Building DIY Light Canopy

I'm currently building a 10 gallon striplight with CFs and a PVC rain gutter. I'll elaborate on it when it's done... but so far it's costing about $30. 52 watts.

I just replaced the other 3 bulbs with the daylight compacts. It looks much brighter now. New growth is coming along nicely...

Colin

I am thinking about creating a light canopy this way, but I was wondering if there are any disadvantages to using the cp spirals as apposed to regular flourescent or other compact flourescent fixtures other than possibly heat?

I am a student so I am looking for the cheapest way possible, and this seems like it so far

thanks
Shawn

Also, would using the spiral CF from home depot be of any disadvantage over using the ones for $20 at the lfs?

thanks again
Shawn

Heat is the biggest disadvantage to the CF's, but as I stated with mine, by leaving the top completely uncovered and allowing the heat to freely rise out, it also makes a really cool room accent lamp provided the lights CF's are at least 6" below the open-top so they don't blind people. I can see if I can get a pic tonight with my new digi. If you want to really fight the heat and have the top covered, PC case fans can easily be rigged up. I would think two would suffice if placed with the intake in the lower left corner and outake in the upper right corner of the back panel. If you wanted to go with 3 fans, I'd suggest going for 2 outake and 1 intake.

Regarding the home depot bulbs, those are where all mine are from. I use the Philips 23W Daylight Spiral CF from home depot. Regarding disadvantages of these bulbs, yes (kind of), there is one I can think of. When you buy a CF from the local fish store that is labeled for aquarium plants, you are going to pay more for the same wattage for a couple benefits. The LFS CF should be a sepctrum(s) best suited for plant growth. The packaging will also (in most cases) tell you if it's a 6500K, 5000K, 3500K, etc.. (5500K-6500K being best for plants). Those are the main advantages I can think of for spending more for the LFS CF. I feel mostly your paying for packaging and advertising, but that's just my oppinion.

Now, for the bulbs you can get cheap at Home depot, some are better than others. The bad news is the better ones are a fair bit more expensive than the less beneficial CF's. The good news is it is still much cheaper than buying CF's from the LFS. Problem with the good and bad at the depot is none (that I have seen) give you the light temp (3500K, 6500K). If you buy plain old CF's, either labeled as 'soft white' or not specifying at all, it is usually a much lower temp rating, something like 3500K I believe. I originally tried 138W of these (6x23W) and they made everything look yellow or golden. It looked cool, but I knew it wasn't the best spectrum for the plants. It seemed to work for the plants fine enough (compared to my old setup at least), but I eventually saw those daylight CF's at home Depot and bought 6 of them. They are more expensive than the soft-white (daylight=$10ea, soft white=$17 for 3 OR $6ea(CAD)), but they give off the same white light as my previous PowerGlo's. The 20W Powerglo's cost me $20ea and I could fit a max of 3 for 60W. With CPF's being so small and efficient, I think they are a better and more economical choice for planted tank lovers with tight pockets (like me). What size tank are you looking to do this for? Let me know the capacity and dimensions and I'll let you know what I tink would work well for you, your plants, and your pocket.

Colin

I have a standard 20 gal tank. The dimensions are 12.5 X 24.5 outside. I have a HOB filter and a heater on the back as welll

Shawn

If you are planning on doing anything like mine, i would strongly suggest (if you haven't already) buying a glass cover that fits the inner lip of your aquarium nicely while still leaving enough room for your filter and everything. I think all LPS sell these.

With that you could build one with a 3-Light bathroom striplight. If you use 3 of the daylight 23W Spiral CPF you'd have 69W or 3.45 Watts per gallon. That would be quite sufficient to grow almost any plant. I'd say if you can get ahold of one 42W Daylight CPF for the center bulb, you could grow anything with CO2 added. You'd then have 88W, or 4.4WPG.

If you are planning on upgrading your lighting past 2 WPG, CO2 will really help you see the difference in plant growth and health. You can make your own CO2 system, but this is one area where I just spent the cash on the Nutrafin Natural CO2 System, and I'd do it again. If you do decide to make your own CO2 system (which many here have successfully done, I haven't tried it....yet) I would still recommend at least buying the bubble diffuser.

Thanks a tonne for all of the help. I think that I am going to try this, but I will do some tweaks. Whenever I do it I will be sure to post some pics to show you guys how it turned out

Thanks
Shawn

I more quick question, roughly what are the dimensions of the lightstrips with the bulbs installed? I am trying to make up a shop plan, but need that to help me out a bit

Thanks again
Shawn

Nice prices here: http/www.goodmart.com/products/bulb_comp...twist_shape.htm

I've been using CF's in my custom (homemade) hood for 8 years now and haven't had any heat issues at all but do need to get the air moving through it better. I was thinking of using a PC cooling fan but the ones I have looked at were all DC. What kinds of fans are others using? My hood is 48" long and kind of open on one end to handle cables and hoses and uses 2 60 watt daylight CF's. (It is being used as a room divider.)

jschlosser said:

I've been using CF's in my custom (homemade) hood for 8 years now and haven't had any heat issues at all but do need to get the air moving through it better. I was thinking of using a PC cooling fan but the ones I have looked at were all DC. What kinds of fans are others using? My hood is 48" long and kind of open on one end to handle cables and hoses and uses 2 60 watt daylight CF's. (It is being used as a room divider.)

Click to expand...

Hi jschlosser. Welcome to the forum. Nice to see you dug up an old thread 2004. You are best putting up your own to get some answers.

I need to refurbish mine after 8 years, but it still works beautifully and I haven't even had a single bulb burn out. I built a frame of 1x2 and 2x2 stock enclosing one end flush with the outside, and recessing the end cap of the other end 8" so that I can run hoses and wiring into it from there. The whole is covered with very light-weight paneling that I covered in stucco-patterned vinyl paper and the whole shooting match is smothered in 4-5 coats of oil-based white enamel.

The recessed end is against a wall where I have a shelf for things like a power strip and light timer. I put in standard household ceramic bulb holders (more choices in bulbs) on either end, running the wiring from the far end along the top back corner and back over to the recessed end. All is taped and taped and taped some more and smothered in marine waterproofing. The interior is lined in paper-backed aluminum foil, covering the return wires from the light at the far end. (First time I tried mylar - don't repeat my mistake!) Wiring is on a timer so no switch is needed.

I placed three strips of structural polycarbonate across the tank spanning the two glass lips on the front and rear of the tank. The hood rests on those. Inside the hood is a hinged piece of plexiglas that tips down at the hinge so that any splashing from below drains right back down.

Here is a picture of the interior.