Tpn+ Overdosing
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jameshughes1989
Fish Addict
I have been looking into dry salt dosing as it is meant to be cheaper but I havent got a clue where to start. I looked at the guide on ukaps but got mega confused. You got any input for us newbies? 
RadaR
The things we do for our fish..
I have been looking into dry salt dosing as it is meant to be cheaper but I havent got a clue where to start. I looked at the guide on ukaps but got mega confused. You got any input for us newbies?
Clive's explanation on UKAPS is the best I know. Perhaps try reading it over and over.
The article on TFF is very good too.
And James' website
jameshughes1989
Fish Addict
Hey thanks, Ive never seen that article on TFF. That looks way easier. I might just have a pop at that in the future!
OP
OP
angelfishguy
Fish Addict
If you had well over 150W of light and CO2 addition then yes. Dry salts sound a lot better now don't theySo much cheaper and cost effective on larger tanks.
it has 2 54wtHO t5s so thats 108watts,
i dont have c02 cause DIY leads to algea everywhere for me and dont have the money for FE setup..
we have all the dry ferts but using up the last of the TPN+..
so is it still 21mls?
another question is with the dry ferts we are unsure of what water to use when mixing it and where to get it
RadaR
The things we do for our fish..
You're not experiencing any CO2 related algae?
You don't need to mix it with water. You can dose the salts straight into the tank with measuring spoons.
Roughly you'd be dosing
1 1/2 tsp KNO3
1/2 tsp KH2PO4
1/2 tsp traces
If you do want to mix up batches then you can use tap water or RO water.
These are nifty for storing made up batches
You don't need to mix it with water. You can dose the salts straight into the tank with measuring spoons.
Roughly you'd be dosing
1 1/2 tsp KNO3
1/2 tsp KH2PO4
1/2 tsp traces
If you do want to mix up batches then you can use tap water or RO water.
These are nifty for storing made up batches
OP
OP
angelfishguy
Fish Addict
RadaR
The things we do for our fish..
Algae that crops up when CO2 is too low or unstable.
Click on the link in my sig "James' Algae guide" and look at the algaes that mentions CO2 as an important factor.
Click on the link in my sig "James' Algae guide" and look at the algaes that mentions CO2 as an important factor.
OP
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angelfishguy
Fish Addict
so the ones i think we sometimes have problems are
bba
bga
staghorn
and
thread algea
but they were when using diy co2 and not monitioring the c02 levels.
we moved house so totaly stripped the tank down and its been running for about 2 weeks now
diatoms are on the sand and i think bga is starting..
we are running 3 filters all are 1000ltr/ph and mature..
do you think the lighting is too much?
its barely over 1wpg
any help would be great
bba
bga
staghorn
and
thread algea
but they were when using diy co2 and not monitioring the c02 levels.
we moved house so totaly stripped the tank down and its been running for about 2 weeks now
diatoms are on the sand and i think bga is starting..
we are running 3 filters all are 1000ltr/ph and mature..
do you think the lighting is too much?
its barely over 1wpg
any help would be great
RadaR
The things we do for our fish..
Those are all CO2 related except BGA.
But with regards to your recent algae.....
Despite keeping the 3 mature filters, moving house and stripping down the tank would have removed quite a bit of beneficial bacteria. The BGA and diatoms suggests levels of ammonia. They may not register on a test kit, but they are there. Harmless to fish ofcourse at such low levels but can trigger algae (or in this case cyanobacteria) non the less. Increased water changes will help keep the ammonia concentrations down until a large plant bio-mass is established. Make sure the fitlers are working together in such a way that complete circulation is created so as to eliminate deadspots (BGA loves deadspots).
But with regards to your recent algae.....
Despite keeping the 3 mature filters, moving house and stripping down the tank would have removed quite a bit of beneficial bacteria. The BGA and diatoms suggests levels of ammonia. They may not register on a test kit, but they are there. Harmless to fish ofcourse at such low levels but can trigger algae (or in this case cyanobacteria) non the less. Increased water changes will help keep the ammonia concentrations down until a large plant bio-mass is established. Make sure the fitlers are working together in such a way that complete circulation is created so as to eliminate deadspots (BGA loves deadspots).
OP
OP
angelfishguy
Fish Addict
ah thanks a million for your help..
ill try get pictures up to show you some of the algea later and im sure ill bother you for more help lol
OP
OP
angelfishguy
Fish Addict
ok so heres the tank and some of the problems starting again
tank as it is now
diatoms and bga starting
tank as it is now
ok so heres the tank and some of the problems starting again
tank as it is now
diatoms and bga starting
edit, sorry didn't see the second pic
I can also see 'poo', which is gonna produce ammonia, which in hand will give you your algae, you need to get mor flow in the corners. Have you thought about getting a Koralia?
I can also see 'poo', which is gonna produce ammonia, which in hand will give you your algae, you need to get mor flow in the corners. Have you thought about getting a Koralia?
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angelfishguy
Fish Addict
.
some algea from old setup
.
and when the bga was bad before the move
ah i had to upload them all seperatly. lol
yeah was thinking about getting one and was also thinking about re-aranging the filters better but 2 of the 3 are internal so it probably look crap lol
some algea from old setup
.
and when the bga was bad before the move
ah i had to upload them all seperatly. lol
yeah was thinking about getting one and was also thinking about re-aranging the filters better but 2 of the 3 are internal so it probably look crap lol
I really think this is flow related, adding 1 or 2 Koralias would make a big difference imo.
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