Treating Tank For Ich But Now Doubt If It's Ich At All

Kelly-Jo · Jun 12, 2011

Are the spots slightly furry looking at all? If so, it could be some kind of fungal infection.

AvidD · Jun 12, 2011

lyolya said:
yeh, fo sure! this med is herbal, does not affect my bacteria, does not need water changes, safe for even a snal, and can also be used as a preventative. in case ur not too sure about that here's their info on it
http/www.novalek.com/kordon/ich_attack/index.htm

i'm actually really happy with this treatment, i just hope it works lol

Ahh Kordon's Ick-Attack. Well Kordon's is a trusted brand, I've used their dechlor before (AmQuel). Never used their Ick-Attack, but I've heard good things. I like the fact that it's organic & doesn't contain malachite green or formalin :good:

. That stuff can be pretty harsh (especially malachite green - it's harsh & turns all your silicone bluish/green lol).

Just make sure you keep this statement on the Kordon's website in mind as you continue treatment.

"If the fish have white spot disease, also called Ich (Ichthiophthirius), the treatment will need to be made daily every day without omission until all of the “white spots” have hatched out and their young have been killed by the treatments. This may take weeks for all of the "white spots" to hatch out. While they are in the "white spot" stage on the fish, there is no known effective treatment. Only when the "white spots" hatch out and are in a brief free-swimming stage are they susceptible to treatment."

It's more important that you keep dosing your tank consistently for a long enough period than it is to increase your dosages 2x - 3x. Seeing as it's organic I guess if you wanted to increase your dosages to 2x for your own peace of mind that it couldn't hurt any. But 3x I think is just a waste of meds & it's Kordon's way of getting you to buy more bottles :sly:

lol. Increasing your meds 3X isn't going to speed up the process any, (as you already know) increasing your water temp will speed up the protozoan cycle but you'll still need to give it about 2 - 3 weeks.

Just be patient, as long as you continue treatment it will pass. Ich is one of the easiest to treat fish diseases as long as it's caught & treated early enough (which you have done). Just remember to do about a 50% WC when you're done with treatment & give your substrate a good vac/cleaning to get all the dead cysts etc, up off the bottom.

lyolya · Jun 12, 2011

AvidD said:
lyolya said:

yeh, fo sure! this med is herbal, does not affect my bacteria, does not need water changes, safe for even a snal, and can also be used as a preventative. in case ur not too sure about that here's their info on it
http/www.novalek.com/kordon/ich_attack/index.htm

i'm actually really happy with this treatment, i just hope it works lol

Click to expand...

Ahh Kordon's Ick-Attack. Well Kordon's is a trusted brand, I've used their dechlor before (AmQuel). Never used their Ick-Attack, but I've heard good things. I like the fact that it's organic & doesn't contain malachite green or formalin . That stuff can be pretty harsh (especially malachite green - it's harsh & turns all your silicone bluish/green lol).

Just make sure you keep this statement on the Kordon's website in mind as you continue treatment.

"If the fish have white spot disease, also called Ich (Ichthiophthirius), the treatment will need to be made daily every day without omission until all of the “white spots” have hatched out and their young have been killed by the treatments. This may take weeks for all of the "white spots" to hatch out. While they are in the "white spot" stage on the fish, there is no known effective treatment. Only when the "white spots" hatch out and are in a brief free-swimming stage are they susceptible to treatment."

It's more important that you keep dosing your tank consistently for a long enough period than it is to increase your dosages 2x - 3x. Seeing as it's organic I guess if you wanted to increase your dosages to 2x for your own peace of mind that it couldn't hurt any. But 3x I think is just a waste of meds & it's Kordon's way of getting you to buy more bottles lol. Increasing your meds 3X isn't going to speed up the process any, (as you already know) increasing your water temp will speed up the protozoan cycle but you'll still need to give it about 2 - 3 weeks.

Just be patient, as long as you continue treatment it will pass. Ich is one of the easiest to treat fish diseases as long as it's caught & treated early enough (which you have done). Just remember to do about a 50% WC when you're done with treatment & give your substrate a good vac/cleaning to get all the dead cysts etc, up off the bottom.

u know i think ur definetly right about 3x! i decided to do 2x, one in the morning one in the evening. the pleco is looking somewhat better. he still has plenty of spots on the fins, but the body is not covered so much as it was before. danio still has spots on that one fin. still no other spots seen on any other fish. i'll definetly keep up the treatment, i think i need to run to the store and get a bigger bottle though lol not too cheap! $6.99 for a small bottle that i almost used up for +/- a week. but considering the benefits of this medication i honestly don't care if it costed $100 lol

do u have any advice as to cleaning the gravel from the cysts? i have the plant gravel (sorry don't remember the name, but its the one that's good for plants) and plants of course. i heard that you only need to clean just a little from the top, as the rest is consumed by plants. one of the guys working in LFS eevn told me that if i were to vacuum the tank like with regular gravel then that might cause a spike in nitrites and cause another mini-cycle. one time when i was digging a whole for one of my new plants i noticed a huge cloud of stuff rising from the bottom, and i guess that's exactly what he was talkign about. any suggestions?

AvidD · Jun 12, 2011

lyolya said:
u know i think ur definetly right about 3x! i decided to do 2x, one in the morning one in the evening. the pleco is looking somewhat better. he still has plenty of spots on the fins, but the body is not covered so much as it was before. danio still has spots on that one fin. still no other spots seen on any other fish. i'll definetly keep up the treatment, i think i need to run to the store and get a bigger bottle though lol not too cheap! $6.99 for a small bottle that i almost used up for +/- a week. but considering the benefits of this medication i honestly don't care if it costed $100 lol

do u have any advice as to cleaning the gravel from the cysts? i have the plant gravel (sorry don't remember the name, but its the one that's good for plants) and plants of course. i heard that you only need to clean just a little from the top, as the rest is consumed by plants. one of the guys working in LFS eevn told me that if i were to vacuum the tank like with regular gravel then that might cause a spike in nitrites and cause another mini-cycle. one time when i was digging a whole for one of my new plants i noticed a huge cloud of stuff rising from the bottom, and i guess that's exactly what he was talkign about. any suggestions?

haha yeah I might be right but hey I guess the good folks @ Kordon's have to eat too $$$ so I won't be too hard on them

. But I hear you on the cost, that's why I like using salt. For one; I always have salt on hand for other things, it's relatively inexpensive (even Epsom salt is relatively inexpensive compared to meds), & most importantly it's effective. However, after reading up on Kordon's Ick Attack I wouldn't have any qualms using it myself, but it's nice having salt as an option in a pinch.

I believe the sand you are referring to is Fluorite (which is usually black) or it might be some sort of sand/fluorite mix. I just use plain ole play sand.

I use gravel or sand in my tanks & I go bare bottom as well. In my gravel bottom tanks I just use a gravel vac & indiscriminately run it about my gravel being as I don't use gravel in planted tanks. In my planted tanks that I use sand in, I just take off the "gravel vac nozzle" from the siphoning tube. Then I take one end of the siphoning tube, get a siphon going & then I swirl the end that I have submersed in water around any mull/detritus etc I see on the surface of the sand while stopping/holding the siphon "in check" with my finger on the other end. This will kick up the mulm/detritus but not the sand (at least not too much of it). Then I'll release the siphon with my finger & "suck" out the mulm/detritus that's been kicked up & is suspended in mid-water & then stop the siphon again with my finger, go to another section that needs "vacuuming", swirl & repeat the whole process again until I'm satisfied that I got enough mulm/detritus off of the surface of the sand bed. Inevitably you might suck out a little bit of sand, but you can easily place those small quantities back in or replace it all together with new sand (up to you).

As far as disturbing your sand bed is concerned, I don't want to dispel the info the LFS employee shared with you. However, I wouldn't overly concern myself with NOT disturbing the sand. As a matter of fact, unlike gravel bottom tanks, sand bottom tanks are susceptible to anaerobic spots or pockets so disturbing the sand bed a bit is a good thing to prevent this. No doubt your pleco/cories help out in this regard & if you are using MTS, they'll help out a bit too. But you going in there every once in a while with the siphoning tube & moving the sand around a bit (just use the tube with no siphon going to gently shift some sand around) doesn't hurt anything, it actually helps & is a good habit to get into.

lyolya · Jun 12, 2011

AvidD said:
lyolya said:

u know i think ur definetly right about 3x! i decided to do 2x, one in the morning one in the evening. the pleco is looking somewhat better. he still has plenty of spots on the fins, but the body is not covered so much as it was before. danio still has spots on that one fin. still no other spots seen on any other fish. i'll definetly keep up the treatment, i think i need to run to the store and get a bigger bottle though lol not too cheap! $6.99 for a small bottle that i almost used up for +/- a week. but considering the benefits of this medication i honestly don't care if it costed $100 lol

do u have any advice as to cleaning the gravel from the cysts? i have the plant gravel (sorry don't remember the name, but its the one that's good for plants) and plants of course. i heard that you only need to clean just a little from the top, as the rest is consumed by plants. one of the guys working in LFS eevn told me that if i were to vacuum the tank like with regular gravel then that might cause a spike in nitrites and cause another mini-cycle. one time when i was digging a whole for one of my new plants i noticed a huge cloud of stuff rising from the bottom, and i guess that's exactly what he was talkign about. any suggestions?

Click to expand...

haha yeah I might be right but hey I guess the good folks @ Kordon's have to eat too $$$ so I won't be too hard on them . But I hear you on the cost, that's why I like using salt. For one; I always have salt on hand for other things, it's relatively inexpensive (even Epsom salt is relatively inexpensive compared to meds), & most importantly it's effective. However, after reading up on Kordon's Ick Attack I wouldn't have any qualms using it myself, but it's nice having salt as an option in a pinch.

I believe the sand you are referring to is Fluorite (which is usually black) or it might be some sort of sand/fluorite mix. I just use plain ole play sand.

I use gravel or sand in my tanks & I go bare bottom as well. In my gravel bottom tanks I just use a gravel vac & indiscriminately run it about my gravel being as I don't use gravel in planted tanks. In my planted tanks that I use sand in, I just take off the "gravel vac nozzle" from the siphoning tube. Then I take one end of the siphoning tube, get a siphon going & then I swirl the end that I have submersed in water around any mull/detritus etc I see on the surface of the sand while stopping/holding the siphon "in check" with my finger on the other end. This will kick up the mulm/detritus but not the sand (at least not too much of it). Then I'll release the siphon with my finger & "suck" out the mulm/detritus that's been kicked up & is suspended in mid-water & then stop the siphon again with my finger, go to another section that needs "vacuuming", swirl & repeat the whole process again until I'm satisfied that I got enough mulm/detritus off of the surface of the sand bed. Inevitably you might suck out a little bit of sand, but you can easily place those small quantities back in or replace it all together with new sand (up to you).

As far as disturbing your sand bed is concerned, I don't want to dispel the info the LFS employee shared with you. However, I wouldn't overly concern myself with NOT disturbing the sand. As a matter of fact, unlike gravel bottom tanks, sand bottom tanks are susceptible to anaerobic spots or pockets so disturbing the sand bed a bit is a good thing to prevent this. No doubt your pleco/cories help out in this regard & if you are using MTS, they'll help out a bit too. But you going in there every once in a while with the siphoning tube & moving the sand around a bit (just use the tube with no siphon going to gently shift some sand around) doesn't hurt anything, it actually helps & is a good habit to get into.

AvidD, that's some great info, but i actually have gravel! it's kinda brownish and is supposed to be super porous for the plants. it's mixed with some regular gravel, so i actually have a pretty thick bed. for my corys i have a sand pool, but to be honest they don't spend too much time in there and their barbels are growing out great from the stumps that i got them with in the store. anyway, i guess i'll just vacuum top to mid levels of my gravel and hopefully most of the dead suckers will be gone. u think that's good?

btw, thank u again for all of ur advice, it's been really helpful and reassuring that i'm doing the right thing!

AvidD · Jun 12, 2011

lyolya said:
AvidD, that's some great info, but i actually have gravel! it's kinda brownish and is supposed to be super porous for the plants. it's mixed with some regular gravel, so i actually have a pretty thick bed. for my corys i have a sand pool, but to be honest they don't spend too much time in there and their barbels are growing out great from the stumps that i got them with in the store. anyway, i guess i'll just vacuum top to mid levels of my gravel and hopefully most of the dead suckers will be gone. u think that's good?

btw, thank u again for all of ur advice, it's been really helpful and reassuring that i'm doing the right thing!

DOH!

You did say gravel lol. I just assumed sand (fluorite) because a lot of people always have questions on how best to clean their sand bottom tanks, my mistake!

OK for the gravel, since you are not doing any water changes or maintenance to the tank until after you're done with treatment then it should remain pretty much undisturbed. That means that a lot of the cysts & dead protozoa will be mostly on the surface of the gravel. I suggest that you first run the siphon tube (siphoned of course but without the gravel vac nozzle attached) over the surface of the gravel, do it a few times (at least 2x maybe 3x or however many times you like) to ensure you get as much of it up as possible. After you have thoroughly "scoured" the surface then you can attach the gravel vac nozzle & give the gravel a good vacuuming. You DO NOT just want to go in there & start digging the nozzle into the gravel without skimming the surface first, all you'll be doing is burying a lot of dead cysts & protozoa deeper into the gravel. Just mind the areas that you know have heavy root growth & don't vac as deeply in those spots & you should be fine.

Since you're not doing any WCs during treatment I would do a bigger than usual WC once treatment is over, at least 50% but I'd say 75% is preferable.

And you're welcome for the advice. I'm glad that it's been helpful & I know what you mean about being reassured. Whenever I come a across a new dilemma or problem in the hobby it's nice to be reassured by others who have experience with my particular problem. I don't at all mind sharing whatever little I do know. The whole point of these forums is info sharing

& it's a great thing indeed, I'm always learning something new!

karin · Jun 12, 2011

You can take this or leave it.
First how big is the pleco in the pciture? Is that an incredible zoom? Ich looks like fine grain sand and while the picture is great, the size of the spots look un-ich like. But I also can't think of anything else it could be.
Second, I used the organic Ich Attack by Kordon and found it to be useless. I switched to a a malachite green/formalin medication and dosed a full strength and my plecos did fine as did my shrimp. I followed the dosing of the site in my signature.
Finally the second shot of the white grains in your tank, looks like nerite snail eggs to me.

If I were you I would raise the temps to 30C, lower water to increase aeration (or add an airstone), dose real medication, full strength, for fourteen days. But I would watch the pleco, something seems a bit off with those white spots.

Good luck.

lyolya · Jun 13, 2011

karin said:
You can take this or leave it.
First how big is the pleco in the pciture? Is that an incredible zoom? Ich looks like fine grain sand and while the picture is great, the size of the spots look un-ich like. But I also can't think of anything else it could be.
Second, I used the organic Ich Attack by Kordon and found it to be useless. I switched to a a malachite green/formalin medication and dosed a full strength and my plecos did fine as did my shrimp. I followed the dosing of the site in my signature.
Finally the second shot of the white grains in your tank, looks like nerite snail eggs to me.

If I were you I would raise the temps to 30C, lower water to increase aeration (or add an airstone), dose real medication, full strength, for fourteen days. But I would watch the pleco, something seems a bit off with those white spots.

Good luck.

Karin, the pleco is actually maybe 2.5, 3 inches and the spots are kinda white. especially today when i looked i got painfully shocked to be honest because the pleco was just covveered with spots.. this time around i can actually see some volume to the spots, so they do look like cysts. how can he get sooo much covered with spots when im using medication... my other fish Still show no signs of spots, which is a bit weird too. but i am starting to lean over maybe trying some other medication because i actually increased the dosage 2x and 1.5 days later he's even more covered in those little suckers!

anyway, i think i'm gonna go to my fish store tomorrow morning and see if there is a stronger but more or less forgiving med.. bc ur right, even though other fish don't seem to get it, my pleco looks like he's suffering.

do you think the snail would survive the stronger medication? and also, if you think these are its' eggs, can this even be possible considering that i just have one snail? i actually found some of those white things in the little cracks of my rocks too. are they gonna be fertile? will fish eat them?

thank you for your input!!!!

lyolya · Jun 13, 2011

AvidD said:
lyolya said:

AvidD, that's some great info, but i actually have gravel! it's kinda brownish and is supposed to be super porous for the plants. it's mixed with some regular gravel, so i actually have a pretty thick bed. for my corys i have a sand pool, but to be honest they don't spend too much time in there and their barbels are growing out great from the stumps that i got them with in the store. anyway, i guess i'll just vacuum top to mid levels of my gravel and hopefully most of the dead suckers will be gone. u think that's good?

btw, thank u again for all of ur advice, it's been really helpful and reassuring that i'm doing the right thing!

Click to expand...

DOH! You did say gravel lol. I just assumed sand (fluorite) because a lot of people always have questions on how best to clean their sand bottom tanks, my mistake!

OK for the gravel, since you are not doing any water changes or maintenance to the tank until after you're done with treatment then it should remain pretty much undisturbed. That means that a lot of the cysts & dead protozoa will be mostly on the surface of the gravel. I suggest that you first run the siphon tube (siphoned of course but without the gravel vac nozzle attached) over the surface of the gravel, do it a few times (at least 2x maybe 3x or however many times you like) to ensure you get as much of it up as possible. After you have thoroughly "scoured" the surface then you can attach the gravel vac nozzle & give the gravel a good vacuuming. You DO NOT just want to go in there & start digging the nozzle into the gravel without skimming the surface first, all you'll be doing is burying a lot of dead cysts & protozoa deeper into the gravel. Just mind the areas that you know have heavy root growth & don't vac as deeply in those spots & you should be fine.

Since you're not doing any WCs during treatment I would do a bigger than usual WC once treatment is over, at least 50% but I'd say 75% is preferable.

And you're welcome for the advice. I'm glad that it's been helpful & I know what you mean about being reassured. Whenever I come a across a new dilemma or problem in the hobby it's nice to be reassured by others who have experience with my particular problem. I don't at all mind sharing whatever little I do know. The whole point of these forums is info sharing & it's a great thing indeed, I'm always learning something new!

AvidD, if you read one post above u'll see the update for the situation

this is sooo frustrating!!! and i think he was the one to bring the ick in the tank in the first place too

i'm glad other fish don't seem to be suffering, at least as much as him, but this is sad

if i do decide to go for the stronger medication tomorrow (which i think i will to be honest) i think i will use your tips to vacuum the gravel (bc most likely ill have to get rid of this medication medication first, right?)

and yes, i am too very grateful for this forum and all of the nice people like you who try to help my poor situation!

karin · Jun 13, 2011

Okay first, yes one snail can lay eggs and if it is a nerite snail, they are inert eggs anyway. They need brackish water to actually hatch eggs. Actually I find them to be a pain because they are hard to get off of things. I would take your snail out if you are doing real medications.

I say real, because that Kordon herbal stuff I found to be useless. I would do a big water change, like 80% and don't worry about adding carbon to get rid of the rest. Vacuum as usual but don't worry a lot about it. I had ich and a good medication will take care of all phases if you follow the direction and treat the full dose for the full duration. Again, see the link in my signature. Don't mess with more herbal remedies.

Now. The one thing, is the look of that pleco. I don't know if it is the maginification but it just doesn't quite look like ich. I would repost that photo with a simple, "Is this Ich or something else" in the Tropical Discussion Section and the Pleco sections. I would just want some more opinions from some experts who are out there. It could be lice but that doesn't look quite right either. That is my only concern. When you look at your pleco, does he look like he is covered with salt grains? If so it is ich.

Good luck. The real meds are not that bad and malachite green/formalin did not stain my tank or anything else.

lyolya · Jun 13, 2011

karin said:
Okay first, yes one snail can lay eggs and if it is a nerite snail, they are inert eggs anyway. They need brackish water to actually hatch eggs. Actually I find them to be a pain because they are hard to get off of things. I would take your snail out if you are doing real medications.

I say real, because that Kordon herbal stuff I found to be useless. I would do a big water change, like 80% and don't worry about adding carbon to get rid of the rest. Vacuum as usual but don't worry a lot about it. I had ich and a good medication will take care of all phases if you follow the direction and treat the full dose for the full duration. Again, see the link in my signature. Don't mess with more herbal remedies.

Now. The one thing, is the look of that pleco. I don't know if it is the maginification but it just doesn't quite look like ich. I would repost that photo with a simple, "Is this Ich or something else" in the Tropical Discussion Section and the Pleco sections. I would just want some more opinions from some experts who are out there. It could be lice but that doesn't look quite right either. That is my only concern. When you look at your pleco, does he look like he is covered with salt grains? If so it is ich.

Good luck. The real meds are not that bad and malachite green/formalin did not stain my tank or anything else.

here is how he really looks, i took a picture earlier in the morning. i think it's definitely ick, wouldn't you agree? and yes, it does look to me like he's covered with salt grains. it didn't look too much like it at first, but now i think it's more identifiable.

also, where would i put the snail?.. i really have no place for it.. i'm cycling another tank, but i do not want to think about even a chance of introducing the disease to that aquarium.. plus it got a bunch of nitritres.. and a white cloud that i'm thinking of taking back.. as it didn't want to eat from the first moment i put it there... and would just spit the food out.. but it looks really sunken/thin and hungry.. it was the last one from the store.. and i never seen him poop.. and i tried feeding everything.. but today it ate a little.. so now i don't know what to do with it.. but that's besides the point. where would i put the snail?

thank you for your help again!

PS: doesn't he look awful?

poor guy

karin · Jun 13, 2011

Humm... could you ask the store to just hold the snail for a bit? You could try him in a jar if you can keep him relatively warm and do water changes. I don't think snails have a big bioload.

Yeah, looks like ich.

lyolya · Jun 13, 2011

karin said:
Humm... could you ask the store to just hold the snail for a bit? You could try him in a jar if you can keep him relatively warm and do water changes. I don't think snails have a big bioload.

Yeah, looks like ich.

wouldn't the snail also have ick? and even if i put him in a jar.. which.. hmm i can i guess bc i have a tiny heater and i actually have a tiny sponge filter that doesnt have bacteria, but i only used it for a couple of days, so it should be fine w carbon and all.. but would i add water from the sick tank?.. but then wouldn't that mean i'll have ick in the snail jar?.. and on snail? that i could reintroduce when the tank is done with medication and i put the snail back in?

and if i put new water, wouldn't that cause nitrite/nitrate spike? and i would have to feed teh snail something too right? like algea wafers?

or should i also treat the snail, but in tiny doses?

sorry for an array of questions, i just have trouble seeing how will this work

AvidD · Jun 14, 2011

Iyola, I empathize with your situation, it can be frustrating but unfortunately dealing with diseases is part of the hobby. All you can do is to try & identify the problem as best as you can & then treat it accordingly. Hang in there.

With that said I would take Karin's advice about taking another pic (a better one) of your pleco & posting it again with an unpresuming title like "please help identify this condition/disease". That way you're more likely to get unbiased diagnoses about what it is you are seeing on your pleco.

Can't speak for the Kordon's Ich-Attack, like I said I never used it, but I've heard positive things from those that have. I've used "real" meds like Aquari-sol & QuICK Cure according to the instructions & they worked but with some negative side effects. My tetras didn't respond too great to it & I did get staining on my airline tubing & silicone sealant (but I was using it in a smallish tank (29g) with no plants & I wonder if tank size (concentration) & whether or not it's planted (absorption) contributes to the staining & if it does then how so exactly. But don't let that stop you from using them because they do work & you might not experience the same negative side effects.

I've also used salt with much better results IMHO. If you ever choose to go that route 1 - 2 teaspoons per gallon is what you'll need. Start off with 1 teaspoon per gallon, if you don't see your fish reacting to the salt negatively then you can up the dose to 2 teaspoons per gallon. Don't just add the salt in, get a bucket, fill it up with water, add the appropriate amount of salt, add an air stone to it & let it aerate for a few hours. After it's done aerating, slowly add the salted water to the tank a few portions at a time until it has all been added to the tank. If you perform a WC during treatment just make sure to add back in whatever you took out (e.g. remove 3g of water = add back 3 - 6 teaspoons of salt). That's it in a nutshell.

As for the Nerite snail eggs, I've never kept Nerite snails but after Karin's suggestion of what those spots might be I googled some pics of their eggs they look really similar to the white spots in the pics you posted. I have read before that their eggs will not hatch in fresh water so you don't have to mind them.

AvidD · Jun 14, 2011

lyolya said:
wouldn't the snail also have ick? and even if i put him in a jar.. which.. hmm i can i guess bc i have a tiny heater and i actually have a tiny sponge filter that doesnt have bacteria, but i only used it for a couple of days, so it should be fine w carbon and all.. but would i add water from the sick tank?.. but then wouldn't that mean i'll have ick in the snail jar?.. and on snail? that i could reintroduce when the tank is done with medication and i put the snail back in?

and if i put new water, wouldn't that cause nitrite/nitrate spike? and i would have to feed teh snail something too right? like algea wafers?

or should i also treat the snail, but in tiny doses?

sorry for an array of questions, i just have trouble seeing how will this work

I'm not sure how Ich affects inverts. I know that dwarf shrimp like cherry shrimp, bumble bee shrimp etc, are not affected by it, but I'm not too sure about snails. You'll have to do a bit of research on that.

Like Karin said, snails don't have a big bioload so if you got a jar, filled it up with clean water & added some dechlorinator to it, your snail should be fine. You could even split your air feed with some airline tubing & a T-valve & throw an airstone in the jar, but it'll probably be fine without it.

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Treating Tank For Ich But Now Doubt If It's Ich At All

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