Is my tank overcrowded? of

Bought the Jewel Lido 120 litre aquarium yesterday. Currently have 6 fish in a smaller tank, I plan on moving them into their new home in a couple week. This is my tank setup. Is the tank too overcrowded with accessories or will this be okay?

Just so everyone knows, the fish from the small tank (your earlier thread) being moved to this larger tank are 2 each of Harlequin Rasbora, Lemon Tetra and Rosy Tetra.

You will need to cycle this new tank. I asked about this in the other thread, so will leave that and move to the fish species.

These species are shoaling fish, meaning they live in groups of hundreds, so they must have a group in the aquarium. You do not need hundreds, but there are minimums though the fish will always be better the more there are above minimums. Fortunately your 120 liter (30 gallon) allows you to have decent sized groups of the three species here. Not all shoaling fish would work.

I would get at least seven or eight of each of these species. Assuming you want them, because this is going to pretty much fill the tank. You could add some substrate fish, like a group of Corydoras catfish. But you are maxed out for upper level fish. Alternatively, you could return one or more of the fish you have, increase the group for the species you keep, and consider other fish species.

With what you now have, the Rosy Tetra tend to remain in the lower third of the aquarium, the Rasbora tend to remain mid-level. So these two are a good combo; plus, they are both sedate species, meaning non-active swimmers, and that is another factor to be kept in mind. Active fish and non-active fish tend not to do well, as the activity can stress the sedate fish. Lemon Tetra are more on the active side, and tend to remain pretty much mid-level in my experience. They are not too active for the other two mentioned, but if you were to get really sedate fish like gourami, this would not work.

The other thing I forgot to mention was water parameters. Do you know the GH (general or total hardness), KH (carbonate hardness or Alkalinity) and pH of your source water? That is the tap water on its own, not in the aquarium. These you may be able to ascertain from the water authority, their website or call them. Get the unit of measurement they use along with the number.

Byron said:

The other thing I forgot to mention was water parameters. Do you know the GH (general or total hardness), KH (carbonate hardness or Alkalinity) and pH of your source water? That is the tap water on its own, not in the aquarium. These you may be able to ascertain from the water authority, their website or call them. Get the unit of measurement they use along with the number.

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I bought some Ammonia test strips and a 6-in-1 test kit from Pets at home to check my tank. But I don't really know what should be considered 'normal'. I know the Ammonia should be at 0. Which it is. But the others I don't understand.

Tomie said:

I bought some Ammonia test strips and a 6-in-1 test kit from Pets at home to check my tank. But I don't really know what should be considered 'normal'. I know the Ammonia should be at 0. Which it is. But the others I don't understand.

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With fish in the aquarium, ammonia must be zero, and nitrite must be zero. Nitrate should be as low as possible, certainly no higher than 20 ppm. You should check your tap water alone for all three, just in case. Keeping nitrate low in the aquarium is fairly easy, it involves fish load, fish feeding, water changes, keeping the filter clean, vacuuming the substrate. Live plants, even if just floating, also help.

Read the articles I mentioned in the other thread about cycling.

Byron said:

With fish in the aquarium, ammonia must be zero, and nitrite must be zero. Nitrate should be as low as possible, certainly no higher than 20 ppm. You should check your tap water alone for all three, just in case. Keeping nitrate low in the aquarium is fairly easy, it involves fish load, fish feeding, water changes, keeping the filter clean, vacuuming the substrate. Live plants, even if just floating, also help.

Read the articles I mentioned in the other thread about cycling.

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If there is Ammonia in the tank or Nitrite how would i go about getting rid of it? Just a simple water change?

Tomie said:

If there is Ammonia in the tank or Nitrite how would i go about getting rid of it? Just a simple water change?

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If this is an established aquarium, you need to ascertain the cause. Large water changes, using Prime (which detoxifies ammonia and nitrite, though only temporarily for 24-36 hours).

During cycling, which is likely the issue here, daily water changes with Prime, daily testing (before the water change), adding a bacterial supplement or some form of "seeding". Please read those articles, they explain all this in great detail.

Byron said:

If this is an established aquarium, you need to ascertain the cause. Large water changes, using Prime (which detoxifies ammonia and nitrite, though only temporarily for 24-36 hours).

During cycling, which is likely the issue here, daily water changes with Prime, daily testing (before the water change), adding a bacterial supplement or some form of "seeding". Please read those articles, they explain all this in great detail.

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I've just read the post about cycling. You need ammonia in your tank to start the cycle, right? Would adding fish food to the tank start the cycle? I've had my aquarium running for 24 hours but i've not added anything into it, i was just told to leave my tank running for a week then add my new fish. I'm truly baffled at how much there is to know about keeping fish yet so interested.

Tomie said:

I've just read the post about cycling. You need ammonia in your tank to start the cycle, right? Would adding fish food to the tank start the cycle? I've had my aquarium running for 24 hours but i've not added anything into it, i was just told to leave my tank running for a week then add my new fish. I'm truly baffled at how much there is to know about keeping fish yet so interested.

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One thing you have learned now...fish store advice is often not worth much. Depends upon the store and the staff of course, but in general, check with this forum before assuming the advice from a store is reliable.

Fish food can work, but it generally takes longer. The article on cycling is complete, I can't add anything to what it suggests.

Now, there is also the bacterial supplements. Dr. Tim's One and Only, Tetra's SafeStart. I have had success with Seachem's Stability. The latter two speed up the establishment of the nitrifying bacteria, the first (Dr. Tim's) actually cycles if directions are followed. With just the six small fish in the 125 liter, with one of these, you should be OK. Understand this is a different method from true cycling. But it will work with few fish, not a small tank, and testing daily.