Making a filter

mhancock

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Hi,

I'm making a filter to replace the one in the hood of a tank I was given, which is very noisy.

First attempt worked well, but it is apparent that the over flow I'd used was too narrow for the flow rate of the pump.

I'm now going to redo it with 40mm waste pipe.

My question is: am I ok using regular silicone sealant in the filter to make the join water tight, or should I use special stuff?

Thanks,

Mark
 
Most silicone sealants have additives that are toxic to fish. You MUST use one that's labelled as safe for aquariums.
 
Just like sealing a tank, GE Silicone I Window and Door is safe for aquariums. However, note that silicone may not adhere well to most plastics. (You might sand to create a rough surface and clean with alcohol, but iffy still). Also, ensure it is FULLY cured (48+ hours) before using.
I have also used an incredible German super glue (a cyanoacrylate adhesive) called Max 1 that when cured, is aquarium safe.
 
I've had a few cyanoacrylate projects give way after time and exposure to water. Now drinking water safe solvent weld, that stuff is great underwater.
 
Thanks for the comments, is all superglue safe?

Mark

Ps will put some pics up when done
 
IMG_20180922_091750.jpg
IMG_20180922_091756.jpg
IMG_20180922_091801.jpg

So here's the hopefully finished filter. It's a little noisier in place than it was in testing, but much quieter then the previous waterfall style design.

Having the heater here hidden in the hood makes the tank look nicer, and a benefit I was not expecting is the air being drawn down.

The higher black tube is for emergency overflow. It will probably never be needed but I didn't want to risk not having it!

Thanks for the advice with this,

Mark
 
If you want a dual outlet to be quieter then you can put a 180 degree bend (with an open topped vent at the top of the bend) on the higher tube and then throttle down the lower tube so that a tiny amount goes through the higher. That way the lower tube basically runs with a slow by silent syphon and carries most of the flow, leaving a tiny flow to the higher tube. If the lower tube blocks then, as the level rises it covers the open top on the bend and the larger tube goes full syphon. The noise level goes up and you spot that there's a problem.
 
Looking at the photo, a couple of thoughts came to me about the design that I thought I'd share. It looks like water comes in piped to the bottom and you have filter floss secured with rocks and bio-balls floating around. Consider a top tray to contain the filter floss (easier to service) and then Seachem Matrix/De*Nitrate or Marinepure CerMedia in the lower chamber.
 

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