Juwel Lighting Failed - Replacement Advice Needed

Hi all, so the ballast in my Juwel rekord 96 has failed and I am looking at changing the old magnetic ballast for an electronic one and adding an extra bulb.
The old ballast powered a single 20W t8 (60cm) bulb. I will keep the original hood and put the new ballast in the same place as the old one as it is thankfully fairly easy to get to.
Obviously I will seal everything up so that it is waterproof.
 
I am looking at the following parts to get it working, could you let me know if I am going mad or if you think it should work because I have never done anything like this before
 
http/www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251269254981?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
http/cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=251276963390&ssPageName=ADME:RTQ:GB:1123
 
 
If it all works I will take pictures as I go and write it up on here so that others in the same place can avoid my mistakes.
 
Thanks!

Hello thomton.

Have you checked out

www.allpondsolutions.co.uk/aquarium-1/aquarium-lighting/aquarium-t5-lighting.html

Am sure you could find one that fits your tank and I think they look nicer. Also the t5 lights produce more light over t8 and so if you go down the plant route its so much better!

The stuff you linked would work but you'll have to be quite good at wiring stuff and make sure every checks out (voltage wise, amps etc)

Could you give me your verdict on this:
 
http/cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=251231824343&ssPageName=ADME:eRTM:GB:1123
 
Although the lights on your link look great they are quite expensive! My tank is 80cm wide.

Hi thomtom,
 
I had my ballast give up on me during xmas. 2 x 24w t5 unit.
 
Used a jigsaw cutter to cut a rectangle out of the top of my lamp unit. removed the old one. bought a replacement from the internet. was not exactly the same brand  but the cost was £15 for the ballast. also i got a piece of black plastic cut to size, delivered to my house and some non toxic sealant.
 
total cost £15+ £6+3 = £24.
 
For a new light unit i was quoted £100 for my production made tank. So my saving was £76. Bargain and it looks great too.
 
Hope this helps and good luck,
 
Dave

Not sure if you've seen this post in the hardware section, may give you a few tips.
 
http/www.fishforums.net/index.php?/topic/265546-fixing-juwel-light-bar/

Hello,

My 2p worth... if that's O.K.

BTW, I normally hang out on the DIY and hardware section where you will find a few lighting threads re. ballast replacements etc.

The connecting up of the ballast part is actually the easiest bit.. I understand perfectly that most people are hesitant about working with electricity/electronic devices and that connecting up a ballast is "foreign" to them.

There are a few basic safety requirements which may not be obvious to everyone... all I would say here is have a look at the above mentioned threads and just ask if you have any questions.. Nobody is born knowing this stuff! but believe me, it really is easy!

The most important parts regarding long term reliability and safety is the isolation of **anything** that carrys electricity from water/moist air.

This is why waterproof tube sockets are used wherever a tube is powered up in close proximity to water (without some sort of splashguard being present).

Next, as long as any replacement ballast is properly matched to the tubes (power rating, number of tubes supported etc.) then you shouldn't have any problems.

One common "gotcha" with electronic ballasts is that there are two basic types... The type required is dictated by how your lights are wired.

The easy way to tell is this: If your tube sockets each have 2 conductors (4 wires per tube) then you need a hot cathode type ballast. If your tube sockets only have 1 conductor (2 wires per tube) then you must use a cold cathode type ballast.
 
Now, you can use a cold cathode ballast in a light wired for a hot cathode ballast but you cannot (normally) use a hot cathode ballast in a light wired wired for a cold cathode one.
 
O.K. How do you identify one type of ballast from the other? You will normally find that the ballast has a wiring schematic printed on the case. This will show the type immediately.
 

 
The image on the left hand shows a typical cold cathode ballast schematic. Note that there is only one connection per tube end.(This particular cold cathode ballast supports either 1 or 2 tubes... Most ballasts have specific requirements.)
The image on the right hand side shows a typical hot cathode type. Note that there are two connections per tube end. This is the important bit!
 
Now you will find hot cathode ballasts with 6, 7 or 8 connection terminals. All this means is that one or more wires are connected together (they may or may not then be connected to the ballast).
If anyone has any questions then please post in the hardware secton.
 
BTW, don't forget.. If you are replacing a magnetic ballast with an electronic type then don't forget to remove the starters (and wiring) as these are not required with electronic ballasts.
 
Sorry to go on a bit! I just hope that this helps someone.
 
Bodge99.

Hello,
 
Just to clarify a bit...
 
When I say that the ballast schematics show 1 or 2 connections per tube end, I am referring to the number of wires that are drawn connected to each end of the tube symbol in the schematic. I'm not referring to the numbered ballast terminal connections.
 
Bodge99.