Pic attached
 

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Phew fantastic puts my mind at rest, will do the water changes and keep you all updated :)

Pic attached
I'm not good with cichlids I'm afraid, I recognise the yellow ones as yellow labs, might be a couple of convicts in there, but apart from that I'm clueless. @Wills @Metalhead88 @Naughts and @Colin_T might be able to help you with IDs :)
 

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