My tiger barb is acting strange

Misaka Baduge

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I have two tiger barbs and one of them is swimming slowly and going up to the top of the tank and then going back down to the bottom. I know that this means he is dying but I want to know why. We had the water tested a few weeks ago and yPh and nitrite leveled where normal. When we bought it the guy who took it out of the tank did squeeze it a bit but I’m not sure if that is

Things the fish does:
Rapid breathing
Going to the surface
Slow swimming

Tank description:
55 gallon
6 live plants
5 pieces of real driftwood

8E9FF18A-2747-4FAF-A1EC-5D0AFB69E275.jpeg
 
What's the ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH now?

Do a 75% water change and gravel clean the substrate every day until we figure out what is going on.
Make sure any new water is free of chlorine/ chloramine before it's added to the tank.
 
Agree we need the test numbers. Always give the numbers in posts, so other members know more exactly.

There is another issue here that may be related. Tiger Barb is a shoaling fish and it needs a group of its own species. Given it is also a feisty and somewhat aggressive species, it needs even more of its own. A group of 10-12 would be minimum. Without this number, a TB is very likely to harass another TB when there are only two of them (or anything less than the group, frankly). This can cause stress which weakens fish. But before getting more, sort out this one, and give us the other fish and numbers in the tank. TB are not compatible with some other types of fish.
 
Agree we need the test numbers. Always give the numbers in posts, so other members know more exactly.

There is another issue here that may be related. Tiger Barb is a shoaling fish and it needs a group of its own species. Given it is also a feisty and somewhat aggressive species, it needs even more of its own. A group of 10-12 would be minimum. Without this number, a TB is very likely to harass another TB when there are only two of them (or anything less than the group, frankly). This can cause stress which weakens fish. But before getting more, sort out this one, and give us the other fish and numbers in the tank. TB are not compatible with some other types of fish.
That may be the problem , the other tank mates are:
2 black tetras
2 zebra fish male and female
2 rainbows
2 swordtails makes and female
And of course the two tiger barbs

how ever there was no aggression that I saw
 
That may be the problem , the other tank mates are:
2 black tetras
2 zebra fish male and female
2 rainbows
2 swordtails makes and female
And of course the two tiger barbs

how ever there was no aggression that I saw

I really hate to be giving bad news, but we all must learn what is needed and best for our fish. Some of these fish, in fact all of them except for the swordtails, are shoaling fish. These species live in large groups, and they have inherent needs for a group of their own species. Sometimes it may be as simple as security, "safety in numbers," while in other species there are hierarchies, interactive behaviours, etc. We know that when a shoaling fish is denied an adequate sized group of its own, it will suffer stress which then leads to other problems with its health (the immune system is severely weakened by stress), and very frequently increased aggression because that is just about the only way the fish can deal with something it needs being denied it. These needs are part of the species' DNA, so we cannot change them.

You have space with a 55g fortunately, so increasing the numbers of the shoaling fish is your best option. Before doing that, you should consider carefully the natural behaviours of the individual species; you may find that one or more will not bee compatible for long. The fact that you do not see aggression does not mean it is not present. Fish usually display aggressive tendencies physically, but sometimes they will only release pheromones (read by others in that species) and allomones (read by other species) and these can severely stress fish that are targeted.

Tiger Barbs for example are naturally aggressive and tend to fin nip sedate or long-finned fish. In a group less than 10 they may nip ach other; in larger groups this usually is under control, but not when it comes to sedate fish or fish with long fins, which are like waving a red flag in front of a bull. This same aspect applies to the Black Tetra, if this is the Black Widow or Black Skirt Tetra. This fish too is naturally prone to nip fins, and needs 8+ with more always being better.

The rainbowfish, what species is this? They are shoaling and need a group, but they are different sizes with some different needs respecting water parameters.

Also, what is the GH and pH of the source water? Some fish here (swordtails) need moderately hard water, the others are more soft water (rainbowfish depend upon the species) but with more adaptability, depending upon the actual GH.
 
I really hate to be giving bad news, but we all must learn what is needed and best for our fish. Some of these fish, in fact all of them except for the swordtails, are shoaling fish. These species live in large groups, and they have inherent needs for a group of their own species. Sometimes it may be as simple as security, "safety in numbers," while in other species there are hierarchies, interactive behaviours, etc. We know that when a shoaling fish is denied an adequate sized group of its own, it will suffer stress which then leads to other problems with its health (the immune system is severely weakened by stress), and very frequently increased aggression because that is just about the only way the fish can deal with something it needs being denied it. These needs are part of the species' DNA, so we cannot change them.

You have space with a 55g fortunately, so increasing the numbers of the shoaling fish is your best option. Before doing that, you should consider carefully the natural behaviours of the individual species; you may find that one or more will not bee compatible for long. The fact that you do not see aggression does not mean it is not present. Fish usually display aggressive tendencies physically, but sometimes they will only release pheromones (read by others in that species) and allomones (read by other species) and these can severely stress fish that are targeted.

Tiger Barbs for example are naturally aggressive and tend to fin nip sedate or long-finned fish. In a group less than 10 they may nip ach other; in larger groups this usually is under control, but not when it comes to sedate fish or fish with long fins, which are like waving a red flag in front of a bull. This same aspect applies to the Black Tetra, if this is the Black Widow or Black Skirt Tetra. This fish too is naturally prone to nip fins, and needs 8+ with more always being better.

The rainbowfish, what species is this? They are shoaling and need a group, but they are different sizes with some different needs respecting water parameters.

Also, what is the GH and pH of the source water? Some fish here (swordtails) need moderately hard water, the others are more soft water (rainbowfish depend upon the species) but with more adaptability, depending upon the actual GH.
Thank you so much for the reply, we are currently in the process of buying more fish and my zebras recently bred, we only buy at least 5 at a time because of the price of these fish.
 
We need to know your pH, GH and KH of your source water. This can be found on your local water providers page.
 
Yes I know, I currently don’t have that info but will get it as soon as possible
You're online now right? Then you can get on your local water providers page, put your postcode in and do a screenshot of the results and post it here so we can figure it out.
 
You're online now right? Then you can get on your local water providers page, put your postcode in and do a screenshot of the results and post it here so we can figure it out.
I don’t have a water provider, I get tap water and neutralize the chlorine with API chlorine and heavy metal neutralizer, to get the numbers i would have to go to the nearest pet smart and have the water tested
 
I don’t have a water provider, I get tap water and neutralize the chlorine with API chlorine and heavy metal neutralizer, to get the numbers i would have to go to the nearest pet smart and have the water tested
If I were you, I wouldn't trust petsmart or others with their 'all is well' "advice". Everyone has a water provider, I do, @essjay does and everyone else as we and you don'te get free water for sure. Please do find your water provider and post your pH, GH and KH.
@Byron
 
I don’t have a water provider, I get tap water and neutralize the chlorine with API chlorine and heavy metal neutralizer, to get the numbers i would have to go to the nearest pet smart and have the water tested

If you have tap water, it comes either from a private well or the region/city/municipality you live in. If the latter, they may have a website, and water data may be posted. Or you can call them and ask. This is more reliable that store tests, though that is another option.
 

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