Zebra Daino white bubble spots on fin only

Aly4Jesus

New Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2020
Messages
11
Reaction score
1
Location
USA
20200324_140053.jpg
20200324_135935.jpg

My male zebra daino has transparent white bubble spots on its fins only for the past few months. I tried treating him with API super ich for about 1 week in a separate tank, but it did not cure or reduce the spots. I then tried putting him back in the community, raising the temp to 86° with salt and Melafix & Primafix for about 2.5wks; but nothing changed. Now one of my female dainos has it on her fins only. None of my other fish in the tank have this. Any idea what this is or how to treat it?
My fish community consists of 4 Zebra Dainos (three are golden and one is grey), 2 Guppies (recently have 12 of their fry), 3 Corydoras, 2 Kuhli Loaches, 3 Ottos, and 2 snails.
My water measurements are perfect except nitrate (probably from too many fish), but I keep that under control with weekly water changes. My tank temp is between 74°-75°. I use Seachem Prime (in new water for water changes), Stability, Pristine, SafeGuard, and Matrix media. I have an Aqueon 30 gallon filter, bubble wall, double sponge filter, and recently a small bubbler. My substrate is sand.
Any ideas would be helpful since it seems like it has passed onto a female zebra daino.
 
I cannot see anything...would a video be possible? Or a photo not quite so close? Other members may see what I can't, so I will move on to a couple general comments.

Never add treatments unless you are fairly certain there is a real problem, and then choose the most effective and safest treatment. Any and all medications/additives will cause fish further stress, and if what is being added is not going to actually help, things will just get worse. Stress is the cause of 95% of all aquarium fish disease issues, so avoiding stress is key.

There are too many additives being used. Prime is a conditioner so that is OK at water changes. But there is no need to be adding Stability, Pristine, or SafeGuard. These are just more chemical compounds getting inside the fish. Substances added to the tank water get inside the fish, into the bloodstream, and at the very least this causes stress and usually difficulties for the fish.

If you do definitely have ich, and there is nothing in the photos here suggesting ich, heat is generally the best treatment. Never use so-called ich remedies, they are far harder on most fish, and often don't work anyway.

Also, more info please. Tank size, dimensions and volume, and water change frequency and volume. Other members will want this info to help you.
 
I cannot see anything...would a video be possible? Or a photo not quite so close? Other members may see what I can't, so I will move on to a couple general comments.

Never add treatments unless you are fairly certain there is a real problem, and then choose the most effective and safest treatment. Any and all medications/additives will cause fish further stress, and if what is being added is not going to actually help, things will just get worse. Stress is the cause of 95% of all aquarium fish disease issues, so avoiding stress is key.

There are too many additives being used. Prime is a conditioner so that is OK at water changes. But there is no need to be adding Stability, Pristine, or SafeGuard. These are just more chemical compounds getting inside the fish. Substances added to the tank water get inside the fish, into the bloodstream, and at the very least this causes stress and usually difficulties for the fish.

If you do definitely have ich, and there is nothing in the photos here suggesting ich, heat is generally the best treatment. Never use so-called ich remedies, they are far harder on most fish, and often don't work anyway.

Also, more info please. Tank size, dimensions and volume, and water change frequency and volume. Other members will want this info to help you.

My tank size 24in x 16in x 12in and is 20gallons. Water changes of 6-7 gallons about once a week. The Seachem chemicals I use only for water changes to help keep my water measurements good. It was never meant to treat the issue with the Dainos. I had issues keeping the water clean without the Seachem chemicals. I've used these chemicals for about 1.5yrs now. I'll try to get a video, since these guys are quick swimmers
 
I can't see anything either. Can you clean the glass and take some more pictures. Then tell use which fins have the dots/ bubbles on.

They could be air bubbles stuck to the mucous on the body or something else but we need to see them. :)
 
My tank size 24in x 16in x 12in and is 20gallons. Water changes of 6-7 gallons about once a week. The Seachem chemicals I use only for water changes to help keep my water measurements good. It was never meant to treat the issue with the Dainos. I had issues keeping the water clean without the Seachem chemicals. I've used these chemicals for about 1.5yrs now. I'll try to get a video, since these guys are quick swimmers

The problem with using any "treatment" for water quality/clarity is that it only hides the problem, it doesn't actually fix anything. And in the process, the fish are harmed even more. If water quality is not good, there is an underlying reason and that must be discovered and rectified. An aquarium is an artificial bit of the natural world, but the various chemistry and biology processes that govern the habitat/nature still apply in the aquarium. We need to work with those, not against them, and any chemical substance added is the latter.

Regular weekly water changes should be at least half the tank, or a bit more. This is recommended for any aquarium. Specific problems may require more frequent changes, but a once-weekly W/C of 60-70% of the tank volume is very beneficial, always. I have been doing this for over 20 years, and I know it makes a big difference to my fishes. Regular filter cleaning too, and vacuuming the substrate at the W/C.

A video should help us ID the "spots."
 
20200324_163021.jpg

I tried posting a video, but it says the uploaded file doesnt have a supported extension. So here's a closer photo where I circled the issues. It's a transparent white bubble that goes through the fin. Looks like ich but didn't react to ich treatment or higher water temp of 86 for 2wks.
 
upload the video to YouTube and copy & paste the link here. We can view it at YouTube.
 
Here's the video. Again it's hard to see him because he hangs out by the filter so it's a hard angle to view. Someone mentioned lymphocystis so added that to the title.
 
it's not lymphocystis.

I can't tell what it is from the angle. It looks like there is excess mucous on the ends of the male's pectoral (side) fins but it's really hard to make out anything.
 
it's not lymphocystis.

I can't tell what it is from the angle. It looks like there is excess mucous on the ends of the male's pectoral (side) fins but it's really hard to make out anything.

It doesn't come off like mucous and has been there for a few months. Just recently I noticed one of my female Dainos has it slightly too. It protrudes like a bubble through the fin and isn't restricted to only the top or bottom. That's why I originally thought it was ich.
 
I'm guessing here because I can't see much in the pictures.

If there is a small white lump on the fins and it is growing slowing where the fin rays are, it could be a calcium growth on the fin ray. This is more common in older fish.

If it's a clear bubble it could be skin that has expanded and this can be caused by alkalosis (sudden rise in pH), or bacteria under the skin.
 
I'm guessing here because I can't see much in the pictures.

If there is a small white lump on the fins and it is growing slowing where the fin rays are, it could be a calcium growth on the fin ray. This is more common in older fish.

If it's a clear bubble it could be skin that has expanded and this can be caused by alkalosis (sudden rise in pH), or bacteria under the skin.

Well he's about 2yrs old, and my general hardness is usually between a 3-5. My pH tends be between 7.2-7.8 but usually resides closer to 7.2
 
Your pH and GH are fine.

What is the water temperature?
Danios age quickly in warm water and a fish kept in 24-26C water will be old at 2 years.
 
Your pH and GH are fine.

What is the water temperature?
Danios age quickly in warm water and a fish kept in 24-26C water will be old at 2 years.

That makes sense that he would be old then. My water temp is typically 74°-75°. I use to have it at 69°-70° for the 1st year but my fish weren't as active.
 
That makes sense that he would be old then. My water temp is typically 74°-75°. I use to have it at 69°-70° for the 1st year but my fish weren't as active.

Right before he had this, the Dainos had eggs which they ate up. Is it possible they ate too much calcium from their eggs?
 

Most reactions

Back
Top